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Dragonhawk1066

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About Dragonhawk1066

  • Birthday 10/15/1966

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24,1/25,1/16

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    C.M. Gordon

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  • Location
    Mid-Michigan
  • Full Name
    Craig Gordon

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Dragonhawk1066's Achievements

MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. Very well done! All three look great together!
  2. I used to just paint and clear a bunch of bodies around September and October to get me through the winter months. I mostly use water-based paints through my airbrush now, so I can paint year round. I have one of those small portable booths in my spare bedroom and just crack the window for the vent tube whenever I paint. It gets a little chilly, like maybe down to 60 degrees if I paint a lot, especially if it's windy, but it's certainly doable for an hour or two.
  3. Windshield washer fluid(plain blue) works fine, but I have discovered from a Facebook Group a thinner solution that is outstanding for craft paints. It is 3 parts distilled water, 1 part 91% isopropyl alcohol( I'm venturing a guess that the 70% will work fine too, I just haven't tried it yet) and 4-5 drops of glycerin as a flow improver per 8 ounce batch. The glycerin is super slick, so not much is needed. If flaws need to be sanded, it should be done lightly and carefully and will almost certainly need to be re-touched with paint. Adhesion is pretty good, and I do strongly suggest a primer coat first. I have had little to no problems with masking over craft paints. I have sprayed Testors Wet Look Clear, Tamiya TS-13, and Krylon Short Cuts Clear over craft paints with no problems at all. Just start with a light coat or two first before the heavier wetter coats. Practicing/testing any of these questions on a test body and/or parts will give you a really good indication of how craft paints will work/react to your building style. I mainly use craft paints and Createx anymore and love them, there's just a bit of a learning curve. They're cheap, easy to use and clean, have no odor, and are available in about a million colors, lol.
  4. I put primer on everything that gets painted, no matter what paint I plan on using. I mostly use water-based acrylics like Createx, craft paints, and Tamiya Acrylics, but I do still use Tamiya and Testors spray paints from time to time.
  5. It's a pretty nice kit that would look good in any color.
  6. Looks pretty sharp!
  7. Outstanding! Great effects on the color-shift paint!
  8. It looks fantastic, regardless of the inaccuracies!! The color is fantastic as well!
  9. I've got a top ten list of what I'd like to see kitted. 1970-1972 Olds Cutlass Supreme--Formal Roof based on the Revell '72 convertible, not the new '71 442. 1974-1976 Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am--Updated versions. 1974-1976 Chevy Camaro/Z28--Updated versions. 1973-1975 Chevy Chevelle/Malibu/Laguna--Stock versions. 1985-1989 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z--Updated versions. 1970 Mercury Cyclone Spoiler. 1979-1981 Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am--A Better Designed Kit, LOL. 1971-1972 Chevy Chevelle/Malibu--A Better Designed Kit. 1970-1972 Pontiac Lemans/GTO--A Better Designed Kit. 2000-2005 Chevy Monte Carlo SS--Factory Stock Version.
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