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Everything posted by bill-e-boy

  1. "I managed to get the two 4bbls under the hood." I was just following the instructions - which were bit vague. Anyway I ended up with something a bit different from stock While paint setting up I assembled the interior - nothing fancy as this is supposed to be a quick build And I installed the engine and exhausts and got it up on its wheels. The wheels took two attempts to get it right. The wheel base is a bit off and I moved the rear axle attachment point up a bit. I also moved the connection holes up as I want it slammed to the ground as much as I can Thanks for looking
  2. The engine paint job looks nice This is a good kit. I built one years ago and seem to remember it gets a little tricky around final assembly time
  3. Couldn't resist - started out life a a partly assembled glue bomb before I dealt to it
  4. To help with filter life I stretch a double layer of those horrible cotton wipe down cloths that come on a roll. When it gets a bit grungy and looking like being blocked just replace it. You will get a lot longer life out of your filter. Also rattle cans clog the filters faster than airbrushing as there is a lot of paint coming out of rattle cans
  5. Been slowly working on this but life has a habit of slowing things down Got the first part of the pant on - Tamiya Light Gunmetal lacquer Next step is to mask up for second colour. The mask is on both sides of the hood and runs into the engine bay. I used Tamiya 3mm fine line tape for the primary separation line to get a sharp edge and Tamiya masking tape for the fill in And after painting with Tamiya Gun Metal lacquer I am quite happy with the result - now to ready it for clear Thanks for looking
  6. Looks good Bob. Your booth is a smidgeon wider than the one I made up a little while ago. The secret to keeping BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH out of the paint is to move the painted items to a covered container to cure the paint. I use an insulated metal box with a light bulb on a dimmer but a dehydrator is supposedly good too. The deal is to move the painted object straight from the booth to the curing chamber to minimise any dust settling onto the wet paint. I also made a front cover to go over the open side of the booth to minimise dust and BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH getting into the booth. My workshop is general purpose with work stuff happening (self employed industrial electrician), metal working and worst of all woodworking - I try try to do the dustiest stuff outside I see you have a Paasche H air brush - good choice. I have one of these amongst the others I have collected over the years and my general go to is a Badger 200 that I picked up about 20yrs ago Pix of my set up below shows booth on top with the hot box curing chamber below
  7. Kool AV8 Koop - Nice build I wonder if Revel will offer either the coupe or roadster with a flatty I built a roadster flatty a couple of years back with a motor from the 32 Tudor
  8. It most certainly was one of the most influential rods of the day too. It has influenced me with the choice of wheels for my own car
  9. I seem to remember reading that it was used as a test bed for one of the hot rod magazines so was always changing especially mechanical wise. The paint job was a about the only thing that did not change.
  10. You have nailed it - nice and simple. Couldn't be simpler than an A-Bone coupe with a mouse providing the go.
  11. Nice build of a nice kit and lovely in white
  12. Paul - paint looking fabulous. The wood beds a knock out not only once but twice Tim S - Coming along nicely. I like the look of your laced spoke wheels Bill-e-boy
  13. What a kool kustom, Great paint job and super clean build Congratulate yourself
  14. Phil a good effort. I have looked at modelling this in the past and have been intimidated by the flames and the pin striping but you have nailed it - kool. I seem to remember a pix with it pulling a drag chute - must look it out.
  15. Excellent, great model. But then I am biased as MoparMan
  16. Get good lighting level to start with. LED strip lights are ideal - either 4' or 5'. To get the best lighting use 6000K color or higher. The 4000K lights are too red like incandescent lights and are poor for color matching. The strip lights can be used with the light track as there are usually connector blocks available. Talk with you electrician who should be able to help. I use 3x 4' single strip lights in my office which is about 12' wide and fairly narrow. I do not use this for modelling at this stage but I may do in the future so I set it up accordingly. I am a self employed electrician and I need an office for my paperwork As well as the above use task lighting with positional lighting as suggested above. I use a two in my modelling room, one with magnifying glass that is LED and the other a large unit with a 36W LED. My eyes aren't what they used to be
  17. Congrats Alan on a fantastic build Kit - Pete is making a good job on the paint Mine is waiting for the clear to harden and me to get back on track A quick mock up Alan - I agree with you on the influence that @tim boyd has had on kit-rodding over the years. I think we have all improved our game with his fine builds and methods of construction. A great mentor to have in our corner Cheers Bill
  18. Ha Ha That why I love to primer my models first - to iron out the bugs And yup close up pix don't tell lies - actually a good tool as the eye sometimes misses SNAFU's like that
  19. To replicate the hood ridge I ran my razor saw along the centre of the scoop to create a shallow groove. I then glued in some 0.25" round stock with a 50/50 mixture of super glue and liquid glue. I then used a file to shape the ridge. Unfortunately this left a groove on each side of the ridge a I filled that with a few layers of Tamiya "Liquid Surface Primer" neat from the jar. This works great as a spot putty. After some sanding it was ready for priming The body and hood needed some work after the first primer coat so this was fixed and re-sanded and then off to the spay booth for priming For primer I use Tamiya Liquid Surface Primer thinned with lacquer thinners. It leaves a nice smooth finish that can be sanded with 800 grit or finer paper More to come
  20. The instructions called for the hood to be opened up to fit the hi-rise intake and dual 4bbl's. Only thing I now cannot use the hood scoop - darn Oops hole too big So work round is to find a new scoop as I do not want a hole in the hood. Looked in my parts bin and found the belly pan from a wrecked Bad Medicine kit had promise I spent time cleaning up the base and cutting the front of the scoop to shape Ah! much more better The next on the list is to replicate the ridge that run along the hood on the top of the scoop More to come and thanks for looking
  21. OOPS - moderator can you please move to WIP
  22. I was at a breakfast and coffee meet late last year and was smitten by this. A primo 69 Torino Cobra Jet in black on black I ordered this and it arrived just after Xmas The black car provided the inspiration and after digging through the parts box found these wheels so a mock just had to be done The theme of the build is to do it box stock with little or no additional fine detailing - a bit like a slam kit but with clear windows so the interior can be seen. To keep with the black theme I sprayed the interior with Tamiya SE black from a rattle can After using an airbrush for so long it was like throwing paint at he model out of a bucket. The result was good though. The carpet has been painted with Tamiya flat black acrylic While had the SE black out I did the chassis as well The engine is Tamiya medium blue lacquer shot with my airbrush Exhaust is painted with Testors steel Metaliser Next up is the body - I want to dechrome and de-badge so I had some work to do Thanks for looking
  23. Cool project. You have done a great job and kudos for mag coverage
  24. Thanks for the clarification Greg Copper is easy to solder and would make for easier handling. I have used plastic tube but you tend to use a bit and it is more time consuming and I feel a little wasteful. We pay a lot for Plastruct etc tube here in NZ as it is imported and there are a few ticket clicks on the way to the time we buy it Ally cant be soldered so that does not lend itself to header building. The same for solder. I will keep a look out for some suitable copper though as I like the concept
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