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Posts posted by jchrisf

  1. 23 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    Nice ! That #1 is .55 evidently.

    Yeah, the 5 is the same size on the two but the 1 and 3 are bigger on the VL as you know.  I used both the 5 and 3 today and they put out a lot of paint.  I used the 5 for Tamiya Fine Primer and it went down smooth.  Then used the 3 and put down Tamiya TS-16 that went down smooth as well.  I really like this AB.  I think I am going to go back to the 1 and see if it will work with everything.  The 3 and 5 can suck down a cup really quick.  I noticed my room really stank after using these two sizes but I did use a lot of Tamiya Yellow Cap so maybe it is just much stronger.  When I used the 1 I was using Mr. Color Leveling Thinner... not sure if it was the thinner or the amount of paint the AB was putting out and over powering my paint booth.

  2. Just tried the VL today for the first time and loved it.  I found it easier to paint with than the H.  It was sputtering at first.. not sure what was wrong with it.. but after blowing about half my mixed paint through it, it was fine.

    Incidentally, I decanted some Model Masters Royal Blue Pearl Custom Lacquer and it sprays a whole lot better than the TS-47 I decanted.  Maybe I've got an old or bad can of Tamiya.  The MM went down smoooooth.

  3. 11 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

    Nah, don't think I want to do videos. SA didn't live up to their agreement, this was the reason I stopped writing for them. They screwed me over, and that is why I stopped writing for them. It was a very ugly breakup because they were too greedy. Their loss.

    Yep their loss for sure.

  4. On 5/30/2020 at 10:06 AM, Dave G. said:

    Well good luck with all that. I shoot lacquers with my Badger and side cup....

    I think I finally figured it out!  I watched David Thibodeau's video below and barely opened the flow.. not even a half a turn.  I was barely moving across the body like he was doing and getting a nice light coat.  I think I was putting on way to much paint before with the flow opened up halfway.  Now I can test the VL because it has a that flow control on the front that I can use to adjust the initial paint flow.. of course, since I never need to let off the air doing it this way it should be easy to find the flow just using the trigger and maintaining it.  I also thinned my paint out more and it seemed to help too.  


  5. 1 hour ago, Italianhorses said:

    I don't even remember anymore. Quite possibly I wrote something after the last website update, but its been 10 years and I simply don't recall if I did.

    Be awesome if you did some YouTube tutorial videos like David Thibodeau (DTModelArt) has done but I understand it might be a lot of work.

    Actually, I've been on your website a few times and never realized you have your publications listed there.. What a treasure chest.. unfortunate that the Scale Auto ones can't be viewed (though I have a few that I paid for but not all) but the rest are available.  Thanks for posting these!


  6. 2 hours ago, GeeBee said:

    Agreed that either Molotow or Alclad really don't like being handled, and since the early 1990's I've been using Bare Metal foil, although a few years I built the MPC/Airfix 32 Chrysler, the chrome was shot, so got stripped and everything was redone using Alclad, it's been sitting in the display cabinet and still looks as good as it did the day it was built.





    Wow!  Excellent work Geoff!

  7. 13 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

    Haha, I was wondering if anybody actually bought that. I have not seen it myself, since I'm too cheap to pay for my own stuff :) And SA were too cheap to send it to me.

    Silvers are good, if you want silver. If you want Chrome, get Molotow marker. Just search Amazon for a name. 

    Oh man.. I can't believe you didn't even get a copy for yourself or get royalties...  Other than your website do you have any other tutorials available like the one I mentioned?  

  8. 19 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    How far I open depends on how I thinned the paint and air pressure setting. And 75% may be out of it's good flow zone fwiw. You gotta work the sweet area of the threads with the H, you can go too far and start losing the pattern in my experience. Thus the three nozzle sizes. That #3 is great with enamels and acrylic paints.

    I only spray lacquers on bodies with my H.  I use my Neo for Iwata to spray the detail stuff with acrylics.. Only Enamels I use are the AK extreme metals and use the neo for that as well.  I've got a spare body prepped and ready to spray this weekend so I'll be experimenting with the H at around 50% open and maybe play more with the air pressure too.  If I can't get this down soon I'll break open some more old Nascar kits and use their bodies.. Once I get it down the Super Clean will take care of getting them stripped so I can build them for real.

  9. 3 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

    Cool thanks!  I just pulled up my Kustov Collection: Tutorials that I purchased from Scale Auto a couple years ago to make sure it wasn't mentioned there and it wasn't.  I'm going to get some of these.. Are the Silvers any good?


  10. 7 minutes ago, Scale-Master said:

    I keep my "workhorse" VL loaded with a #5 needle & cone.  I have a second VL ready to run loaded with a #1 set.  I have a third VL with a #3 needle and cone, but use the other two most of the time as the overlap between them covers all the bases. 

    The older VLs seemed to work consistently from one AB to the next, but the "modern" ones each seem to have a different personality and I've come across a few that work very poorly (or not at all) out of the box new. 

    I think the quality of the old ones is far better than the new ones.

    Thanks Mark.. you do an amazing job with those VLs.

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