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About bobcrozier

  • Rank
    MCM Regular
  • Birthday 05/07/1952

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  • Website URL http://

Previous Fields

  • Scale I Build 1/24

Profile Information

  • Location Hertfordshire UK

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bobcrozier's Activity

  1. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Multimaverick part 2   

    That should be an awesome collection!

    Check out completed pics in the under glass section

  2. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Multimaverick   

    I didn't think of that!
    That would have made more sense.

  3. bobcrozier added a topic in Under Glass   

    and again!

    • 0 replies
  4. bobcrozier added a topic in Under Glass   

    Multimaverick again!

    • 3 replies
  5. bobcrozier added a topic in Under Glass   

    Finally finished her up

    Turned up the headlights on the lathe. Left a little pip in the middle for the bulb which I picked out in clear yellow. Headlight glass was punched out from 15 thou clear, with a hatch pattern scratched in.
    Glued em in with a little clear enamel.
    BMF'd front and rear bumpers, Painted and installed chute with a few shroud lines and release chord.
    Installed rear lenses and lights, Glass work (inscribed a line seperating the door window fom the the rear section). internal tinwork painted Humbrol polished aluminium.
    Master cylinders,steering wheel, instrument panel,etc finished up

    • 2 replies
  6. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Multimaverick part 2   

    Cheers guys - The springs were made from 22awg tinned copper wire wound around a 2mm drill blank and then given two coats of tamiya clear blue.

    Done a bit more since - nearly finished - will post completed pics soon

  7. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Multimaverick part 2   

    Hi Guys

    Got just the front steering links, track bar etc to put on, plus the dashboard/steering wheel combo, and while i think about it the parachute cords could do with a mounting point, but I may let that slip my mind! :

    Front axle mounted up with the shocks attached now - (my god that was fiddly).

    Check the odd gas pedal location - I can assure you the real car had pedals either side of the transmission hump. George must have had great faith in his scattersheild to sit with his legs akimbo like that!!

    PE buckles and the seat cut down a little to make it sit right under the roll cage. gear shift scratchmade.

    At the back - wheelie bars, brake line & the batteries wired.

    Dashboard ready to go in - home made decals and bezels - dual brake cylinders and pedals.

    Hope you like

  8. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Wild Willie Borsch's Charger FC   

    Revell's Tony Foti's Police Camaro has a nice blown BBC in it:

    Its got the Milodon rocker covers however, dont know if thats a problem

  9. bobcrozier added a post in a topic B/Stock '64 GTO   

    Great car - great photography too. All just as it should be - right down to the cheater slicks and capped pipes! beautiful model of a beautiful car.

  10. bobcrozier added a topic in Drag Racing Models   

    Multimaverick part 2
    New driver cage replacing the assymetric kit one.

    Scrapped the suspension and made new shocks and springs.

    Paint was biggest headache. First time round - all paint done, gave it a clear coat, instant bubbling! Both paints acrylics, but colour coats - tamiya air brushed, clear coats - Humbrol. Anyways one bath of brake fluid later I started over. I took the opportunity to get the paint a bit more accurate. The original job was a couple of shades too dark.

    Decals - a mixture of homemade (Chapman Race Cars, MULTIMAVERICK, and the big Mr. gasket), kit supplied & SLIXX.

    I now need to start putting it all together!!

    • 25 replies
  11. bobcrozier added a topic in Drag Racing Models   

    Multimaverick part 1
    Seen one or two of these made up and they all look great when done, but as for it being an anywhere near accurate representation of Ohio George's Maverick - forget it!

    So I set about reworking the Hobby Heaven re-release.
    Things to go:

    Massive rear arches - I used the spare fenders from the front and cut them into the rear arches (I used the stretched wheelbase fenders on the car making it the barely-run altered version), ,

    The enormous hood-long scoop now smaller and shorter.

    B-pillars removed.

    Radiator grille panelled over (I didn't use the kit part - too thick).

    Engine pretty much stock, but turned up pullies, magneto, fuel pump e.t.c. and plumbed and wired. The Multimaverick had a dual drive from the water pump for the fuel pump and magneto, so they were scratch-made too.

    Chassis extensively reworked. Kit chassis one of the more accurate parts of the car, but looks more like one of George's earlier Mustangs, particularly that bizzare bent front axle.


    NEW ONE!!

    • 1 reply
  12. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Purple Power to strip paint   

    I use mainly brake fluid to strip and it usually works well with most paints. The only thing that seems to hold it back is Humbrol clear coat (acrylic), but yeah if I rub the clear coat down a bit it seems to grab it and then the paint underneath goes quick.

  13. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Thinking about building a slingshot dragster   

    Anyone know which issue that was? I'd sure like to track that article down.

  14. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Thinking about building a slingshot dragster   

    There's probably quite a few ways of doing this, but I made myself a magnetic jig consisting of a 10" x 8" magnetic sheet (sort of a vinyl-like)
    glued down to a similar sized piece of 5/8" plyboard plus several small blocks of metal which were offcuts from a 1" x 1" bar of mild steel.I think Micromark make a similar unit (or used to!)

    Then I draw the chassis out on graph paper full size,and tape it down on to the board. Then taking plastic rod cut it to length on the plan and hold it in place on the drawing with pins (the vinyl sheet was rubbery enough to take a pin) and or adhesive tape. Then every so often tack the rods together with liquid poly like mekpak or similar. Don't forget to "fishmouth" the rods together for a good fit. Make two sides this way. Then a liile superglue applied to each joint with a wooden toothpick re-inforces each joint and provides a realistic "welded" look. at this point manufacture those little gussets, brackets and engine mounts etc.

    When both sides were complete I attached using double-sided tape each frame to the side of a 3/4" square short length of wood batten so they can be stood up. Then I drew two lines representing the converging frame rails and positioned the two side frames in position relative to each other. Then cut the cross-wide rods to join the two sides together. Glue and reinforce as before. The trickiest part is joining up the rear of the frames. Gentle heat and a gentle touch and bend your rod to represent the curved rails and hoops at the rear. Draw it all out as much as you can to avoid surprises and get a feel for it.

    Good luck

  15. bobcrozier added a post in a topic Early Drag Roadster   

    Looking really good - nicely down in the weeds. Maybe you could leave it in primer - keep it low bucks!