Fantom

Just about my favorite kit as a kid... I built and destroyed many. I was lucky to get an unbuilt kit a few years ago and built it the way it should be....Great job on this one!!!

Very nice...I love those Eldon kits

First of all, I have no ties to this company, this was an absolute random purchase from eBay. I am usually pretty nervous about buying resin from unknown casters on EBay, but I took a chance on this Model A body. The listing stated that made a few improvements on the original Revell body , The roof opening was extended further forward like full size car body. The roof panels was then extended and a new lip was made to hold it in place. New roof seams where added to the rear of the roof as seen in reference photos. The tail pan area was filled in where the kit body had custom tail light recesses. The firewall was modified with more details around the edge to copy whats on the full scale bodies. Separate inner wheel well panels where custom made with '30 style raised ribs.I don’t have an original Revell body to compare it to but looks good to me. The casting is very thin and clean and I have done no cleanup whatsoever in these pics. I’m very happy with the quality here and will definitely order from them again.Here is the website Action-modeler.com Highly recommended

What kit has the best Chevy 409? Specifically with some performance parts , headers..chrome parts etc... thanks

For larger decals my process is as follows: soak the decal for only a few minutes..remove from water and let sit for a few more... with a flat SOFT brush, wet the area the decal will lay with plain water...by now the decal should be ready to slide into place, after applying the decal use the same brush to move it into place starting in the center, smooth the excess water out , this will also help settle the decal, once you have it exactly where you want it , allow it to dry for 10 to 15 minutes,more if necessary, you need to have the decal dry enough to begin to stick to the model ... at this point I begin applying the solvent to no more than 50% of the decal, 30% is better....allow it work... you should see some wrinkles where you applied the solvent...do not attempt to smooth those...as that solvent dries it will smooth itself back out...after 20-30 minutes repeat with the remaining decal sticking with 30 to 50 % of the decal...fine engraved detail areas such as door seems and raised detail may need several applications of solvent...the main idea is to go slow with the solvent and to not apply it to the entire decal all at once. This works for me , good luck

Recently won this on E-bay. I’ve looked for a complete car for a long time that was not crazy expensive.This one is complete except for the foot pedal and open chute,and a couple small parts, enough to build a complete car . If your not familiar, it’s a 1:12 scale Mean Maverick funny car from Monogram, circa early 70s. The electric motor was supposed to raise and lower the body. It’s actually in really nice shape, no major glue mistakes. My plan is rebuild, add some detail, and a nice paint job. I’m hoping Whoopie Kat decals opens back up so I can get a set of replacement decals.

Does anyone know the status of whoopie kat decal? I’d like to place an order but sure says they are temporarily shut down.

Thanks...that’s what I wanted hear...I’m interested in the flake for a large scale project

That’s exactly what I was hoping for...input as to how it lays down...flake size...etc...thank you

Does anyone have any experience with Roth metal flake...specifically the rattle bombs? I’m considering using them on an upcoming large scale project, and am curious about them. Are they laquer? Quality? Thanks in advance https://rothmetalflake.com/collections/rattle-bombs

Please tell us about that air filter! Awsome work!!

Does anyone have any experience with this printers parts? Quality???

Does anyone else find it ironic that the Hurst car has a column shift?

Thank you very much, it will definitely help me make a decision.

That would be awesome thank you