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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. You should hop over to FSM forums under military aircraft, without doubt someone there would know. They aren't real active forums there but the knowledge base is quite amazing when it comes to things military.
  2. Just wanted to update one thing on this Createx and my spraying. Where I had said I used the large tip on the Paasche H with great results, well I've since shot it with a Paasche VL both medium tip and small tip or known in the world of Paasche as the #3 (.73) and #1 (.55) also with good results but with more instant control. That's it, just updating.
  3. No I've not had clumping with any of the colors I use including the white.. At their 10% ratio I have had minor thickening as the paint sits but I seem to think that was blue, black etc.. But no clumping at any rate. I have not had the thickening at 20% reduction or when adding in 4030 balancing clear as is suggested when painting Createx over hard surfaces like plastic model. Or 4050 rather than 4030 for that matter. Now I mostly shoot Createx on to textiles with no additive, reducer or otherwise.. On models I use 4011 and 4030, about 15% each. But I rarely use Createx on models. Well anyway, no clumping.
  4. 5741 looks to be pretty close to the photo color. Just needs the right lighting. But that just an opinion.
  5. Yes lighting really effects that color, in some images it's almost a peach tone. Great subject for a build though and good pick for a color too.
  6. Half that glow you see on the 56 pictured is lighting. It's not that exotic a color in real except maybe at sunset. To me it's a color where close enough would be close enough especially given it's not metallic.
  7. For that build I personally would order the enamel from MCW. Very OEM. Any of the primers mentioned plus also Mr Primer Surfacer would work well with the enamel. Mike will mix it if he doesn't already offer it in enamel. But enamel is what Ford used in those years. Just my preference. I'm doing a 1/16 57 T Bird in Ocean Mist enamel.
  8. Go ahead Mike but I'm headed upstairs so the reply will probably be tomorrow. I've been out of 1/1 for a decade so hope I can help. Things change lol.
  9. For Jon or anyone interested: Update, I found the spec sheet for the UVLS clears and clarification on Jon's question, 4053 can be used over Candy 2o. It comes with some criteria though. They prefer two sessions, the first is two to three coats , then 4 hour cure time and then second 2-3 coats. No scuffing between coats unless 48 hours passes. If scuffing is needed they suggest a dry scuff with 600 sand paper for say dust spots or whatever. On another note and you guys can wing it here but they recommend cleaning the airbrush with their cleaner or 4011.
  10. I'm not sure on the 4053, I do know that if you used 4050 you need a coat or two of 4040 bleed checker over the candy as the candy would probably rise right up through the clear otherwise. But where 4053 is not a carrier for the candy I'm not sure that would happen and I have not tried it. It would have to be tested. 4030 and 4050 are both used as Candy 2o carriers, 4053 is not. I can say that Candy 2o was made to have catalyzed clears put over it like 2K clear. I'm reasonably sure lacquer would work as well. Those are my thoughts but I have no proof that 4053 could be used as top coat for the candy without 4040 bleed checker.
  11. I buff it with Formula 1 Scratch out, then dry buff to the luster I want. Took the haze right out in one application. I would think any really fine polishing liquid would do the same thing. The Scratch out is very fine, almost no grit really. So easy to shoot with that #5 Paasche tip. You may or may not have seen where I mentioned thinning the 4050 35-40% with 4011. Stirred it real good, let the cup sit still for 3-4 minutes and shot it. I flashed it off between coats but not as much as the yellow base. The yellow base I let go completely dull between coats. Everything leveled out beautifully when dry. I used 4030 and 4011 in the yellow, about 15% each. Very pleased, we will use this on the AMT 1/32 60 T- Bird. If I chicken out I do have pretty close to the same yellow in Tamiya acrylic gloss. But the Createx plus the 4030 over white primer is closer to the target color.
  12. I put on three coats of the 4050 with a heavy nozzle Mike. That's not counting the first dust coat I put down, if you want to get technical I guess that's 4 coats. Got it all dry and just buffed it up. It was not difficult to buff at all IMO. But it wasn't satisfactory without buffing to my eye either. I'll be curious to hear how guys get along with the 4053. I'm happy with the 4050 for my level of gloss. It looks natural over solid colors at least, I was going to shoot pearl today and clear that but it hasn't been that kind of day. I don't know where this day has gotten to actually, they keep going by faster and faster.
  13. Most of my model car painting is done with the H and #3 fwiw. I use my Badger 200 and .25 for lacquers though, always have. My double action I use in art work and T Shirts, I never in 60 years of building models have used double action on painting models, never saw the need. But that's me, things don't have to be my way. I'd order a VL from Spraygunner myself but they only list the VLS not the plain VL. The VLS has the screw mounted bottle flange and I don't want that, plus it's out of stock anyway. They do list a Millenium with aluminum handle though.
  14. I'm using a garden hose compared to yours Joh ! And while I see no need to change that I'll grant that it may be over kill. I did this with the Paasche H and #5 tip. Certainly try the .5 as thats the minimum Createx reluctantly suggests for use with airbrushing 4050. They really like .7 or more. I'm right in line with a 1.0 for that product really. The 4053 will be more suited to the .5 if properly thinned but a .7 wouldn't even hurt then. I'm looking to go to a Paasche VL to get to the .7 and 1.0 tips in double action for the T Shirts. Like you my double action brush is .3 and frankly it struggles, especially given you don't want the paint too thinned out on fabrics, it just saturates the cloth and no color. But one day I stenciled a cloth place mat and used the H, white paint, no thinner and that #5 tip, it sprayed like magic. But you can't free hand letters very well with single action,fine on model cars. Here is a video on 4053. It's part 1 of 2, it should link you to part 2:
  15. Jim, with the 4050 I was able to spray that down real smooth with the blend I mentioned. It could be left alone but it gets that slight acrylic haze thing going on once dry. I found it just took one application of Formula 1 Scratch out and a good rubbing dry to get a very realistic finish from it. The 4053 is supposed to be better yet but it may start into that wet look I'm not looking for. I want the natural classic car era finishes. I can get that with enamel but this is danged close maybe to call close enough, no stink and not week long waiting for cure times. I thought it was note worthy info from Createx that they say Pearl, metallics and Candy 2o stay better suspended in 4050 than in 4053 though. They still suggest 4030 or 4050 for mixing into colors or candy into it, for the poly cross over too, 4050 to suspend as mentioned, 4053 is top coat only. 4050 and 53 both give UV protection though. 4030 can still be used as intercoat between two tone colors or more. All in all I'm getting to like this system for more than Christian T Shirt painting as I was using it for. It's quite a system of professional grade paints and odor free essentially.
  16. I did a test shoot today on a medicine bottle in prep for a yellow 1960 Ford T Bird. But I shot the test with white Stynylrez and then Opaque primary Yellow Createx mixed with 10-15% 4030 and about 15% 4011. I shot the test with the Paasche H and #5 tip and it went on beautiful. I cooked it in the dehydrator for 15 minutes or so and over shot that with 4050 UV clear thinned about 40% with 4011 ( this stuff reminds of Liquitex varnish only the Liquitex is thinner viscosity out of the bottle). Three coats which leveled out real nice. I air dried that for about an hour then cooked it in the dehydrator. It's very smooth but I noticed after fully drying it needs a bit of polishing. I started out with some scratch out polishing compound but noticed dry buffing went well too.. Looks fine. I noticed now at Hobby Lobby they have the 4053 High Gloss clear I've seen instructional videos on. This stuff is supposed to stay clearer when dry thus higher gloss. Anyone used that ? Just curious. The 4050 looks fine and polished I believe it's going to give me the natural shine I'm looking for on the old cars. Anyway that was today's airbrush adventure. Yes I know it doesn't match the thread title but someone mentioned 4050 within this thread. I can say I've tried that. Tomorrow I'm testing shooting pearls on plastic, same sequence of materials and events.
  17. You'll be surprised how well you will get along with that. I built mine 25" wide and it's been fine for me including 1/16 scale cars. I don't do big ships but if I did, when I think big even 36 wide probably wouldn't do it anyway.
  18. I'd take more two door sedans for that matter but 30's-50's. I know I'm probably the odd man out on this but I love the old hump trunks I guess. Something different than coupes and roadsters. But the modeling market itself isn't enormous to begin with, never mind the odd stuff. Well unless it was popular odd stuff.
  19. Not really Mike, it's more like 60 years of overcoming challenges, not just in models but 1/1..
  20. I can't even leave rattle cans alone Mike, I decent them to airbrush the paint ! Course in my mind that needs tweaking with adding thinner. Except clear lacquer, I will shoot that from the can but not always.
  21. You must be talking about 3 step enamel rattle cans then. 1 Shake,2 spray,3 put the can back on the shelf !! Because we departed from KISS first when coming from rattle cans to airbrushing and all it's components/ mechanical features, then compounded it with craft paint and further with Createx and it's vast array of materials/systems and colors.
  22. Thanks and nice work.. Ya I have craft paints spraying almost like solvents in many cases. In my quest to formulate the thinner, I concluded one in particular is awesome for Craft Smart, Annitas, Martha Stewart, Folk Art and Apple Barrel and one or two others. Through the years ( about 7-8 actually with craft paints) have vasolated between flow aids from Liquitex, glycerin and dish soap. I've concluded in that blend that a trace element of dish soap wins in those paints ( and I really mean a trace element of it, less than a drop in 3oz of thinner blend). But it is not a fits all thinner, there are a couple of brands of craft paints that need different formulation. I've got a couple of other formulas that work well, perfectly acceptable and even work in the brands above but not quite that shoot down much like solvent based paints and they alter the sheen slightly in flat paints to a semi matte. You need to be more careful getting on a faint first coat or so, then its fine. And it takes a little air flash drying between coats then levels out awesome. Anyway happy shooting ! I'll try some denatured alcohol in my secondary formula, its half the fun of this hobby to experiment IMO.
  23. If the 4011 worked in the craft paint, might as well just use that Mike . I've never tried that so have no gauge for comparison.
  24. These are all very natural looking paint jobs Craig, and I like that. It offers a realistic appeal to me at least.
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