Filthysanches

Update: I think I'm done with this one. The model had issues with fit, I had to redo the paint job a couple times, and at a certain point my eyes started wandering to other models. Not overly happy with how it came out but here it is. And it is dead to me.

This is tight, what an insane concept. I think the skirts are too sharp. The rest of the body has more gentler edges in general. Are the skirts going to be flush with the body or over? what is the cage made of? awesome build ill be watching.

Update: I've been away from the bench for a while here's an update of what I've done so far. I used this stuff for the pearl top. No Bueno, doesn't stick very well even with acrylic primer Results Here is some detail work I did on the bottom

Update: more body work (pearl white roof). The kit came with red pin stripes, wasn't having it, so I flipped the decal over for a white pin stripe. worked well. In the interior, I masked and sprayed the seats and doors, then dulcoated in order to give it a more accurate finish,without having to try to match the exterior. Also flocked the carpet using flat black as an adhesive. Next is the clearcoat, can't wait to get rid of the orange peel.

i was thinking pearl white actually. this kit looks pretty solid but there are some significant flashing issues so my guess is that i will have to wrestle this kit together.

Started on a Cuda, but was immediately disappointed with the model quality, so I shelved that for this model. Decided to go with a metallic grape,with a white roof. Not breaking the creative meter, but my apprenticeship must continue before I start modding builds. I imagine I'll be heavy modding whenever I get a 3d printer. I finally found an affordable printer capable of 1/24 scale.

Final update: all dirtied up. Let me know what I did wrong.

Yeah, the stock it was turned from is choppy at best I'd likely have to use wood filler and sand it. I'll stick with ye Olde time natural keg.

Update: some interior details and some dirt weathering

I think the wood does too. Ill go with that then.

Update: some chrome embelishments

Update: I designed a beer logo, then became abundantly clear of the limitations of my printer, and had to scale back the detail. I just picked these up at hobby town to see how they work. Here's me testing out the look with a reject print One challenge I had was to find a fixative to seal the ink that wouldn't dissolve under my clear coat. This seems to wotk Here they are all cleared. I learned a valuable lesson here, I didn't clean the aluminum out of my airbrush well, so I have aluminum flakes in the clear which bummed me out. More with the mocked body and wood. I found these barrels on ebay at 1:24 scale. They offer them in wood and aluminum, I bought the aluminum but was somewhat unhappy with the finish quality on what's supposed to be a smooth keg. What do you guys prefer? Still need to sand and polish the clear to remove orange peel and decal wave.

Updated chassis I have more work to do

Its actually stickier than I expected. I saw that Tamyia had similar weathering pigment, although im sure it is made specifically for this. But for a dollar its worth a shot. The redish color matches rust pretty well.

UPDATE: I painted and sealed the black paint with matte clear to keep from scratches. I also shot the copper sides. I'm not going with a standard ratio between colors, I'm looking for a less flashy industrial scheme. Somewhat understated flash of color. I did my best to keep the surface as smooth as possible. I will be designing a logo for the door, my guess is this and the clear over the bronze will be one of the last things I do before assembly. Working on the engine is pretty easy with this truck. Very simple and streamline. I had to bore out the horn as it didn't have a hole. I did some minor weathering, I plan on using some dollar tree eye shadow to add dirt and more surface weather. For the distributor I used an aluminum cylinder filled with sculpey. I created holes for the wires as spark plug mounts are difficult to work with. I then used a heat gun to cure the clay which hardens the holes. I thin just dipped the wires in superglue and stuck them in the holes to harden. I then painted the boots and wired it into the engine and painted the boots there. The rest of this was a stock build for now. I intend on doing more scratch engine detail once the engine is mounted.

This looks cool, wonder if it would work to paint it on somehow.

Yeah this is the best I've seen. Some of the guys on Prop replica forum use All-Clad which has pretty good results as well but my opinion not quite as good as this is holding up. Take a look at this spoon I sprayed over the brushing shown above and it's holding up pretty well.

This build is tremendous. The quality and care is absurd you should be ashamed of yourself for how bad you make me look.

I still have no clue how you got the grille that perfect. Trying to show the lights was not happening for me. How did you accomplish that subtle variation?

This model is solid. One of the best I've worked on.

I would like to see the results of a crafted interior. I'll keep an eye out for that.

Thanks I appreciate it. It's largely based off of the 351... I think, I had to use a bunch of reference pics so likely some things are off. There just isn't a whole lot of gran torino fans that are not starsky and hutch fans.

There is something oddly solid about the look of this car. My old man had a t-bird of the Same year, similar lines. Thank you, it's my first engine detail job. It's not easy scratch building the various parts I screwed up a bunch. Heat shrink tube and bailing wire seem to be perfect for many of the hoses.

Small update but I think it's an awesome discovery. Maybe some might know and I'm behind the times. Molotow liquid chrome, is nearly impossible to clear I've tried everything, even rpf doesn't have a solid solution to clear coating it. You can see the line for the coating top and bottom, with bare molotow in the center. For both these clears. I haven't tried spraying it mainly because I use it for trim and highlights. But the difference is negligible hoping it dries as well as it looks wet though I suspect it will. It's unclear what the difference between these two are as they are from the same company. For comparison here is another test with various other clears including an automotive 2 part similar to alclad, which I understand is popular.

Bed update