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Dave G.

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Everything posted by Dave G.

  1. That 2x red should shoot awesome through an airbrush. I've shot it straight from the can and it turned out great but the can gives a hose job to where a single coat is about it on a model. That's all I'll say except through an airbrush it should come out as nice as the other of the 2x line.. I stick with MCW or Scale Finishes only when I want an exact match but usually close enough is good enough for me and enamels work best for me because I've been shooting them since 1960. Also add that acrylics with a clear coat work well too in some cases. I don't like MCW lacquer, tried and the thinner he uses is too fast in the auto paints for me. I'd rather thin it myself, ended up with tons of polishing but the color is correct. And it's already too thin to add retarder so that option is out the window. I won't buy it again anyway where he has the enamel line out now..
  2. If you want to decant something Get Rustoleum 2x , thin it an extra 10% or a bit more with lacquer thinner. Use the Yost method with that, it's sprays like any other enamel, comes out great and you get 12oz for about 5-6 bucks right at your hardware store. Airbrushes great, done it many times. For Lacquer I'd go with Tamiya Lp lacquers in the little bottles thinned with Mr Leveling thinner. I shot this in black and it came out awesome. Look for a Barbados Rex video on you tube for using that product. He did about a 40 minute video on it if I remember right.
  3. The original MPC 28 Lincoln kit that I built back in the mid 1970's is my only recall, I don't recall it being finicky, I can't speak of newer iterations though. I also don't recall working steering on that version. But that's a long time ago and it's not to say it didn't have it and I bypassed it. I built that right after building the Monogram Classic Duesenberg Dual Cowl, to which I had previously built several of the Monogram Classic kits and as mentioned more than once now in the thread here, are straight forward builds.. Both turned out very nice at any rate. I still have them stashed in a box wrapped in paper towels and last I looked at them they could use a bit of reconstruction at this point. I don't recall that iteration MPC 28 Lincoln having any quirks about it. And I have not built later ones nor the newly released Gangbusters 32 Chrysler. I seem to recall though the Monograms are a bit stronger building/handling, the plastic felt more stout from the MPC plastic but I'm really digging into these old memory banks on that lol. I remember my at the time and now past on relatively new wife being quite taken by both model results ( she loved those old classic cars as much as I do).
  4. Yep, so I flipped the name Connoisseur, That was under AMT and MPC. The Monogram classic cars are listed just Classic. One of these days I'll land a good buy on the Monogram Classic 1930 Packard 4 door Speedster phaeton. Right now the 32 Chrysler in MPC is listed Gangbusters.
  5. Yes and yes to Monogram in 1/24. The Classic series and later releases were Connoisseur Classic. I've enjoyed those many moons ago and wouldn't mind them again. In 1/25 you have MPC in the late 20's-30's era classic cars, most notably Lincoln being among those in a couple of iterations. Those in the latest release are the Gangbusters series, I believe there is a new release on a Caddy or maybe it is the 28 Lincoln ( oops just looked it up , 32 Chrysler is freshly released and in well stocked stores for sure and I believe the 28 Lincoln is still around). Both companies though are pretty straight forward building they build nice with no real tricks to over come but not much for working items. Your own detailing helps, attention to accurate paint etc. I can speak on Entex and Minicraft in 1/16. There are some nice old stock kits still out there, of those two there are a lot of parts in both brands but Minicraft likes to throw in a hurdle or two to jump in my experience anyway. You're looking at 200+ parts in some of the Entex kits though. Italeri I have not worked with, I'd listen to those who have. I've done some Minicraft Model A's and the door hinges are both a royal PITB to work with and inaccurate and they are right there out in the open on the doors. The instructions are vague as in use your imagination quite a bit, hope you're good with inaccurate pictures. They's a bit of a puzzle kind of thing to build but the engine and drive line look good, in scale etc..
  6. I do stuff like that too often lol ! And meanwhile Napa could probably mixed up a touch up bottle for about $10. I just cut the Napa paints with cheap lacquer thinner.
  7. Edit: Good info ! Moot point now that he's going yellow I suppose but just wanted to add. Going by the charts for the 59 Cadillac, white was offered in Dover White or Olympic White, the only two whites listed. Also the same Dover was listed for Chrysler that year. Here is the link: http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?model=Cadillac&year=1959&con=yo . No contention here just added info for anyone interested.. I know Pete put up a chart as well.
  8. True and I dehydrate all my paints these days. Not everyone has one though.
  9. The last time I was at Michael's they had it but that was back around Dec 2021. I don't use it though, so can't answer the OP question about dry times. I know back about 15 years ago when I did use Krylon it dried pretty quickly ( certainly touch dry sometime the same day and workable overnight). I've heard the formula has changed since those days. No idea in what way.
  10. I'm holding off refinishing a Monogram Duesenberg I built over 40 years ago. Repainting the body because I ran out of the blue for the body and used a different batch of paint on the hood. It never was an exact match though close. But over the years it's even further off now. I'm doing a whole tear down when I get to it since some parts could use re gluing as well. I'm going to refinish the whole body including hood and I may do the fenders over as well ( the fenders are not blue but the paint is in great shape). So I guess my point is rather than try and match the nose maybe paint the entire model since in time things can shift. In my case I can probably just scuff and refinish, it's all enamel with no clear coat. Other than color match the paint is in great shape. I'll just do enamel again. If it were clear coated I'd strip the paint though. And that may just be your best bet as well.
  11. I can see the hotter automotive lacquers maybe upsetting the milder primers like Tamiya. But not so much the enamel. As to Duplicolor that's made to be under hot automotive lacquer anyway. I suspect Mr Color to be a bit hotter than Tamiya as well.
  12. I suspect that the Pledge Revive It Floor Gloss is either the replacement or similar item. And I have not tried it since really I don't even use the Floor Care which is basically Future. I have the Floor Care, use it in test shoots for model paint schemes and things non model building where I want to see the effect of a clear finish quickly..
  13. I have the 57 under way but it on hold at this point. Thus far picking color lol. The under body is all painted. And the grill and hub cap wash is done on mine. When I first got this kit I posted pictures of the body because I got a bunch of messages how the windshield frames had come through broken in earlier versions of this kit. As you know with this kit there is a piece of sprue supporting the frame now. As yet I have not cut that away. Looks like a straight forward easy typical AMT build to me. I anticipate no Issues with door hinges. It should be good experience for you if you've never done hinges before.. Course I say that just coming off MiniCrafts Model A 1/16 scale door hinges which are a basic nightmare. This is going to be so easy ! Much like the 57 Fairlane I imagine only bigger parts to get your mitts on to. I haven't looked at the mold lines much as yet. I don't anticipate a big struggle though. I tend to scrape away the roughest stuff scraping with a hobby knife, then go to those foam fingernail blocks. Then down to micro mesh pads. Prime and see what I've got. This is a bigger body so being level will mater all the more, you don't want it all wavy so I'd avoid just cut sandpaper and bare fingers unless its supported with a block ( I do that as well). Those pads are I think are around 220, 360 and 400 grits. Identified by color and you can get them at any nail salon supply shop. I use them all. If I see sand scratches then I use micro mesh to about 1000 or 1500 then prime. But as Ace said primer should cover the 400 ok, 400 is as far as I went in 1/1 before primer. I just hate sand scratch swelling lol. And believe me I've seen it happen usually with lacquer top coats ( hot lacquer not model lacquers).
  14. I just use Testors clear parts glue, comes in a black bottle. I use it because it is made to glue clear parts, pretty simple theory and doesn't tax the 72 yo brain cells.
  15. I set my 390 Mustang up to basically meet Stock requirements. But my slicks were 11" wide and so they wanted me to go into SS. I would have gotten slaughtered there so ran brackets ( this was 1974). It's funny, those were a certain Hoosier slick and open headers blew them out unless they were practically flat. Open headers also scavanged the carburetor dry and I had to jet up several steps which in turn led to a higher volume fuel pump and cool can. Anyway, So a guy lent me a Super Stock M&H set of slicks only 9" wide and they hooked up solid. Then this small block Chevy racer wanted to buy my Hoosiers because He said he had some before and they hooked up just right with his I believe 327 Corvette in Super Stock so I sold them. But it's weird how the different combos work when you drag race and how the rules play out. But to me in my setup the biggest restriction to meet stock requirements was cam lift unless you got a special grind. At least so with the FE engine. So ditched the stock idea and upped my cam to a 600 lift bracket racing solid lifter cam and just stayed in brackets. By this time the car was not on the street. I only ever trailered my car even when it was still registered. Modified Production ( for that day/era/time period) was nuts but some cars in that class were actually street driven. At my track in NH you were more likely to see a registered MP car than SS. Yet MP was faster back then and more radical. I think it's just SS was a pro class, you would see the factory sponsored cars there. If I could have run B SS I might have tried it but they tried to stick me in A with the 427's and hemis and stuff. Not sure what modeler can reap from my message but all I can say is been there done that and glad I did it.
  16. Ya I do all the jams and door edges first, let dry then tape the doors from the inside obviously ,mostly shut. So I can paint the entire side as if one panel. I've glued up the hinges and all already, the doors are mounted just taped shut. Works for me. Same for hoods, trunks, rumble seats etc. With solid colors I may even brush paint the door jams etc. You won't win painting separate panels from differing angles with a metallic base coat and candy over coat. This is why I mount the parts, then the whole body is taped to something I can hand hold it with so that every side, top, roof area of the body is shot down upon. The spray pattern shoots down only and I turn the body to accommodate that. Also the spray pattern is wide and fairly strong on pressure, thin enough to sort of fog the paint on. Ya it wastes some paint with over spray but it accomplishes my need. 5 progressively wetter but even coats fwiw. Just sayin that's my way, it doesn't have to be anyone elses.
  17. I use Mr Primer Surfacer 1000 and am very satisfied with that product, slightly thinned with their Leveling thinner the finish is very smooth as it self levels. But I buy the jars airbrush it in light grey. But their Mr Surfacer is good too and you can generally find that in 1200 and 1500, as well as more colors. I haven't had the need as yet, the 1000 the way I spray it is baby bottom smooth. Very happy with that. I can't imagine auto primers being this smooth frankly but maybe they don't need to be. And for enamels or acrylics I use Stynylrez. With Stynylrez I'm unconventional and cut it a bit with hardware store lacquer thinner, it lays down very smooth as well.
  18. Good info, thanks ! BMF in 1/32 must be a bit of a task. I've kind of given myself over to Molotow for now. My go to was always MM Melalizer buffing.
  19. I know exactly what you mean Ace ! Now I want to build one for myself,thinking about a his and hers project lol. Course these things aren't inexpensive.
  20. Awesome Steve,thanks for the photos ! But those Gunze 1/32 kits look interesting for a quick build too. And they made a 56. But that 58 is striking indeed. I'm starting to get a vision of Cadillacs stacking up in my stash lol !
  21. Hmmm, 1/32 might be a good starting point for her. That's the scale I first started building in back around 1957- 1959 or so. Looks good !
  22. Don't know on the 59, she accepts the 58 idea but I went on Ebay and the only 58 hardtop I saw was $63. Convertibles were more $30ish. I'll find a 59 photo and run that by her today. Monogram is at least solid and familiar territory for me. As to her heart, originally it was set on 53-55 but found the lines of the 57 nice, to which I agree myself even. Would accept the 58 mentioned within the thread here. 59 is really moving on, not sure on that one but we shall see.. One thing is true from a few videos I watched, that Monogram 59 builds up really nice.
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