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Everything posted by jchrisf
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Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'm pretty sure it is this one but I'll check when I get home. -
Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
About three days. I put it in a dehydrator for a couple hours after it had dried for a few hours. -
Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I'll have to look at the can when I get home to be sure it is the painter's touch but I know it cleans up with Mineral Spirits according to the label so it must be enamel. -
Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Snake, I put on two coats about 30 minutes apart out of the can. -
Just got these two in that I am looking forward to building.
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Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Dave, the decals ought to go down nice though. -
Mine is the 08.. I just looked it up and it looks like it is the .8mm pen. I don't remember if they had different sizes when I purchased mine and if they did why I choose that one.
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Rustoleum 2X Gloss Clear polishes out real nice
jchrisf replied to jchrisf's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
Thanks everyone. The best part is it is cheap and doesn't smell as bad. It also seems to be tougher than the lacquers I have used in the past. The inside of the body (painted with Rustoleum) would be scratched up from putting it on and off my Tamiya stand if it was lacquer or acrylic. I don't have any clear on the inside. I also put Rustoleum on my chassis and not a mark on it. The dremel saves so much time. I'd have never thought about it but saw my hero David Thibodaeu do it on one of his videos where he explains it very well. I have a cordless dremel that doesn't spin as fast on it's lowest setting but they make corded ones that have multi-speed that can get low. I'll be getting one like Dave s when I need another. I think I only paid $20 for my cheap dremel though. -
I found it to be a quicker process than normal. 2000 followed by 4000, then Meguiar's Ultra Cut Compound followed by Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish. The compound and polish with a wool attachment on my Dremel. The Rustoleum laid down flatter than any Lacquer I've ever used so I didn't have a lot of orange peel. This picture doesn't even do it justice.
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I use the Japanese Gelly Roll 08 white pen that I got at Michaels. It takes a very lite touch with good lighting and magnifaction. I practiced on four tires before I got the hang of it. I just used alcohol to wipe them off and start again. Once I got the hang of it I was able to slowly and carefully do all four without a problem. I found pushing the pen towards the edges worked better for me. If you barely touch it to the tire it will flow out nicely and you can move the ink around with the pen. You can also sand them off and use decals.
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Great build and story Jim.. what was Wendall like? I saw the movie about him.. seemed like he was a nice and cool guy.
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Looking for tips on detail painting
jchrisf replied to Andrew McD's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
You'll notice from the video I posted above that he uses a wet pallet. These people who use wet pallets will keep the paint on their pallets for weeks without them drying so it saves on paint. They also use flow improvers and retarders in the mix. -
Looking for tips on detail painting
jchrisf replied to Andrew McD's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I found this figure painter's channel to be very useful for detail painting. He has a lot of cool videos that have taught me a lot -
Nice Jim.. I'm going to have to check that wire out.
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David, that is a good airbrush to start with.. probably the most recommended one here. When I first got into this hobby a couple of years ago I wanted to start with an airbrush too. I've since purchased a few and now have a Procon Boy PS-290 which is a true workhorse but I still love my Paasche H too. The 290 is my main airbrush now though. Enjoy it and post up some pics when you get a good paintjob. If you do it like AndyX did it, it will come out great.
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If the company is gone I'd think the copyright was null and void. Plus they are not selling it anymore and there is no way for anyone to get access to this great resource. Hopefully someone will figure out how to get it the pdfs off there. I'd be happy to pay a fair price for it but I can't even do that. Fortunately I bought some of the digital sets they had available before the DVD was out. They are of several things but one was the Kemp Collection and the other was Building the Legends with Clay Kemp and David Thibodeau. I'd love to get everything Clay and DT have done.
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Working Around Red Plastic?
jchrisf replied to JollySipper's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I just read an article by Bob Downie @Zoom Zoom about this very subject in an old issue of Scale Auto. He uses Zinsser BIN Shellac Based Primer Sealer to prevent the bled through. -
New way to strip paint from bodies, safe and simple!
jchrisf replied to 69H.O.Firebird's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I saw on their facebook page that they are not shipping yet. -
I found this video a couple of years ago and did just like Andy and my paintjob came out great. Only thing about those Testor's paints is they take a long time to cure. So you'll have to have patience waiting for that paint to dry. Get a dehydrator and it will go quicker. This would be a good starter airbrush. I got mine on sale at HL for $25. So go ahead and get started. The best way to learn is to do it.