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Posts posted by jchrisf

  1. 1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

    If you tend to shoot with the nozzle fairly closed down you may not see much difference between the nozzles. Opened up and if you have sufficient airflow it should be noticeable, if in no other way than over spray and the volume of paint going down in your cup or bottle. That #5 can be a guzzler in particular.. And if you mostly shoot it fairly closed down then it may not matter to you anyway.. If you're happy as is go for it !!

    Additionally with full disclosure here, I've been using the H with the #1 tip lately myself. My #3 tip packing has loosened up so it hesitates ( air leak). A little bees wax works but rather than mess with it I just switched to the #1. Been getting along with it fine but the fine mist end of the threads has it cut off quicker than with the 3. That #1 tip would be great with a more gradual needle imo. Course if I really want that I have the very elderly Badger 200.

    Yeah, I think that is my main problem.. I don't open it up enough.  I usually try for halfway to maybe slightly under.  Next time I'm going to use #3 (on my test bodies) and somewhere around 75% open.

  2. 54 minutes ago, Funkychiken said:

    With this level of quality, it would be hard to beleive that you are a newbie!

    Thanks Atin... I started a couple of years ago and built 5 or 6 models before I got frustrated with bad paint finishes.  So I took two years off and kept watching YT videos and finally got the bug to try it again.  I have trouble with painting the bodies and end up having to strip them and start over.  This one was left in Tamiya primer because I like the way it looks and goes on so smooth.  I would be finished with this build but I'm waiting to get more practice with the clear on my test body before I shoot this one.  This is also the first build I have done where I have taken my time.  It makes a big difference I've learned.

  3. 12 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    I usually lock the needle assembly in place so that there is about 1/16” between the back of the needle holder and the flange on the needle assembly, though I do adjust the location of the needle based on how well the paint is flowing. The key is to practice until you achieve results that you like. Scrap bodies, pop cans, paper, whatever helps you get used to controlling the brush.

    As for the VL, I would suggest practicing with the H until you become comfortable with spraying. The VL is a double-action airbrush (adjustable for both paint and airflow), so It adds in another layer of complexity while you paint.


    That's interesting where you lock it in place.  I've not heard of doing that before.  I've always thought that needle stuck up too high.  Is this a common practice?

  4. 8 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    I always used a #3 for spraying most hobby paints, and a #5 if I was spraying paint with a heavy metal flake content. The only time I use a #1 tip is when I need to spray inks for posters.


    11 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    The #3 tip on the H is the honey zone imo and most compressors will keep up with it. The number 5 can start spitting if your compressor won't flow enough ( just watch the working pressure on your gauge as you do a test shoot), especially tankless compressors may not keep up with that #5 tip, the pressure drops out and next thing you're shooting gubers. I use an 8 gal portable compressor anyway but non the less pretty much never have seen the need to move to the #5 tip except to try it out, course that depends too how you thin your paint. I've shot enamel even on my Badger with .25 needle, just thin it 1/1. Sprays fine, beautiful really. Non the less with the H, imo, the #3 needle is the sweet one that does most things right. Still, I can understand using the #1 for thin lacquer and for washes too. Or the #5 for something thick.

    Mr Leveling thinner, which is lacquer thinner, has retarder in it fwiw. A lot of people use it and like it too.

    How far do you all open your nozzle on the H when you shot lacquer on the car body?

    9 hours ago, GeeBee said:

    It really depends on what I'm using, for lacquer paints i find the VL with the #3 set up gives me the best finish, for sythentic enamels like those I used for the Trabant the H with the #5 set up was the only way I could get a decent finish.

    I'll have to give the VL a try soon... was trying to master the H for smooth body painting first but haven't figured that out yet... I might have to put it aside and grab the VL

  5. 1 hour ago, GeeBee said:

    Thanks Geoff!

    1 hour ago, GeeBee said:

    I use the Paasche H and the VL, I would forget using the #1 set up, and go to for the #3 instead, for some paints like synthetic enamel I've had to go to the #5 set up.

    Thanks again Geoff!  I have a VL too but have never used it.  Which do you like better?  I got mine on sale for $25 at Hobby Lobby and couldn't pass it up.

  6. 3 hours ago, GeeBee said:

    No, for that, you need to bottle with the orange top


    Is there anything I can add to my Yellow Top to retard it?

    3 hours ago, 64Comet404 said:

    Tamiya does have a retarder available for its acrylic line, but I haven’t seen it out yet for lacquers. With the LP series out now, I wouldn’t be surprised to see a retarder in the line soon. 

    Btw, what tip are you using on your H? If you are using the #3, you may want to change it to the #5 for better paint flow before the thinner flashes. Hope this helps.

    I've been using the #1 tip because I notice most custom paints recommend small nozzles for body paint... and even the #1 is pretty big.

  7. 2 hours ago, Dann Tier said:

    Looking fantastic!!!

    Thanks Dann!

    10 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

    Looks good!

    Thanks Alex, I'm a big fan of your work and articles!

    10 hours ago, lghtngyello03 said:

    Looks good. I’ve had this kit for a while...it screams to be built lol. 

    Thanks Scott and Yes it does scream to be built :)

    9 hours ago, El Roberto said:

    Wow, looking good.   Yeah...Tamaya decals can be problematic sometimes.  

    Thanks Robert.. I've never had a problem with Tamiya decals but this is a pretty complex scheme for me but I've learned a lot and should make most of my stash kits easy.

    8 hours ago, ZTony8 said:

    I have that kit in my stash. My plan is to take the engine from the 1984 Toyota Tom's prototype and use in the Supra. Yes, that a 4 cylinder in there-I think it was peculiarity of the Japanese series rules.

    Wow Tony, that is above my skill level for now.. I guess you will cut the hood open so you can see the engine?

  8. 9 hours ago, Carmak said:

    My 23 year old daughter just told me today about a brush on chrome nail polish that looks really good. She told me it has to be cured quickly after brushing with a UV light to produce a good clear chrome look. She wants to get some to touch up the faded vacu-chrome on the dash of her 69 Mustang. I can't wait to see how it looks.


    Cool.. hope it works for our cars too!

  9. 7 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    Paasche Talon offers an additional fan cap as well ( seems to me the cap and nozzle combo is $10 or so). It's used with the .66 needle but it's double action so you don't have to pull back all the way if you want less paint. I believe the pattern is around 3".

    I've been looking at that one too Dave.  Right now I am leaning more for the Creos but you never know :)

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