i recently acquired a 99 ranger XLT with the 4 litre v6 and 4 wheel drive. I really like that truck. I will probably nurse it along as long as I can since I like small pickups, and todays small pickups are almost the size of past full sized pickups. I sure hope they offer the Bronco as a 2 door. If so, I will be very likely to march down to the local ford dealer and be the first in line to get one. I just like two door vehicles better, but sadly they are becoming exceptionally rare.
As mentioned previously, watch the overspray and make sure it is getting sucked out of the booth. once it starts to move slowly and linger, it is probably time to change it. I let mine get so dirty one time, the booth could no longer draw the overspray/fumes out of the room, it was like painting in a closed room.
It is tough, I am just glad reading this I am not the only one. I will go through periods where I finally get sick of tripping over stuff and have a great purge. I got rid of 3 old computers, a bunch of good but obsolete computer parts. I just find myself thinking ... I might need this some day... but after tripping over something for 5 years and not using it, I finally realize maybe it is time to toss it.
I wish i could do the same with model kits. I have had ebay purges in the past but then always regretted it later.
I requested a body a few weeks ago also, and I realized when following up I did not get an acknowledgement for my request like I usually do. I wrote to customer service and we will just need to see what happens. I am sure they will sort it out.
After reading this thread, I decided to open the bag on the kit I got from tower hobbies as soon as it was available. Sadly mine is warped as well. It has a bit of a twist and a squished roof. What a shame, it was a kit I have been waiting for for a long time. I requested a new body from revell and indicated in the comments to please verify it is straight.
The AMT kits are 1/25 so decals designed for the Revell/monogram kits do not quite fit. The only problem otherwise with the AMT kits was with the thunderbird, the body just looks odd, the nose is totally different from the R/M kit. I built one a few years ago and it was a pretty easy build. I do not recall any issues other than trying to re work the body. I know I have heard other criticisms but I can not recall the details. What kind of paint where you using that you got bleed through? there are a few ways to avoid that. I know there were a few Revell Thunderbirds molded in white, but other cars may never have been. PowerSlide decals released decal sheets for the Days of thunder cars a few years ago, it looks like they are still in stock at mikes decals.
I remember when that kit came out, the decals were printed the wrong color, and monogram would send a replacement if you wrote to them. I built the kit back when Davey was driving that car. The replacement decals worked great. I seem to remember (it was a long time ago) that the first batch of decals was printed and the yellow was flourescent, instead of a golden yellow or vice versa... I do not remember. I might still have that original sheet in my decal stash somewhere. I have the Power slide decals as I would like to do this one again, and There was also a decal sheet made by Jax you might be able to find that looks good as well. I will say, Powerslide decals are worth every penny. About the other body, I remember other kits with the notch, and that was indeed for the exhaust pipe.
Nice work, I have often wanted to tackle a large Vac kit. How did you sand the parts after cutting them from the sheet? I have often wonder what the best way to do that would be with such large parts. Did you reinforce the wings with a spar, or make bulkheads for the fuselage?
Sounds like quite a haul. Do you have a list? While many Vacs have since been super ceded by new Injection molded kits, and are no longer the "only game in town" for a given subject, some have pretty good collector value, such as the Rareplane KC-97. Contrail kits are still sought after. My favorite Vacuform kits are the big multiengine jets from NOVA ... They offered a KC-135, and a C-141 in 1/72.
Let us look at this another way. What would be the best and worst years to be born in this case? I am thinking 1967 - 1973 are peak years for the choice of models, styling and the fact you could get a car with just enough modern technology/conveniences to still be livable today. The drawback being 1973 is the first year for 5 MPH bumpers (in the front) Bad years? To my tastes, and while some cool cars were still made, with the rapidly changing rules and technology, and political climate, 1978 - 1995 (mostly due to obd1 and the rise of bland FWD/4 cyl cars) Things got better in 1996 with OBDII and by 99/2000 you started to see cars with more power while still meeting emissions requirements.
One car only? Since I want to be able to drive no matter the weather, especially in the snow, I would say the 1975 Chevrolet Blazer with 4 wheel drive. It is a great looking truck, just big enough to haul around just about anything I need to haul, but not too big as to be hard to find a place to park. Probably swap the wheels for white wagon wheels, and upgrade the radio every decade to keep up with technology
HL is a good place to get started, they have just about everything you need, tools, paint, kits, and even air brushes. Other stuff like sand paper can be found at Walmart or auto parts stores. If someone starts out and decides to pursue the hobby seriously, then finding a Hobby store or internet retailer is helpful when you need more exotic paint, filler putty, or different glues. Does anyone else remember the tales of model kits with incorrect price tags? Before they came to My area, apparantly they had a better selection of kits, and had things like Tamiya 1/32 aircraft kits ($100+). On aircraft forums, people used to post stories of finding kits that retail everywhere else for over $100 with price tags of $40 or less, and they had the 40% coupon...
I fix the body first, mold parting lines, dimples, low spots, etc, then primer the body. while waiting a few days for the primer to be nice and dry, The next task is sorting the parts into groups which will be painted the same colors. After airbrushing as many parts as I can, I start with the engine and chassis, then the interior. The interior is still my least favorite part. Since I use enamel, which seems to take weeks to dry (cure?) completely I build the whole car so it is just waiting on the body whenever it is ready.