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  1. '65 Fury. Back on the Bench.

    Yes, the gap in the circled area is about right for the 1/1; it would get a bit narrower towards the front of the cushion as the bolster flares out a bit. And, yes, the armrests will definitely hide that. I loved that you added the four screw holes to the bottom of the door armrests; I've spend more time upside down trying to keep a screw driver in the head of the screw and keeping the screws/armrest/door panel holes all aligned to go back together.
  2. '65 Fury. Back on the Bench.

    The rear seat gaps are actually prototypically correct for a Sport Fury interior. On the 1/1 if you remove the rear seat cushion you will find a plastic "box" screwed to the floor and quarter trim panel at each end of the cushion to act as a filler between the cushion and the quarter trim. The boxes are roughly 3" thick by 5" tall and 12" long. If you proceed to pull out the seat back, again on each end you will find a heavy cardstock filler panel (like a leg) that runs down from the package shelf to the floor to trim out the gap at the end of the seat back. Overall it helps give the back seat a bucket effect similar to the Turbine cars. The Johan seat cushion has a bit of a "step" in it to go around the convertible top pockets but the hardtop wouldn't have that; it would be a smooth line from the back of the cushion all the way around to the front. To my eye, rather than filling in the step it would be more appropriate to make the front width of the cushion the same as at the step, as the gap between the end of the cushion and the quarter trim is really pretty prominent. The filler panels that you made for along the seat back actually do look pretty close to prototypical.
  3. '65 Mopar Carburetor

    Carter AFB 3859S for four speed cars and 3860S for automatics.
  4. Plumbing a ENDT 673

    Hi, was wondering if there are any known articles on plumbing a Mack ENDT 673 that would be useful for a diesel novice? Thx