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Rat Roaster

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About Rat Roaster

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    MCM Regular

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

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  • Location
    I forgot
  • Full Name
    Butch

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  1. Truly ahead of it's time in the engineering department. And faultless in the appearance. General Motors was on top of the world at the time. Very nice execution!
  2. Can't go wrong with bullet holes~!
  3. LOVE the heater core nipples sticking out of the firewall. Very creative!
  4. Thank You. They looked like Mustang but i could not think of one with what appeared to be opening doors. Yo, trash man: got something for you
  5. For precision block sanding you want something with a ground finish or close to it. Various solid tungsten carbide shapes. Triangles are really good for gripping the sandpaper and they come in various sizes and various corner radii. But i'll use steel dowels, high-speed tool bits with sharp corners, a 6" stainless rule and even sandpaper wrapped over the edge of a single-edge razor blade. The beauty of the carbide is that it does not rust. Good because nearly all my block sanding is done wet.
  6. They look like they could be semi-important and am gonna ask before i drop them into the trash hamper
  7. I have one of these, nearly as bad. Didn't have the skirts but was brush painted with auto lacquer that bonded to the plastic. I cut it up with the hot knife in order to kill any lingering fantasies about making something out of it '59 Pontiacs and '60 Oldsmobiles are practically impossible to make right after they've had skirts welded to them. '58 Pontiacs can be saved but they take up a lot of hours to fix the craters. BTW i fix broken W/S frames like that all the time by grooving the underside of the frame on both sides of the break then supergluing in a section of sewing straight pin.
  8. Thread works by melting the plastic. It works on styrene but can be hard to steer. It does no good to use lubricant because that prevents the styrene from getting hot enough to melt. Heavy-Duty thread holds up a little better but be prepared to deal with a LOT of broken threads. Never tried it on resin for obvious reasons. Obvious reasons? Ya, we don't mess with rosin down here on the farm.
  9. Jeweler's Saw. I picked one up then bought a mess of different tooth-count blades from India off eBay, cheap of course.
  10. I drive a 1991 Scottdale, 1/2 ton, reg cab, V6 & 5-speed, factory gauges. So i appreciate the obvious extra effort you made. Had the engine out of mine a few years ago. Oil pan pinholed. So i gave it the works. New Dorman Oil Pan, the used rocker covers came off a marine V6 from Las Vegas. So: new tin, new bearings, new timing set and a set of eBay, correct for 1991, reman heads out of Idaho for $128, shipped (what a steal). New Dorman exhaust manifolds. Lifters disassembled & cleaned individually, pistons & rings cleaned of carbon. It still has only 125K on the engine/truck. .003-.004" wear in the cylinders. I looked at the Walker Exhaust Catalog. There were 2 sets of pipes available for the 1991 Chevy 350 V8. Single tailpipe or optional dual tailpipe with a 3" system before the muffler. Then i noticed that the V6 and V8 used the same crossover pipe. LOL So, this V6 breathes through a stock 350 3" exhaust system with a BIG muffler and dual 2" tailpipes. Did i mention that the cat was eliminated with a custom-bent 3" pipe? A V6 that rumbles softly like a V8 through twice pipes Nice job on your model!
  11. I looked at the contents. The only detail that is glaringly wrong is the pedals piece. You could heel and toe all 3 pedals with the ball of your foot. Just as bad as the right side master cylinder in the MK 1961 Catalina stock car. That said, i bought more after seeing the first one.
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