bobss396

I thought I had seen a Revell '30 Ford there, I'll go back next week to look. I would at least grab a '36 Chevy modified kit at 40% off.

I would heat the paint, the plastic will cool off in a matter of seconds. I give my paint 5 to 10 minutes in hot tap water, no more than 105 F. I have heated paint in the dehydrator as well. Make sure that the glass has been washed with hot soapy water to get any mold release off it.

I know one dealer and when I see him next week I'll ask him. I still have a decent stash of trucks to fall back on. I think the last ones came out in 1995, I picked up a bunch at a close-out store around 2003 for less than $2.

I grew up close to Islip in NY and if the wind was right, as a kid I could hear them from my house. On some nights when the breeze came off the bay, we could smell the salt in the air after the races. I ran the last night at Islip in my Nova, finished 4th. This was in 1984. The only game in town now is Riverhead. The weekly modified shows have 2 modified divisions, mains draw maybe 10 cars per. I'll go for the tour shows, those still pull cars from all over. Support divisions are sparsely filled out too. Mainstays like Street Stocks have a bunch of "bye" weeks during the season. I look at the schedule carefully before I go.

Let me know if you want a set. I have them leftover from my build and they are in my decal stash box.

We had our club meeting last night and we went over finances, etc. Of course the show venue came up, we plan things out even this early in the year. This is the way to make sure things go smoothly. We have had the rec-center date saved since our first show there, the 2nd Saturday in November to it is easy to remember. We are going with a all-in-one registration fee that should make most entrants happy. We discussed trophy packages, vendor tables too. We are keeping the table fee the same and last year we did sell all of them. I may take 2 this year. It takes time to get the venue information out to the modeling community, the sooner you pick a place the more people will be attending.

Super slick, I like it. What did you do for the X pipe, is that a kit item? It really adds to the pro-street vibe.

I use 5-minute epoxy for most of my glass installation. Mix it up, wait 3 minutes and go for it, that way it is less runny. I tape the glass in place so it doesn't move while the epoxy sets up. I have had luck with masking off the rest of the car and using something ike Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf to do window chrome.

Thanks, MM Extreme Lacquer Bronze. The cans spray quite well and I went over it with their clear, the last ones I have done required no polishing. Good enough for a stock car.

I think that Hobby Lobby may have that kit, I will grab one soon. Iceman makes a couple of dropped front axles for the Revell '32 that will likely fit the '30. I have a long-stalled '32 Coupe that I chopped probably 10 years ago that I have to dig out.

I like that orange. I recently did a '32 coupe using a Black Gold orange (Nova Orange IIRC) that came out great. The Model Master Lacquer line has a great orange in it.

I used to have a screened porch off my kitchen that was 10' x 16'. It was old and drafty to say the least. This was around 2004 and I was doing a Craftsman truck and I planned on painting it with Tamiya metallic blue. As luck would have it, it was about 30 and snowing. Also snowing a little inside the porch, but I went for it. Lighting was poor, I had more light coming from the kitchen window than the porch light. I did the 1st coat, it was acceptable. Gave it 45 minutes in the dehydrator and went out for the 2nd coat, which I somehow managed to la down successfully.

Personally I would scuff it up to make sure the old finish is smooth, then give it a coat of primer. Followed by a top coat of choice.

Thanks. The weight on the Colorado title was 3460, at the NY DMV, the Witches of Eastwick vanished behind closed doors for about a 1/2 hour with the title. They came back and said it should weigh 3550 and the color of the car is white and gray. With the aluminum heads, intake, 4-speed and aluminum radiator I figure it should come in at closer to 3400 lbs. The engine builder estimated it at 425 HP. It is a pretty fast car.

I was at a show some years back and Revell was there with test shots of the '49 Mercury. I looked it over and told them, that they had screwed the pooch by not coming out with a '51 Mercury. They were not pleased with me. Granted it is a great kit that we needed. The AMT version still builds up well. I built my first one in 1963.

With all the great parts we now have, these are fun to build

1959 Ford Custom 300. The 223 6 is long gone. Now it has a 355 SBC that was in my Nova stock car. M20 Muncie 4 speed, 3.89 posi rear.

I changed the hood at the last minute to the one with the hole in it. I opened the hole to .687" on my mill.

The factory '41 to the '46-'48 post-war cars were quite similar in the 1:1 world. I would consider doing one. Now if someone would make up a 3D printed '42 grille...

I did a wheel alignment on a Grand Am back in my car fixing days. It was a '74 or '75 with the 455 H.O. and a 4-speed. Needless to say, the alignment required a longer-than-usual test ride before and after. It had the shaker scoop and was FAST.

I just made up a red sauce, 6-7 quarts worth and it came out great. I put in 4 large chicken thighs (browned first), a pound of hot sausage, 24 or so pre-made meat balls, a package of pork neck bones. Of course around 10 cloves of pressed garlic, one large onion grated, 2 peeled carrots to cut the acid, oregano and basil, bay leaves, a grated large jalapeno pepper, 4 anchovies chopped. 2 cans of tomato paste, 4 cans of crushed tomatoes. I brought some over to my girlfriend;s house for Sunday dinner, she made pasta and I picked up a loaf of bread on the way. I am freezing the bulk of it and using the rest this week. I need to pick up some mozzarella cheese, I have a Jones for shrimp parmesan. I have a set of little pyrex dishes I use for things like this.

VCG Resins makes a couple of nice 3D printed quick change rears that would work well on this kit.

Check out Iceman as well. I buy from him on eBay.

Thanks. This was my late-stage stumbling block last year. I HAD a radiator, painted up and I lost it, it will turn up. I have a box that I call "Future Modified" full of modified parts and sub assemblies. I picked out a radiator from that. I had split the radiator off from the coil-overs and needed another way to hang the radiator. I had to attach it to the "bridge" I made up between the coil-overs and the crossmember. It went together fairly easily and once painted it looked good.

I had bought out a lot of Duplicolor paints at a parts store that had changed hands at 99¢ per can. This was close to 20 years ago and I'm still using them. This formula was very forgiving, not like their current crop of blushing paints. I did a green 1940 Ford in November, I was working out of my finished basement then. It was COLD out... I'd go out into the stairwell, paint and go back inside, put the body right into the dehydrator.