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About Ahajmano

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    MCM Friend

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  • Location
    Pasadena CA
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  1. I’m finally done! This was the most difficult kit I have ever built. I purchased the Tamiya PE set along with the kit. Tons of amazing details, and the kit went together like a dream. The difficulty on the two-tone paint, decals and masking was something I struggled with for two months. I destroyed one body on account of a failed primer adhesion, and repainted countless times to get it right. Had to get a whole new kit to replace parts and decals that had failed along the way. My kids recently have becomes obsessed with the “slug bug” VW beetle, so that will be next hope you enjoy! Have not seen anyone else do this kit or it’s sisters on the forum.
  2. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    I feel you! I have been working on a bear as well. You will get on the other side of this! I finally got my clear coat on and looking at the other side of it. Here is my pain if you want to share paint-destruction experiences. Had to buy a whole additional kit just to make up for my mistakes.
  3. 570S

    Looks really fantastic!
  4. EPSON NSX 2005 (Super GT) by Tamiya

    Finally ready for clear coat. All the decals are on and completed all touch-ups.
  5. I’m getting the same error message. What does it mean? What is the maximum file size you can upload?
  6. Revell Miata Mk1

    I clearly have a bias, as I always buy the Tamiya kit when available. Since I find the good-removal process annoying (fingerprints), I’m pretty happy with just curbside kids for the most part. I build enough kits with a full engine detail to get my fill. The more I struggle with pour molds, the more my preference for quality increases. with that said, I feel the Original author is doing a great job.
  7. EPSON NSX 2005 (Super GT) by Tamiya

    Added some more detail and finished the border decals. Clear coated the body to “fix” everything in place so I can start repairing the cracked blue paint with a new coat. few comments: those Tamiya metal transfer decals are amazing! That Honda symbol came out great. Hand painting on a body is always very difficult for me. The fuel receptive on the hood and the red backing for the emblem took me 1 hour, 30 cotton swabs, and at least 10 re-do’s. It’s still not perfect, but it was good enough for the clear coat. I have a much easier time hand-painting interior and engine parts as they usually have sharper contours and are less visible. 🤷🏽‍♂️
  8. Revell Miata Mk1

    Super curious: any particular reason you chose the revel kit over the Tamiya kit? Looking great so far!
  9. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    Love this! How much was the Hobby Design Kit? I sometimes destroy my kits in the process of building so I’m anxious about splurging. Very inspiring though!
  10. EPSON NSX 2005 (Super GT) by Tamiya

    The border decals were pretty tough as they have to straddle the two-tone seam line. They are in and drying with some Tamiya decal solvent. Got the blue on, and still experienced sporadic cracking of the paint. My new strategy is to get the major decals onto the body and hit it with a layer of 2k clear. The hope is that it will set the paint in place and stop anymore random cracking. It will also set the decals which are bordering the cracks so I can mask over them and cover up the cracking. Finally going to hit the whole body with another layer of 2k clear to set everything in place.
  11. When to remove masking tape?

    Thanks for all the feedback! Especially Bill's detailed response. So I believe I followed all of the directions provided by bill. I have a good understanding of what happened now, and some improvements I will make in the future. 1) I definitely need to sand the surface with 1500-2000 grit in the future! I was not diligent enough on this. 2) the tamiya yellow paint is phenomenal. I never have any problems and always peel it the way Bill described. I even use heat sometimes to soften the tape and paint a little. 3) most of the flaking effect I experienced is from the "tape for curves" which is the same material as electrical tape. It is smooth, and the paint does not adhere to it. Therefore, if the paint thickness is too great it does not do a great job of "sheering" the paint. If grabs clumps of paint from on top of the masking tape. This is really what is happening here. The flaking you see is not bleeding under the tape and it is not pulling away from the surface of the model, but rather grabing chunks of paint from on top of the smooth surface of the electrical tape (masking tape for curves). I will spray a thinner paint layer in the future for these types of seams. I also never have this problem with the acrylic tamiya paint using this masking tape.
  12. When to remove masking tape?

    Thanks guys. So I am using Tamiya tape for sure. Combination of the tape for curves and the regular yellow Stuff. The tearing you see if bits of paint that was folded on top of the masking tape. It is “tearing” the paint when I remove the masking tape, and pulling bits of paint off the masking tape. It’s not removing paint from the body, but rather grabbing bits of paint from on top of the tape. Ah well. I could try the knife recommendation next time
  13. When to remove masking tape?

    So it didn’t turn out so great :/ tore the seam between the masking and the body when I removed the paint. I waited about 10 minutes. Any tips for next time? I’m going to sand the seam to make it more even. Maybe I just applied too many layers of paint.
  14. "Gulf" LHD Super 7

    gorgeous build!!!
  15. Airbrushing lacquer onto primer and a base coat for two-tone body. When do you remove your masking tape? when the newly applied paint is still "soft" an hour after last application, or 24/48 hours later when it is cured and more brittle? always wondered which method produced cleaner lines. I am using zero paints and tamiya masking tape.