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Oldcarfan27

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    Oldcarfan27@Gmall.com

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    Patrick M

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  1. I found this thread. Thanks, Les. Anybody have any more tips?
  2. He's right. Should say K40 if it's 4x4. But then it wouldn't sound as cool.
  3. I went to HL and just bought a bottle of this along with the light and some silly putty for a quick mold. I tried searching this forum for any ideas on the best way to use this product - no luck. Is there a thread on this topic? Otherwise, what do you readers use it for? Thanks for your help.
  4. I had the same thing happen when air freshener was sprayed in the room that had my kits on a shelf. I'm positive that the spray drifted onto them and damaged the chrome but not the paint.
  5. I was referencing to the 2 part liquid epoxy, not the putty. Should be able to flow it in without distorting the foil.
  6. Try using heavy duty name brand aluminum foil and form it to the body of the car, burnishing out all the wrinkles then trim closely to the body. Carefully remove the foil body and put in appropriate dents and damage. When the car has the look you want, flow 2 part epoxy to the inside of each side of the body and let set. Paint the exterior to replicate the damage from the truck. Looks a lot more realistic than simply melting plastic.
  7. The Johans on top, the 69 Grand Prix and the Force 440 would be my picks!!!!
  8. I like it as it is. Where's the stock roof from? It looks like it was molded in black.
  9. My concern is that you can't get good, professional results using spray cans, airbrushes and acrylic craft paint. But if we offer something you can use, my best to you.
  10. To add to what Blacksheep said. The painting techniques for model cars is completely different than full size cars. You'd probably get better advice from another forum dealing with that kind of work.
  11. Years ago, I would build straight from the box and I was content. It was all about quantity. As I gained experience, I started to want to improve what was there and I added and changed what was in the kit. Came a point where I wanted something that wasn't available as a kit, so I had to improvise. That started me down the road to scratch building and "accurizing" cars. Since model companies are limited in their ability to do everything to exact scale, I began to think and research how I could improve the shape and feel of the bodywork. My take is if the body looks like the 1:1 from all angles, then it's good for me. I look at rooflines, roll unders, contours, tumble homes, peaks and valleys. I like the model to have the same complete shape as the real thing - only smaller. It's not always possible, but I try. To me, that is the most fun part of modelling. I may not have a large shelf of completed kits, but that's not the goal. For me, it's the journey, not the destination. I've had other builders take my unfinished projects because they liked the bodywork I've done and I'm fine with that. If I'm done with it and don't plan on ever finishing it, I'll move it on to someone who will. I'm content with my place in the hobby.
  12. There was an article written in one of the modelling magazines back then on this very topic, using the same kits you have. The author wrote that he had to build an '86 as the interior is the same as the '87. The rest was built just as Plowboy suggested. He also had to source the 10-hole "phone dial wheels", which is made easier today since Revell has issued their '90 Mustang coupe. Results looked accurate and the instructions made it look pretty straight forward. I attempted the conversion - twice! But never finished either of them. Got as far as completing the bodywork and got distracted. "SQUIRREL!!" I'll have to find them in the "closet of doom" and post them here for you to see how far I got.
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