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Andrew D the Jolly Roger

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Everything posted by Andrew D the Jolly Roger

  1. Very very nice! And ditto on the color, that's a winner!
  2. Amazing to think they really used to build cars like this; very nicely done!
  3. "Classic" is the word that keeps coming to mind here. Well done!
  4. Thank you all for the kind comments! Harry, I had someone else asking about the wiring over in the build thread; if you look at the currently-final post in the build thread, I put a few photos and a detailed explanation of the wiring I source and keep on hand for this. Here's the link: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/161874-daisy-dukes-plymouth-doh/page/3/
  5. Hey there Brian, Looks good, fascinating idea of the Viper engine in there! Looks like a good fit, at least at a glance, although I'm no expert; aircraft are my usual specialty, hence all the probably-basic automotive questions I tend to pose here. As far as the wire, yes, I keep a stock of multiple sizes of insulated wire; 3 basic sizes, although I do have larger ones for the larger hoses. I also use metal wire for brake/fuel lines. Here's the $0.50 tour of the main insulated wires: Here we see the three basic sizes in three piles. Ultra-fine on the left, medium in the middle, and on the right is the thickest of the three (spark plug wire guage). Here's the closeup of the ultra-fine. It's .0125 diameter, and I usually get it from Ebay dealers. I keep a supply of white, red, blue and black. Again, I also keep some larger stuff on hand for the heaviest of the lines. Second, the mid-guage, size .016. Also found with Ebay dealers, although sometimes with some of the auto aftermarket dealers. Finally the .020, normally for spark plug wiring but useful for many other things. I keep many colors of this as well, including several shades of gray (sometimes just getting the same guage from different manufacturers provides options of different grays, which can make a build seem more varied and "interesting".) Google images is both my friend and enemy in researching engines; can't ever find two matching engine bays for the same year/make/model, so I just pick the features that look most interesting and try to copy, all the while sifting through as many pics of the bays and engines as I can. Hope this helps!
  6. Thank you all! I absolutely could not have done this without y'all's expertise, advice and guidance! Here's the final product:
  7. Just to clarify: YES, they used a '74 Roadrunner which appeared in 5 of the first 9 episodes of The Dukes of Hazzard, then beginning with episode 11 they switched to a '71 Satellite Sebring in a Roadrunner paint scheme, hoping nobody would notice. Some prefer the '74; personally I prefer the '71, finding it much sleeker and meaner looking with the wraparound bumper/grill assembly. Base kit is the Revell/Monogram '71 Plymouth GTX. Modifications include: -Replacement hood -Smaller-block engine (from 71 Duster) -Completely rebuilt & boosted rear suspension -Replacement tires -Wheel hubs from '77 Ford van Additionally, all GTX logos were removed (not easy on the grill); headlights made from sanded/polished acrylic gemstones; engine bay heavily wired and detailed; scratchbuilt steering wheel, CB radio and antenna; paint is Plymouth Yellow Blaze. Build thread is here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/161874-daisy-dukes-plymouth-doh/
  8. I think I forgot to mention the wheel hubs. The kit wheels are totally wrong; you good folks in here guided me toward the wheel hubs from the AMT 77 Ford van, and then someone was kind enough to send me a set which he was not going to use (thanks again Lee! ). Once primed and chromed, they were perfect! They also almost perfectly fit the aftermarket tires which I had ordered (see earlier post June 2). Absolutely perfect! ONE FINAL DETAIL: the CB antenna. In the episode "The Meeting," there is a perfect closeup view of it, which I used as reference to scratch-build mine. Base was carved from two sections of plastic, and the aerial was made from metal guitar string (high "E"). And, God-willing, she's done! Finished pics to be posted shortly.
  9. Thanks Rusty and Carl! Brian, thank you also for the kind words; some really neat stuff you've got going on with your build! I almost opened up the grill the same way, something I did with some of the other members of my Hazzard fleet, but in the end decided against it. Yours came out well! As far as the valance, I can say the final result of blending them into the body really makes a huge difference, at least to my eyes, especially the front one. Just changes the entire effect. Unfortunately you can't put both on and blend them before adding the chassis; I found that out the hard way with a Charger. So I did the front one first, then later in final assembly added the rear one and then blended/painted it to hide the bodywork. Looking forward to your result! 😎
  10. Thank you! Almost there. Just using the Daisy's Car kit decals from the MPC kit for the roof-section of the stripe, although the two end sections need to be removed. Daisy's car was in constant use on the country roads and so needs to have a generous amount of Hazzard county road dust. Just speaking for myself, I don't believe in making showroom-fresh vehicles with immaculate chassis and wheel wells to portray actively used vehicles. The overall dusting is a shade called Armor Sand, with some Military Earth Brown right behind the wheels and on the bottom of the fenders just behind the wheels.
  11. Nice, glad you brought this back for those of us who missed it the first time (think there's a pun of some kind in there considering the subject....). Very nice detailing! Always better than just painting molded-on detail. Great craftsmanship!
  12. Thank you! Now for the really scary part: the pinstriping around the main stripe. In my research, I took special notice of how they did the real one around the door handle and at the very front. I've got plenty of straight-line fine decal striping, but the curves are a problem. Trying to paint those fine curves right alongside the large stripe AND make them look good is an awfully tall order. My experience (both successes and failures) tells me to go another route. I decided an ususual approach: cut away the pinstriping from the decals of MPC's Daisy's car, the very-different '74 Roadrunner, and cut the curves into pieces to match each little bit of the Satellite's stripe. Wasn't easy, nor was it fun at first, but it actually worked!
  13. Best color is "Chevy Orange Flame." It's over at scalefinishes, was absolutely perfect.
  14. And now the last daunting challenge, the stripe. To my knowledge no decals exist for this body type. I do have the decals from the MPC kit of Daisy's 74 Roadrunner, but this is a different body type with different contours, and the subtleties of the strip were very different between the two vehicles. I also noticed the first '71s they painted for this had stripes that didn't quite fit the countours of the new type, but by partway into the second season the paint crews seem to have mastered the marriage of '71 body style and stripe style. My solution: use the roof decals, the paint the thick stripe center along the sides, then use fine striping for the pinstriping. I used a photocopy of the roof decals from the MPC kit as reference to set up the masking for the side striping. Through this I saw the side square from each end would have to be cut off. The rest would work fine.
  15. Okay, back to business. Earlier I had gone to the trouble of cutting away the GTX emblem from the grill (since all such emblems were removed for all cars in the show), then priming/painting and re-chroming the bumper with Alclad. Next the chrome bumper was masked, and the grill and its surround was sprayed with enamel Steel, and a wash used for the grill's recesses. Then to make the headlights. I use acrylic gemstones because they're soft enough to have the facets sanded away to make it rounded, then polished. When finished with Future/Clear acrylic floor polish, they make very convincing light lenses, better than what comes with any kit. In this case I used 5mm gemstones for the headlights, and 3mm for the signal lights.
  16. I appreciate all this, I was about to invest in the wrong kit! Wondering if bare wheels (sans caps) are available in aftermarket....
  17. True! Although it's always nice to know the alternatives when they exist....😁😎
  18. Does it have everything I need (correct features) to build the subject above if I did a chop-job on it other than bumpers? Where could I source bumpers?
  19. Much needed info, thank you! Is the Revell 68 better than trying to kitbash the Revell 60's Bug (pic in original post) with interior parts from the convertible model?
  20. Wow, I noticed Adam-12 right away....that's the one that I'm drooling over, wishing.... Amazing stuff all around, though!
  21. Never knew that, that helps, thank you! So then which kit would best represent a 70-71?
  22. Glad to know, thank you! So, would a kitbash of that kit and a convertible interior be the only good approach? Or, is there another kit I should consider? 24th/25th only, I should add.
  23. Hey folks, Need to know what the best starting kit would be for my next possible DOH project, Hughie Hogg's VW beetle, styled after Boss Hogg's Cadillac complete with steer horns. Apparently it wasn't a stock Bug convertible, but a chop-job on a hard-top (see first pic). Also, it appears to have the later squared-type bumpers rather than the vintage totally-curvy style. Would the best starting kit be the Revell/Monogram "VW 60's Beetle" (see 2nd pic)? Seems to have the correct bumpers etc, and more interior than any Snap-kit. Thanks!
  24. Very very impressive; I've often seen the salt technique used on aircraft, particularly late-war Japanese planes whose paint was practically peeling off in sheets at that time. Very nicely done there!
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