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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. I just tack things together with the Testors orange tube glue. Just a tack drop here and there, it will come apart pretty easy. If I really want to glue something solidly I use the Testors black bottle liquid glue, or more liquid than the orange tube anyway.
  2. With solvent paints sometimes I prime sometimes I don't. I have models painted in 1974ish with no primer shot in enamel that are basically still fine. Back then I was using both Pactra and Testors enamels so I don't know what's on these or which might have what.
  3. Well Grumpy ran Vegas with and without spoilers up front. You can see that in old photos and posters. Don't recall if USA did or didn't etc. Probably depends on year.
  4. I don't sand metallics before clear coat fwiw. It can cause blotchy looking areas even change the tone of the base color. I've never had a problem with the clear coat peeling etc.. I have sanded the base color then shot another coat of base to even it up though. Kinda depends what paints you're working with too.
  5. Mike, I haven't been using it lately and maybe I mentioned it already but I always in the past had good luck with gloss and no orange peel with the Rustoleum lacquer in the green can with the big chair on the front. I believe it's non acrylic lacquer. It buffs up easy too if you need to. I suspect it will go over craft paints fine. I know the green can lacquer with the big chair on the front from Rustoleum does and with Stynylrez primer under it. I personally have found craft paints to barrier fine against lacquer clears thus far, better than some solvent paints really. Admittedly not having shot the Duplicolor clear over them but other lacquers have been fine.
  6. I never have liked solvent based acrylic lacquer on plastic models or even in 1/1 for that matter. There are tons of other products out there. I use several different clears to include nitro lacquer but try to stay away from acrylic lacquer solvent based. Just me, others love the stuff.
  7. Ya, they have several colored clears that come out candy-ish. But their X22 is straight clear. I use other clears too though. Those clear colors are handy in other ways too though, like green clear over green base comes out super deep for instance. Lately I've been playing with Shellac as clear coat. I haven't air brushed it yet, I'll share it if it takes off for me. I've using that on ornaments this year and the finish has been phenomenal on those. So I'm back to craft paints on prescription bottles and top coating with shellac. Just haven't felt like decanting . I'm playing with another thinner recipe for craft paints at the same time, so I've more been testing that out than the clear coat up to this point.
  8. The primer was white Stynylrez with a drop of black in it, so kind of platinum. The silver which doesn't show in the photo is actually called rose gold, it is more silver than gold though in that particular brand but depending on your monitors color balance you might pick up a hint of the very faint underlying rose in it.. So the silver is a craft paint base coat thinned with my own thinner formula, the name is Rose Gold and the brand is Craft Smart which not my favorite craft paint. That's about 4 coats you see there, might even be 5. The blue is more like the 5-6 but progressively wetter coats till the final full wet coat . So as you can imagine I shoot the stuff pretty thinned out. The clear blue was thinned with Lacquer thinner. The Stynylrez on that model I don't recall how I thinned it but these days I thin that with lacquer thinner as well. I rarely shoot straight Stynylrez almost always thinning it. Because if you start with a rough primer coat it gets worse and worse as more colors are added. Stynylrez with LT goes on baby bottom smooth.
  9. The top photo is Base coat ( Craft Smart craft paint) followed in the second photo with Tamiya clear blue acrylic. Not polished , straight out of the dehydrator after drying in both cases.
  10. Well, Mike says he's shooting acrylics. Different animal that needs a different approach than with solvent based paints.
  11. The two mist coats approach works well with acrylics and flash dry or heat set both/each one before laying on heavier coats. It's not needed with solvent paints in my experience. Start right out with medium and go progressively wetter especially with enamels.
  12. I just use craft paints mostly for brushing interiors and engines. Thin it maybe about 30% or so.Paint my engines the same way. I makes washes from either craft paints or artist acrylics too. But prime first before anything, don't try to cover bare plastic. I don't thin a whole batch of paint, I put some on a painters palette and either water or my home brew thinner in one of the wells,usually the thinner. grab some thinner on the brush then the paint mix that up. Add paint or thinner as needed till it flows off the brush right. One to two coats should cover fine. If you want to use model paint try Vallejo model Color for brushing. You'll need some flow aid too. I thin Tamiya with Liquitex retarder for brush painting, works great. Just enough so it flows off the brush, don't overlap your strokes but butt them together and they will flow right out. Yep, even Tamiya suggests retarder for brush painting, course they want you to use theirs, Liquitex works fine and I always have it on hand. 25-40% retarder in the blend, nothing else. That might work in the craft paint too but I haven't tried it . Course you can always use Testors flat enamels, the old standard. Just buy a set of flats, mix as needed. I'm not afraid to mix colors, be that acrylics or enamels. Then I airbrush a mixed up batch of Liquitex varnishes to get the sheen I want. Course with acrylics you can mix them right into the paint.
  13. I won't address the compressor brand outright, cause that can go on and on, and I use a noisy 8 gal portable. The good news is I only air it up once or twice a week unless inflating car tires or running household nail guns and such. But as to the hose, most compressors have a 1/4" fitting. You can get either a hose with the 1/4"on one end and Badger fitting on the other or you can go all Badger hose and get a 1/4" to Badger adapter. Amazon has the adapters . I've done adapters 1/4 to Badger and also 1/4 to Paasche. You can also get quick disconnects for Badger. You gotta watch out for some cheap airbrush only dedicated compressors that don't have a true standard 1/4" connector on them and you end up with gobs of plumbers tape, over tightening and it still leaks. If I'm not mistaken the Point Zero is not like that, it's an import like others but they corrected that unlike some others. If you get a more household silent running portable like the Fortress and others mentioned in the thread you will get the true 1/4" connector. I believe Badger compressors have Badger connectors on them but I'm not 100% sure. I know they're costly for what they are though. I've never owned a dedicated airbrush compressor, I've adapted from from 200 gal systems, 150 gal systems, 30 gal 8 gal, 16 gal through the years. I use whatever I got on hand. At one time I adapted a propane tank as a portable air tank lol. Not to scientific here, make it work .
  14. Yes sure. But I didn't address your question that if you were to use lacquer or enamels with a booth in the house, would you offend sensitive nosed people in another room.. To which a properly used booth should do fine. Some lacquers have a highly offensive initial smell when sprayed and out-gassing when first drying but dry quickly. Enamels have high odor, to me not as offensive as the worst lacquers but much longer term out gassing when drying. So it isn't just about spraying but the drying feature. A booth plus a paint dryer or dehydrator pretty much negate that whole issue. There are exceptions as noted in an earlier post of the back draft issue. But if you air dry enamel left out in a room someone is not gonna be happy. I dry it in dehydrator mode in an air fryer and there is basically no odor. But I dry all my paints in dehydrator of one form or another. If you want to do enamels in the house and keep peace too, I'd kind of plan on that, not to mention it takes enamels down from days or even weeks of cure time to hours or over night.
  15. I think you have it backwards, keep going with some form of acrylics inside the house. There are some very good ones these days. And when the hankering for lacquers or enamels comes along do that in the nice seasons outdoors or in the shed. You won't need an expensive booth to shoot acrylics in the house and you won't bother yourself, the wife or any pets if there are any. Most any hobby grade booth will do. Heck half the time I shoot into the kitchen trash can. Tamiya acrylic shot with Denatured alcohol as thinner produces lacquer like results. Your craft paints done right, thinned correctly then clear coated with one of a number of different low toxicity clear coats can come out well above hacker standards and your wife won't smell a thing. Vallejo Model Air paints for base coating or so called color coating actually have a pleasant sweet low odor to them. Then clear coat with X-22 Tamiya. My latest experiment in clear is Bulls Eye clear shellac as clear ( skip the amber, you won't be happy). I used that on hand made Christmas ornaments this year as beside my wood turned ones I did acrylic pouring,then shot them with the spray can Bulls Eye. Perfect finish, see every light on the tree reflecting off these things and I just shot those into the trusty trash can as well ! It's not a product for humid weather but it works good in winter with house heat and dry air. I use Liquitex varnishes a lot too, low to no odor.. You have a ton of options for indoor painting that won't stir up others in the house.
  16. With the Paasche H and medium needle, decanted 2X or the older Painters Touch, with a touch of lacquer thinner added I can get 4- 5 really nice wet smooth coats down on my model parts and not have the film thickness of one or two coats from the can. The finish has been quite beautiful doing this. But I suspect folks want to rattle can because they don't want to airbrush, so for them the airbrush is a moot point. The best I can say if that's the case is to heat the can so it's comfortably warm to the touch. I don't recommend boiling water as one member suggested. There is a limit to how hot then it gets dangerous. As you heat the can in hot water, pick it up and re-shake it repeated times till it doesn't go cold when you shake it. Then you know the paint is warm all the way through. This adds pressure but more importantly, lowers viscosity of the paint.
  17. Craft paints are closer in nature to Vallejo Model Color than to Tamiya. Pigments are finer and denser in the Vallejo. I use Vallejo or craft paints for your purpose, mostly craft paints. But everything is primed on my models though fwiw. I prime all the parts but the body right on the sprue then touch up later. I put my craft paint on a painters pallet and a little water or thinner near by. A touch of water in it will help flow and get rid of brush strokes. With Vallejo you use their flow aid. And with Tamiya you use retarder for brush painting. Craft Smart is fine for what you want to do. I've gone from spraying my engines to brushing them with craft paints myself in fact. Then weather with oil stains that are water clean up ( don't ask, it just works that way, no clue how, there are water clean up oil stains out there now and oil paints too).
  18. This has got to be batch problems or age or something . Rustoleum would be out of business if every can was bad. Makes no sense. When I was still working I bought the stuff by the case for small parts painting and remember the one incident from one case lot of the industrial grade Rustoleum not the 2x. I kept white, red and semi gloss black as I recall. Primer was Krylon, grey and red oxide. All mostly used on interior heater boxes or under hood etc. Also I always heated the cans under hot water and shook for at least three minutes. Having cases on hand means longer storage with lesser used colors and as mentioned above my post, things settle. That's after the agitator ball frees up if it's stuck which does happen. So heat, get the ball free which can take some time shaking, then the minimum 3 minutes shaking. Right now I have gloss Apple Red, Ocean Mist, Satin Wild Flower and Aqua which will buff up gloss if you want that. I also have the plaint Painters Touch which was out before 2X, in White. These all spray fine but I prefer to decant and thin further with a little lacquer thinner. The finish comes out as nice as Model Master ever did, shot through the Paasche H medium needle at around 25-30 psi.. 12 oz for $5.99 is a lot better than MCW for $10+ per oz plus shipping.
  19. I noticed Micheals has a line of Krylon spray in smaller cans than at the hardware stores. Never tried them, never looked to even see what they are in terms of paint type. Could be acrylic for all I know. But I don't spray can anything, if I use them I decant and shoot with the H. Clear lacquer goes well from a can, that thing goes according to the day for me, can vs H and my mood lol.
  20. Well for me those tones and parchment and such I'm more likely to be using acrylics for anyway. Too bad it doesn't work though. I recall a can of Rustoleum I had at work ( retired in 2014 so a while ago), popped the top pushed the nozzle and this stringy stuff like RTV or something came out and wouldn't shut off, it emptied itself in the trash bin in the shop.
  21. I just decant and use the H with a touch of lacquer thinner added. No trouble yet, mostly shooting 40's and 50's solid pastel colors. Shoots, to me at least, like any other enamel. Can't speak for Krylon, haven't used that in over a decade but it was ok back then.
  22. You've shot it a few times with the same result, is it all from the same can though ? Thinking you got a dud can there.
  23. Createx is acrylic. It's much like a soft body artist paint, high pigment designed originally for fabrics and T shirt artists. It remains flexible.
  24. I use it all the time, now it's not my first choice in craft paints but they do work absolutely fine if you understand them.. They are thinner than most so you don't thin quite as much so it takes an extra coat or two and dries fine in terms of film thickness.. In the thread on Folk Art craft paints both examples I posted were base coated in Craft Smart Rose Gold. My thinner combo mentioned in that same thread works very well in Craft Smart. You just may need an extra coat or two compared with Folk Art as already mentioned. I noticed lately that my local Micheals store is really plugging Craft Smart and the secondary line is more Deco Art and far less FolkArt than they used to have. I did a 39 ford sedan, bought three different craft paints and once again settled on a green that happened to be Craft Smart. Then clear coated that with X-22 Tamiya. Came out quite nice. I shot 3 base color coats. Scuffed the roof and shot 2 more. When I say coats I mean I Shot a coat flashed it off, then the next etc. It's hugely affected by the color primer you use, I shot three test shots before shooting the body, one over white, grey and black. The black won and that's what I used on the sedan. If i can dredge up a photo later I will post it in this thread. It's stock so I didn't go for wet look with it but traditional 1939 finish look. I do confess that on these old cars craft paints work but enamel is more my go to and I could do an entire thread on just enamel alone since I've been shooting it for 60+ years + 35 1/1. Craft paints and acrylics only 4-5. I took two years to learn the ways in all sorts of test shoots of various craft and acrylic paints, it became a fun and educational hobby in itself ! Edit: the photos aren't worth posting, apparently on my computer I saved thumbnails.
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