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About kurth

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  1. It seems feasible they could have the modern stuff, As far as I know something like the revell 82 firebird was not re-issued in the China production era, so it is feasible the mold made it to the Illinois warehouse after the Revell/Monogram merger and could have been deemed unworthy for re-issue by The new owners of Revell, and then ended up with Atlantis. Lot of "Ifs" in that scenario, but it is fun to speculate. I agree, the kits you mention do sound like they are hinted at by the press release.
  2. It will be interesting to see what they have. They specifically mention 1/32, 1/24, 1/25 and 1/16 . So no 1/12 or 1/8. Maybe we will see some long lost pre-merger Revell stuff? Like the the 1982 Firebird SE, or that weird stepside street machine Square body pickup. In 1/16 I would love to see the 1/16 Firebird, and the 1/16 IROC. We will just have to see.
  3. Where is the AMT 1979 Bronco? Model King Re-issued it in 2006(ish) as part of a race team set, and it has yet to resurface. So, we know the tool survived at least until that point.
  4. I know that. I was not talking about Fujimi and Italeri kits. The idea of Testors molds was the stuff from Hawk and IMC which testors acquired in 1970. Testors sold Some of these kits almost continuously for years. according to this page: https://round2corp.com/hawk-model-kits/ The Hawk molds were purchased by J.Lloyd, which was in turn purchased by Round 2. Like I said, I should have been more specific.
  5. I thought about this a little more, since you have a badger 150, you can buy a 100 or 100LG body and convert the 150 into a badger 100, which is a gravity feed airbrush. https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/shell-model-100g-w-needle-bearing. The body is $25.02 There is also a 200 Gravity feed body: https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/shell-airbrush-body-model-200g-with-needle-bearing You can make your 200 a gravity feed. I have done several badger mashups and many parts are interchangeable. Just a thought.
  6. A gravity feed airbrush is a great investment.The thing to really watch for when you are looking inexpensive airbrushes is the availability of replacement parts. It is inevitable that even with careful handling you might bend a needle or loose a nozzle. Some of the really cheap airbrushes do not seem to offer replacement parts. At which point, you need to replace the whole airbrush. My understanding is that Master is one of the better choices for an inexpensive airbrush, but I have not used one myself.
  7. Exactly, it is fun to take the teaser picture and try to play detective to figure out what they acquired. It is probably what they hoped for by releasing the picture. It was also interesting to read about the ongoing saga of Johan, I never heard the tale of Moebius looking at Johan molds.
  8. Thanks for posting that topic Casey. That is the company I was thinking of. Too bad they ran into an issue which prevented them from releasing the kits. I would have purchased a Cutlass. To keep the thread on topic, I guess we will just need to wait a few days for the Atlantis announcement.
  9. Right, I meant the whole Testors collection of molds from various sources, I should have been more clear.
  10. Going down the JoHan rabbit hole, does any one remember A new company that announced a re-issue of the Johan 73 ish olds cutlass, and then it never happened? If it is johan tools, it will be a grand slam for Atlantis. There is a thread elsewhere in this forum about a visit to Johan, which showed the molds on shelves, so maybe we can compare this picture to that thread to see if it is possible these are Johan molds? Like someone else guessed, maybe these are testors/hawk/Union/ etc molds . But I thought Round 2 had all the testors stuff? It sure is fun to speculate and play detective. The business side of the hobby is very interesting to me.
  11. I have been slogging through this one, I am also building a Peterbilt 352, so I have been painting parts for both builds. I used several colors to paint the interior, and I just finished assembly of the interior. It looks satisfactory. I will paint the body next, with white, yellow, orange, and red. I have the scheme in my head, so now I need to get to work. see ya next update.
  12. The next step is to paint the black trim on the body. This required a lot of masking Here is where I did the "fine masking" and then I filled in the rest of the body with tape almost looks like a blue and yellow NASCAR stock car And with the semigloss black applied tape removed, you can hardly see the difference! I still need to apply decals, and detail paint under the hood, things like the overflow bottle, wiper fluid bottle, and so forth and so on. See ya next time
  13. You are right, it looks like I goofed on the top of the console. I consulted reference pictures again and sure enough it is interior color. not sure why I painted it black. I know I got the steering wheel color wrong too. 🤷‍♂️
  14. Hey Guys, I took your feedback, and did my best to apply it to this model, here is the underside of the chassis. I tried to get a few different shades of black and dark gray on the different components. It required some very intense masking. And as a bonus, here is the interior, I looked at a lot of pictures and tried to simulate the different textures and colors of the seats and other parts of the interior Your help is greatly appreciated. All the pictures I found of the underside of G bodies were very good for used and weathered reference, but my goal is a new car for this one. I am still polishing the body, and I will post pictures of the finished model when the time comes. Thanks again!
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