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Everything posted by 77-830

  1. I ended up with a really nice hood. My deck plate has a subtle bow but not nearly as bad as yours. My axles are like bananas; they were an easy fix though. The frame has a weird twist that I haven't had success completely working out yet. It's kinda like it got T-boned and twisted. Reminds me a bit of the frames on AMT tractor trailers lol. Got a beautiful cab though!
  2. Wow, it looks like A&N Model Trucks is planning on releasing a US Spec Freightliner Argosy this fall. The 3D drawings they posted on Facebook look pretty cool!
  3. The '67-72 Ford pickup detail set from Model Car Garage does have some Camper Special nameplates on the fret. I'm not sure if they varied by years but, they are there.
  4. Bob at MCG has put a bunch of new items up on his website. I just received '55-57 Thunderbird, '67 Shelby Mustang and '68 Mustang GT detail sets in the mail today. As is typical of Bob's products, they are first class. Definitely worth a look!
  5. Dave Carey from Models by Dave did offer 9300, 9400, and 9900 conversions. If I recall correctly he doesn't list everything on his website so it might be best to send him a note to see what his current offerings are.
  6. Those Merc conversion parts look great. What is the best route to get purchasing info on them? I understand that they aren't listed on their site yet so I requested info through their Contact tab on a couple of occasions and haven't received a reply yet.
  7. On the body side mouldings, Sport Fury's have an engine turned insert while Fury III's were "colored;" usually red, white or black depending on interior trim (possibly blue also, I don't recall and would have to pull out the parts book to confirm). The three bar mouldings on the front fender were Red/White/Blue on Sport's while they were the same color as the side moulding on III's. On the trunk finish panel, the Sport Fury's have engine turned inserts above and below the center strip with the PLYMOUTH lettering. On III's the whole panel is plain anodized aluminum.
  8. Yes, the gap in the circled area is about right for the 1/1; it would get a bit narrower towards the front of the cushion as the bolster flares out a bit. And, yes, the armrests will definitely hide that. I loved that you added the four screw holes to the bottom of the door armrests; I've spend more time upside down trying to keep a screw driver in the head of the screw and keeping the screws/armrest/door panel holes all aligned to go back together.
  9. The rear seat gaps are actually prototypically correct for a Sport Fury interior. On the 1/1 if you remove the rear seat cushion you will find a plastic "box" screwed to the floor and quarter trim panel at each end of the cushion to act as a filler between the cushion and the quarter trim. The boxes are roughly 3" thick by 5" tall and 12" long. If you proceed to pull out the seat back, again on each end you will find a heavy cardstock filler panel (like a leg) that runs down from the package shelf to the floor to trim out the gap at the end of the seat back. Overall it helps give the back seat a bucket effect similar to the Turbine cars. The Johan seat cushion has a bit of a "step" in it to go around the convertible top pockets but the hardtop wouldn't have that; it would be a smooth line from the back of the cushion all the way around to the front. To my eye, rather than filling in the step it would be more appropriate to make the front width of the cushion the same as at the step, as the gap between the end of the cushion and the quarter trim is really pretty prominent. The filler panels that you made for along the seat back actually do look pretty close to prototypical.
  10. Carter AFB 3859S for four speed cars and 3860S for automatics.
  11. Hi, was wondering if there are any known articles on plumbing a Mack ENDT 673 that would be useful for a diesel novice? Thx
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