I will usually have several projects going on at the same time and will switch back and forth as the mood strikes me, or waiting for paint to dry or when I need a break because I've run into a problem. At some point in the process one model will tell me to focus solely on it and everything else will be put aside aside until that one model is finished. Hey doesn't everyone talk to their models, or swear at them, and have them communicate back, LOL.
I agree with you, the MB 500 is one of those designs that will never lose its looks. It looks as fresh today has when it came on the market and in the future it will just slowly settle into classic. The Tamiya kit is also a winner and goes together with few problems. Congrats on a job well done.
Live on the Canadian prairies where we have two weathers bitter icy cold or very hot. All other weather fits into the few days between these two cycles. I've had a large number of kits stored in an insulated but unheated attic for many years and also have a larger number of kits stored in an unheated wooden shed and have had no problems to speak of from either location. Keep them dry is the most important priority. I've had a couple of decal sheets fail but that may have just been age rather then the storage conditions. Over the years I've usually packed kits away into any large cardboard boes that I could find but now that large plastic totes have become so cheap I've begun to use them instead just as an additional safety precaution. When I win my first million dollar lottery I'll build a heated wharehouse that will allow me to go and dig through individual kits in comfort, if only.
I agree with your concerns. Beat belts & shoulder harness are something I look for in every finished model car and since they must be scratch built I take their presence as a sign of how much extra effort the builder was prepared to go. The crossed plastic ones from the AMT/MPC era were terrible,although I used them back then, and some models today have them engraved into the seats, but they really don't look right. I think the reason that they are not part of current kits is that for belts to look right they must be in scale and made of appropriate material and that makes them easier to scratchbuild then to manufacture in the kit factory. The last time I was in Hobby Lobby I picked up a couple of rolls of black crepe tape (they had three widths). In the past I've always just cut strips of tamiya tape and painted them but since most belts are black or dark grey I figured this crepe tape might is usefull. P.E. provides hardware and since I build a lot of sports cars, ie bucket seats, I'll make the receivers out of small blocks of plastic with the end painted red for the release button with another piece of plastic or stiff braided wire for the attachment piece to the floor. I do agree that the toughest part is doing the shoulder harness in a hardtop and getting it to attach to the B pillar or roof. Every model seems to present its own problems and solution for this task and it usually involves me having to get stubby fingers, tweezer or tiny stick through the side window and behind a seat to glue something in place. Since most modern shoulder/seat belts hang down to the floor between seat and inner door when not in use I'll often omit the P.E. where it can't be seen. Slightly off topic but I'll often add partially rolled down windows in my models. In the end these little extra things add to the final appearance of the model.
That kit is a challenge to build but with time and patience a very nice result can be achieved as you have clearly done. I did one a few years ago but did it up as the red car in the movie, It Started With a Kiss and I still have one more of these kits stashed away which I'll use to build the show car Futura in its Blue Frost colour scheme. My only complaint is that I wish they'd have done it in 1/25 scale but I realize the kit came from the era of the box scale kits. It would be nice to wish for one in standard scale but that is not likely to happen but at least we can build this show car which is more that we can say for most of the concept cars. Whether its the original colour or not I like how it looks in this light metallic blue. Well done.
Ahhh.......a 355 my favorite Ferrari, the other one is nice too but a 355 and in my favorite colour. All kidding aside these are both very nice looking models that any modeller should be proud to display on their sports car shelf.
In discussion with several people about the new C7 I've argued that it looks best in dark colours and here is proof, in miniature. You've done a good job building this one and in this colour it looks good enough to be on any modellers shelf. I saw my first dark green one earlier this summer and thought that it looked sharp compared to the lighter colors. All the black air scoops and exhausts, Which I'm not a big fan of, just seem to disappear. Unfortunately most must disagree with us since the dark green that came out in 2014 has already been dropped as a color choice for 2015. Again well done on your build and R2, please include water slide decals in your snap kits
I always paint then do a little weathering on my chassis, weathering chalks or paint, fluid drips exhaust staining etc. While we might keep the top surfaces of our 1 to 1 cars clean only a show car will be spotless on the bottom so why shouldn't our models look the same way whether we hold them up for others to see the bottoms or not.
Have several file folders full of them in one of my file cabinets, instructions often going back to the mid '60's. I find it quite interesting from time to time to look through them they will remind me of models built back when...., models that I built that are now gone or as an interesting glimpse into the history of our hobby. I wouldn't think of throwing them out.
This old line of Aurora/Monogram kits were very nice and you've taken this build way past nice. I have the Monogram reissue in my stash I think you're inspiring me to dig it out and take a look at it. Revell should think of reissuing this one, the Astin Martin and the Bugatti.