El Roberto

Thanks for the advice.

This might be a really dumb question, but does anyone have an idea if Bounce anti static dryer sheets could be used to remove static from a model before painting. Maybe use like a tack cloth? It's very dry where I live and static is a problem.

You could also try Mr Color leveling thinner. It's basically a thinner with a retarder.

I haven't seen any acrylic metal paint which was very convincing. They just don't have the shine of real metal. You might try AK Interactive metal paints, they are enamel and look great. Easy to apply and are durable.

My local TV programs are swamped with sleazy, ambulance chaser, personal injury lawyer ads. "You don't pay a dime unless we win" of course they don't tell you how much their share of the take is. Of course they won't take a case unless it's a slam dunk.

That works for me. Or...Knick Knack Krap Rack.

Because HL discontinued their 40% off coupons, I've stopped shopping there. Their selection of kits including cars, aircraft, armor just sucks. Less and less as time goes on. I used to use the coupon for supplies, paint etc but since there's no discount I can buy the stuff for the same price or cheaper elsewhere. HL is turning into nothing but a freaking gift store, they need to change their name to Knick Knack Lobby.

Vallejo probably has a higher learning curve than anything else I've tried. I usually just use it for brushing details.

I did not mention anyone's specific build. Just stating my personal preferences, is that a problem?

Maybe it's just me but when I see a model which would never be drivable in the real world if it were a real car, I automatically dislike it. I mean, for example, a huge wheel and tire jammed in the wheel well wouldn't allow any suspension travel, and you probably wouldn't be able to turn the vehicle either. Or a car sitting so low you couldn't clear a marble without bottoming out.

Oh yeah! I've put a very tidy hole in my finger doing that.

I got a quick look at what seemed to be a GT 40 on the interstate today. No idea if it was real or a kit car.

That's possible. I end up physically scrubbing the ab parts with brush and pipe cleaners to get it clean. Rinsing alone won't work very well.

Don't listen to these guys....it's deadly. You should send the kit to me immediately for proper hazmat disposal.

I use it under lacquer and enamels with no problems. My only issue is that it's kind of a b**** to clean out of the air brush when finished spraying.

I've found that a clear coat can dull the shine of the BMF. I apply the foil after clear coating.

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately HL only carries the 1000, I'll have to look at my local hobby shop.

Whatever it is......it's ugly.

No..use Tamiya X 22 in the bottle. It's acrylic.

Yeah, me too. I'm boycotting Rustoleum, I wish everyone else would.

Alclad has a black chrome, but I haven't tried it yet.

I use Tamiya NATO black. It's not as brown as the tire black but not too black. If that makes sense.

I use Stynlerez for my armor build, makes for great shadow effects.

I bought a spray can of Mr Hobby surface primer 1000 at Hobby Lobby the other day and I really like it. It might be better than the Tamiya, covers better and levels out beautifully when dry. Also seems to be tougher.

Tamiya clear works great.