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Flat32

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About Flat32

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    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/4 1/8 1/25

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  • Location
    Federal Way, WA
  • Full Name
    Raymond Federowicz

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  1. Apparently was done with relatively simple spacers for stock fenders in the real world. found here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=647800
  2. https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/topic/30695-saw-this-big-mack-truck-moving-a-big-load-today/?/topic/30695-saw-this-big-mack-truck-moving-a-big-load-today/?hl=duffy#entry176135
  3. I Googled Jungle Pam and selected images. There's a lot. I chose one to look at and clicked on the image which took me to somewhere, but not the image alone. Then, instead, I right clicked on the image and clicked "copy image address" which I then pasted into Google. This works most of the time to get you right to the specific image you want. Avoids the clickbait. Extremely helpful when researching.
  4. Finally got what I wanted to do working. Can now take a photo with my Android phone and see the photo on my Win 10 pc using the Microsoft Your Phone app. I guess it's using wifi so probably range limited, but I think with auto connect turned on any photos I took while out of range will automatically get transferred as soon as I'm in range. Photo shows up on the pc in under 3 seconds. Don't know if the app is using the cloud or not.
  5. This is the best resource I've found for technical information on this subject. https://books.google.com/books?id=Q4X1ovFVBvoC&lpg=RA1-PA34&ots=onnbtk1uSo&dq=red color dye migration in plastics&pg=RA1-PA31#v=onepage&q=red color dye migration in plastics&f=false
  6. The simple test I suggested is only aimed at determining if the color migrates or not in only the one case at hand. If it doesn't migrate then lack of coverage opacity would be a more probable cause of the problem. Could even be both happening. The technical articles I'm finding mention color dyes being more prone to migration than pigments and there are many different dyes with different characteristics. You would be surprised how uncontrolled the coloring of plastic was only thirty years ago. I spent twenty years in Taiwan getting plastic parts tooled and produced by small and medium sized molding shops. You get to see how many ways there are to screw up and who takes the blame. My wife may still have her red sweatshirt. I threw away my pink underwear.
  7. Did a little research and found that color dye, as opposed to inorganic pigment, is commonly used for coloring styrene and there is such a thing as solvent soluble powder forms of dye. I suspect this bleeding is maybe the paint solvent actually leaching the dye out of the plastic. I have no idea which paint solvents could leach the dye, could be all or only some. if this is the case. At any rate a simple test could be done on a sample of whatever colored plastic is in question. Take a bit of sprue wrapped in white paper that is wetted with whatever solvent is in your paint and put it in a zip bag to keep the solvent wet longer. Maybe a couple hours later unwrap and if the paper shows signs of color you've located the problem. Trick would be to test other solvents to see if there's one that won't leach the color. Most likely alcohol, the stuff that thins the Bin, will leach the least if at all. Just guessing here. Would make sense to paint first coat with a paint that uses a solvent that doesn't leach the dye.as a barrier coat. Would make sense also to have as much of the sanding done as possible so the barrier isn't compromised when sanding subsequent coats of normal primer.
  8. Had to see one of these kits firsthand to believe what I'm seeing with this build. Ordered a couple, rec'd today, opened a box and found incredibly small detail parts superbly molded. Closed the box. I have no developed skill using glue and this kit is certainly not one to learn on. Would love to see how you do it.
  9. Who made the kit and how old is it?? Do you have any of the red sprue to experiment with? Do you recall exactly what paints and thinners you used?? You have a very good example and if you can answer these questions you could be instrumental in pinning down the real cause and ultimate cure. My interest is related to the fact I've got a 3D printing resin that is loaded with a red pigment and I don't like using heavy coats of detail hiding primer paint.
  10. I don't paint because I have not learned enough to do it with confidence. I pay attention to most of the comments made in the many threads about the subject and see many opinions. This thread has me a little confused in that I don't understand what the term "bleed through" is describing here. Is it actually a bleeding of color pigment (via migration) through the paint or is it just a coverage problem where the paints don't have enough opacity due to layer thickness or paint pigment density?
  11. Used to have a '32 BB flatbed and put a '34 rear in it. Fond memories brought back seeing your model with more correct wheels and the crazy thing is the black 1956 Ford in the background. I had a black 1956 Ford convertible at the same time I had the truck some 60 years ago.
  12. Certainly looks worth the trouble. I can tell you got some real satisfaction out of the challenge and are enjoying the result. I get to enjoy seeing it.
  13. Carolina Chemical, LLC purchased through Amazon. I read all of the hazard warnings on every chemical I buy.
  14. Rooting around my stuff I found my other 2 oz container of Insta-cure, had bought two and forgot. I can honestly say TWO in a million. This one is no hazard because ALL of the stuff got out of the bottle somehow and is a solid layer in the bottom of the box I put it in. Absolutely no indication that the glue escaped via the spout or screw on lid. I've purchased a couple varieties of Loctite, but wanted the super thin and also purchased a bottle of the insta-cure with the Bob Smith Industries brand name and in 1 oz. size. This one I'll have to hide in the fridge in a glass cup. Been using the CA to glue 3D printed PLA plastic. Just discovered by accident that there is a solvent that will work as a solvent glue on PLA like acetone works with styrene. Called methylene chloride and supposedly also can be used to smooth out layer lines on PLA filament prints the same way acetone is used on ABS filament prints. I struggle with the CA. It's messy and somewhat unpredictable in my hands. Oh yeah, got a batch of the Flexi tips and used one on my Bob Smith Insta-cure bottle. Made a mess because the Flexi tip split and leaked at the big end.
  15. Looking at top of cowl relative to bottom of side windows. Original windshield relative to cowl wasn't too bad actually. Side window bottoms and beltline moldings (relative to cowl) is more prominent inaccuracy. Model will look good regardless.
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