kurth
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Posts posted by kurth
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Is it safe to use something you are also using for food to dry paint?
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I think Dave G already said it best, you have to get closer to the model and shoot it wet, which might be different than what you are used to.
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3 hours ago, bluestringer said:
I got the paint a couple of days ago and painted my 66 Impala replica with it. I am not impressed. It came out rough, not smooth at all, and it's streaky, blotchy. I will need to wet sand and see if I can get it smoothed out and try adding a couple more coats. It's also not as glossy as I would have thought. I can maybe fix that with a clear. I've never had to sand a body I painted with Tamiya Acrylics. I should have tried to find a Tamiya color that was close to the original. Also the bottle leaked badly when I was shaking it, never could get it on tight enough to stop it leaking.
That is very strange . Can you show us a picture? I have had really good luck with MCW Lacquer so I am curious about what happened to you. Not being able to tighten the bottle cap enough is also very unusual.
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I build aircraft in addition to cars. I found the paints I use for other subjects also work great on car models. I use an airbrush for 95% of the things I paint.
I really like Mr. Hobby Lacquers. Each 10ml bottle is typically under $3.00 I airbrush just about everything, and these paints are very forgiving when airbrushing. The thinner most commonly used is called "Mr Leveling thinner" which slows down drying slightly to allow time for the paint to level, ensuring a smooth finish. they have a Rapid thinner, and a "normal" thinner as well. Mr Hobby also makes a great line of primers called Mr. Surfacer . It comes in different grades, the Mr. Finishing surfacer 1500 is my favorite primer.
Since this is a lacquer system, the paint dries fairly quickly. If you want, you can apply paint over Mr Sufacers in a few minutes.
Tamiya Lacquer paint seems to be very similar, and available at a similar price point. There are also AK Real Colors which appear to be a similar kind of lacquer.
I usually buy my paint from two very reputable sources:
spruebrothers.com
scalehobbyist.com
Another great source is : megahobby.com
The drawback is that these paints do not brush well.
On the occasions I need to brush paint something I will usually use my hoard of Model Master, Testors small enamel bottles, Revell Email enamels, or sometimes Ammo of Mig acrylics. The thing I found with the dropper bottle acrylics is sometimes I need to remove the dropper and stir the paint to loosen up the pigment on the bottom, then shake it. After it is really well mixed it brushes well.
If I want to paint a car body, I look for the color from MCW, or Splash paints. I have yet to use Splash paints, but I expect them to be pretty easy to use. I have also used Touch up paint from paintscratch.com and automotive touchup.com, which were pretty forgiving.
If you are willing and able to shop at online hobby retailers, there are so many choices. If you are not ready for an airbrush, Tamiya spray cans are a great choice.
I hope this helps to answer your question.
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I am curious why the finish is different on the areas with under hood detail. Did you paint both the top and bottom of the hood?
Is this paint so hot that it is softening the plastic or something?
I am firmly in the camp of using an Airbrush and quality paints, but The chemistry and physics of what is happening with this paint is interesting.
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I have finally tracked all of mine down, either through re-issues or through finding an old kit.
If I stumbled across this one at a show (in one of it's various releases/manufacturers) I would probably scoop it up but I am not going to search for it:
From what I have read, it is the best of the big Otaki cars. When I was a kid, the Countach was the coolest car in the world.
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I was so focused on the 90s Chevy pickup when I was at the show I totally missed the 71 Demon, and did not hear about until I got home. I am interested in the Demon. It is exciting to get new kits from Round2.
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That is a real shame, it looks like you did a great job on the paint, decals and chrome only to have that reaction with the paint. A lot of work ruined. I hope you are feeling better now.
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How about 73-79 Corvette grilles for the 1/24 monogram kit? With a seperate part for the turn signal.
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The Silverado kit is the one I am looking forward to. I hope the grille will fit the old 454SS kit.
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That is a lovely satin finish, just right for suspension components.
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I have airbrushed the white from that product line. I thinned it with mineral spirits. Since it is so thick, some modelers use it because it covers well. White in most model paints can be challenging to airbrush. It worked ok, it has been a while since I used it so I do not remember how long it took to dry.
I also used it on the exterior of my house to touch up a spot, and it has been really tough.
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how about this for all the unbuilt 90s Chevy trucks? with separate headlight and turn signal parts ?
Or the "four eye" version
I can supply both kits. I have not considered building either of these because the kit grills are so bad, but I really want to as they are great subjects.
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On 11/5/2011 at 1:55 AM, kurth said:
My Reissue wishes have been mentioned already but I just want to re-iterate in case anyone from revell or AMT/MPC is watching
monogram 1/8th cars - the vettes, the Trans Ams and the Camaro
MPC Volare , monza, vega
Dodge Van with a correct grille
and the MPC 1/16th scale cars like the 80s trans am, the 79ish trans am, and others I can not recall at the moment
I would welcome 70s subjects that we have not had for a while
I wrote this 11 years ago .. and I got most of what I hoped for, and others which I had wished for in the years since writing this. I guess if you wait long enough, and the tooling exists, it will eventually return.
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8 minutes ago, SteveG said:
Yes, the plan is for clear headlamp- side lamp lenses. One of the areas still being worked on.
-Steve
Yay!
And of course .... after I finally tracked down this kit . 😄👍 All kidding aside I hope they can make the clear lights available separately.
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Another needle did not work?
Is the O ring between the head and the body of the airbrush intact? There is not much that can go wrong with the H and now I just want to know what happened. 😃
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Do you have another needle set to try?
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17 hours ago, Monty said:
The Testors / Model Master sprays I'd been using were usually decanted before use, but I'd vastly prefer to have any future clears in bottles.
Looks like Revell offers a gloss clear and a matte clear (I assume flat). Anyone used them?
Testors still offers the Glosscote Lacquer and Dullcote lacquer in bottles. For semi gloss you can mix them to get the sheen you desire.
Lots of other good suggestions in this thread, the Tamiya Acrylics, and Mr. Color offerings are even better choices. Though for a good flat coat Testors Dullcote is great.
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Are you looking for a spray can, or bottle?
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1 hour ago, Plowboy said:
The '81 and '82 Chevy pickups actually should have the turn signals in the bumpers. It was the '83-'87s that had grille mounted turn signals.
As far as the grille being a mess in the recent issues, besides the chrome headlights, they look pretty accurate to me. The '84 GMC shouldn't have the bumper mounted turn signals.
The kit currently has turn signals in the bumpers and the grille, so it is a mix and match of years. The grill just looks odd to me, like the headlights are too big.
I was just really happy to see they addressed the things I do not like about the kit
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5 hours ago, Sledsel said:
never mind .... what I said had already been said
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The guidance I have received, and what works for me is to adjust the regulator to the desired pressure while holding the trigger down on the airbrush.
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Oh nice, it looks like the clear parts are molded in clear, and not smoked plastic like the 80s issue I have. I have waited a very long time for another shot at this one. (I started it back in the day but not well)
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I got the "style 6" grill on ebay, before thinking of going directly to the site. I grabbed it as soon as I saw it, sometimes you just have to act quickly.
Sources for clear 1/25 headlight lenses?
in Model Building Questions and Answers
Posted
I have been experimenting with UV curing clear resin. With a sufficiently powerful UV light I have been able to make a hard clear part. One member here posted the idea of using two part molding putty to make a mold. This works, but I have a hard time getting the putty into the grill without distorting it. I have been thinking about making conventional RTV rubber.
Another idea I had, and have yet to try is to apply a decal to the chrome headlight, and put UV glue on top. I found headlight decals on ebay. This idea would work for models with a recessed square headlight, like the MPC 1980s squarebody, or the 1980 volare.