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NOBLNG

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About NOBLNG

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    MCM Ohana

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    Winnipeg
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    Greg

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  1. I bought one of those too and it works great! I used to shake all my paints to mix them and now I can't get the lids off of a couple of them. The mixer eliminates this problem!
  2. I went to see the movie Ford vs Ferrari last night and picked these two up this morning. Further discussion about the movie here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/130138-ford-vs-ferrari-film/
  3. I went to see this movie last night with a buddy. We both liked it a lot and thought it was well done. Lots of exhilarating driving sequences. I am not a die hard racing fan, so I cannot say how historically accurate it is!
  4. Line the recess with scotch tape or similar thin tape. Fill the void with bondic (this could be done in a couple stages to keep it from running?) and then color as per Richards idea. The tape will hopefully keep it from sticking to the plastic.
  5. I was under the impression that it needed a smooth glossy surface to adhere to. Am I wrong? I guess a test using the foil and paint in question would be the best way to be sure!
  6. There are some pretty good pics on this site... https://www.vintagejeepparts.com/categories/1976%2d1986-CJ7-%26amp%3B-CJ8/Interior-%26-Interior-Dress%2dUp/Floor-Mats-%26-Carpeting/
  7. Yeah, I'm ready! Got the last cut on the lawn and my tree's leaves cleaned up too. Brought the snow blower home from storage right before this happened on Oct 11th. The snow is pretty much completely gone now. It was so wet and heavy though, that combined with heavy winds, it just crushed the trees, most of which had not lost their leaves yet. They say about 30,000 of them were damaged in Winnipeg. They got a lot more snow southwest of us and power lines were down all over the province. Some steel towers were even toppled in places. Hydro has only recently been restored in some areas. We got away lucky and did not lose power.
  8. I have not done this, but the last method posted seems like a good one. If you don't have a round file the proper size, you could pinch a piece of sandpaper around a drill bit of the appropriate size for the final finish. I have a cheap set of drill bits that have all the fractional, letter and number sizes that would be handy for this sort of task.
  9. What kit is this and when was it issued? I vaguely remember building it as kid 50...ish years ago.
  10. I haven't built one, but if you plug this into google you will find a number of threads on the topic. "site:modelcarsmag.com crew cab"
  11. I have others that I put more work and detail into, but this one makes me wish I had a real one!
  12. I had originally made the round extensions for my cheapo food dehydrator but found it awkward to reach down into, especially when placing a lot of parts inside. I was always worried that I would bump and smear my fresh paint job. So for the price of a box of donuts, I went to my old workplace and bent up this metal box. The plexiglass cover cost me $30 and then I went and cracked it with the first aluminum rivet (3/16 was too big, 1/8 was OK). I could have made the lid from metal or plywood but I like to watch my paint dry (it's not as boring as people claim). I have this in the garage where I create a lot of dust and smoke at times so I still want to wrap the bottom somehow with filter media to keep from sucking in contaminants.
  13. I picked up a set of these curved files to go along with my straight ones. They are quite aggressive and work well for rough shaping and contouring. Plus you can get into places where straight files can't.
  14. I have only restored one minor glue bomb, but after separating the parts and sanding the surfaces down to the original styrene level, any remaining glue should not need to be removed, correct? Depressions would need to be filled and a good coat of primer/sealer should be all that's needed before paint.
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