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Posts posted by jchrisf

  1. 39 minutes ago, Glen Powers said:

    Chris, I subscribe to the 'thin, soft, close" method. Thin paint, low pressure, close to the target, for me I feel it results in less overspray/orange peel. It seems when it comes to airbrushing just about everyone has a method that works for them and you will no doubt develop your own also.


    Glen, that is exactly how the 1:1 guys do it.. I'm trying to get closer with less pressure and thinner paint like you said but my current airbrushes just do a fine line at that distance and why I think I need one of these.

  2. 10 hours ago, Miatatom said:

    I haven't tried a pressure that high but will give it a try.

    what pressure do you use?


    11 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    I usually use between 30 or 40 psi with my PS-290.

    I have not tried it with pressures as low as 20 psi, but my understanding is that a larger volume air supply works better for this higher volume air brush.






    I looked at some reviews and one guy says he sprays all the way down at 10psi.  Most others said they have to use more air.. but I watched a couple of YT videos and even though they were using more pressure it wasn't overpowering their paint booths so I should be good.  I have a 26 gallon tank so I have plenty of pressure I just don't want to overpower my paint booth since I paint inside.  This Creos 290 looks like it atomizes the paint really well without too much paint going everywhere.

  3. Thanks @Miatatom & @Glen Powers!

    They both look perfect.. I'm going to be investigating them further.  I'm a big fan of GSI Creos paints so I might be swinging that way now.. it is less expensive too and I think @StevenGuthmiller uses one too from my research.  But I also have heard great things about the Grex pistol grips.  Will be a tough decision but there doesn't seem to be many more options out there except maybe a jamb gun.

  4. 2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    If you're using a standard needle ( .4-.6) or even a .35 you probably won't need to thin it at all. It really snuggles into every detail well. Don't over do the thinning. Soaking in lacquer thinner should work to soak it clean, I find 91 ipa to do well. My over night soaks I do now and then are lacquer thinner though and who knows what residue is inside my brushes, never had any trouble. Just make sure you really flush out the bulk of the Stynylrez ( plain water gets the bulk out) because it hardens up pretty quickly if not. It's good stuff, I think you will like it.

    Thanks Dave.. plain ol water is nice and cheap and smells nice.. I can use lots of it to clean it out.  Yeah, I have all those airbrush needle ranges.  I'd prefer not to thin so I'll try it straight out the bottle.

    2 hours ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

    The last paint I shot over it was Scalefinishes, and I had no issues. Regardless, it is never a bad idea to always spray a spare part of the same plastic you are painting,this will then give you something to "test" before you shoot your project. So, if the kit has two hood for example, you could prime it all, then take the spare hood and test the paint on that for compatibility. 

    Thanks Mark.. I'll definitely test it.

  5. 1 hour ago, Dave G. said:

    First of all it's basically odorless ( faint underlying sort of musky smell). It goes on like paint lol and levels out nice when dry. It will spray from the bottle but I often use a .25 needle and being lazy well that's not the best nozzle size for primer. So I cut it a little bit, takes very little thinning. I was using alcohol or a thinner I make up for craft paints and cutting 5-10% but then I found that Badger suggests just plain water. Funny you should ask because yesterday was the first time I tried water, very very little, maybe 3-4% plain water. It mixed right in and just cut the tension, mixed like light cream, sprayed on very smooth with the .25 needle. It dries in about 30 minutes but I like to give it a half day or so or cook it for 20 minutes in the dehydrator. You don't have to do this but I like to buff it with 000 steel wool, it will come out semi gloss if you do and gives a super smooth surface for your finish coats, plus pluck out any little flecks of dust you might not realize is there.. So happens this time I shot in the late afternoon so it's sat overnight.

    Really clean your airbrush. I flush and backflush, then flush in running warm tap water about three cycles. Then use 91% ipa and run that through back flush, then flush with water again. I use a Qtip inside the nozzle end. Then one more flush with water fwiw. Worth a tear down if you will put the brush away for a while. But I'm usually painting again within hours. It really clings inside the brush and when it fully cures it's a bear to deal with then. So I make sure it's well flushed out. I do a lot of craft paints for my color coats these days, so I'm often following up with acrylic.

    Thanks for the tips Dave... Glad to hear water works.  I'll have to see what Paul uses. .I'll post his video later where I heard about it.  I usually tear my airbrush down every time I use it and soak in Lacquer thinner.  Never do this with Vellajo.. I learned the hard way.  Do you think lacquer thinner will get rid of the left over badger?

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