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    Toronto, Canada
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    Bruce Pearce

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  1. Great subject, Pat! I have the full set of Cabriolet, Phaeton, and Madame X from Jo han of the '31 Caddys. All need to be rebuilt as well, as I first did them when I was about 12. The wire wheels are going to be hard to come by for me as well! Best of luck on them...
  2. Pat! You've completed so much since I checked in here last! It's looking really good as you tackle each problem one at a time. For the whitewalls, I hand paint them, but make sure that you use a water based acrylic paint. The oil based stuff goes gunky on the rubber and never dries. My comment with looking at the 1936 Ford kit was to check out how they changed a roadster to a coupe. The body is built so that the roof of the coupe incorporates the top of the cowl area as well, that way the entire windshield frame/cowl shape can be switched between roadster and coupe. It's too late for how you've cut it now, but I was referring to cutting the Ford roof off with the cowl top intact, and fitting the whole section to the Chevy body. You didn't show us how the cut through the roof insert went. If it is ruined, I would smooth it, then cut a piece of masking tape the right shape and paint it for the insert. The tape has the texture you're looking for. Excellent job so far. I like the Knee-Action that you built! For you 1934 Chevrolet lovers out there, here's I shot I took in Flint 2011 at the VCCA's 50th Anniversary meet. The yellow car is Mark Fullmer's Grandpa's car. There were 6 Master Cabriolet's at this meet. Likely never see six of them all together again!
  3. Hey Mark… Burt is a great guy! Tell him Bruce from the VCCA says hi! We have a picture of the hood ornament from his car that my wife took a couple of years ago in Flint hanging in our front hall...
  4. Hey Pat, Great to see you on the model cars forum as well! (Pat and I are both regulars over at vcca.org) If I were you, and was going to cut that roof, the place to shorten the length would be to cut at about the middle of the roof insert. You don't want to mess up any of the corners on the roof insert, or the corners of the windows. You're also going to have to put vent windows in too. An idea for getting the top to fit would be to look at how the 3 in 1 AMT '36 Ford is put together. It has an inter-changeable coupe roof/ roadster cowl that is cut along the same lines as what you are looking to do. The only problem is that you'll have to file down the metal doors. You only get one shot at getting that right! Another thing… measure the door and the gap behind the rear of the door and the rear fender. I think you'll find that the front edge of the door is in the right spot, and the rear edge has to be moved back. That may screw up your rear side window. That frame is different, not only because it is a standard, but also because it has the X member for an open car. Great job on getting the correct dimensions for your frame. That Danbury Mint model has extremely good details too. It may be easier to paint your real coupe to match it!
  5. Great idea! One of the main areas that people screw up when doing this to 1:1 cars is in the windshield header. The convertibles had a shorter windshield, so you may want to chop that sucker down a bit. Take the advice posted above about using the '51 Chevy for the top and interior parts, and you'll also get the correct door vent windows that you can measure how far to chop the windshield off at. Also, the top corners of the windshield frame are a little less rounded off towards the rear. The door vent window is curved on the coupe, but more triangular with a flat top on the convertible. Here's a pic of my '50 Chevy. The Olds is the same, but a 1piece windshield
  6. Great looking project! The Aussie cars were bodied by Holden, and they built many different bodied Chevys from '28-'52 that were not made elsewhere. Make sure you get a picture of the rear window of your buddy's car. I believe it should be a two piece split window...
  7. Charlie... The lights were from Ikea too. Out of the lighting section in the down stairs market place.
  8. The inner fenders and the firewall fit in with minimal trimming. Odd that I had to trim stuff considering the scales are supposed to be the opposite way, but that's what happened! The length was fine because they end at the rad, and on the '51 kit they extend in front of the rad right up to the back of the head lights.
  9. I'm using Billy Bookcases from Ikea as well. The more I build, the more times I have to go back for more glass shelves!
  10. I'm building a monogram '53 factory stock. One of the details I changed to make it look more stock is to ditch the inner fenders and firewall, and replace them with the ones from the AMT 1951 kit. I've got aways to go: this has been on the back burner...
  11. Hey Rick... I also found this early photo of the Wildcat. Check out the hubs. It looks like they don't turn, and act as a scoop for the brakes...
  12. Very nice job! It's not as easy of a conversion to make this kit into a convertible as you would think. I built one thinking it would only need using the '59 convertible's roof and windshield frame. It turns out you need the valence between the trunk and the rear window too. The trunks are different lengths, and the hard top's is not as flat as the convertible's. The rear seats are different as well.
  13. Incredible work! It's a beautiful car. Here's another view that I hope helps you out a little...
  14. At the VCCA's 100th Anniversary in Flint, The Sloan Museum's 1912 or 1913 (There is discussion about when it was built) was on display, As well as this 1914 Light Six... believed to be the only one in existence. I believe that of Classic Sixes, the only two known are the one in Flint and the Oldest Chevrolet, found in Alberta Canada. If you know of any others, Let me know
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