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Dave G.

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Posts posted by Dave G.

  1. No I've not had clumping with any of the colors I use including the white.. At their 10% ratio I have had minor thickening as the paint sits but I seem to think that was blue, black etc.. But no clumping at any rate. I have not had the thickening at 20% reduction or when adding in 4030 balancing clear as is suggested when painting Createx over hard surfaces like plastic model. Or 4050 rather than 4030 for that matter. Now I mostly shoot Createx on to textiles with no additive, reducer or otherwise.. On models I use 4011 and 4030, about 15% each. But I rarely use Createx on models. Well anyway, no clumping.

  2. 3 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

    I think that I have to agree that the example that the OP posted appears to lean much more towards the orange side than most examples that you see.

    Normally the color seems to be much closer to a standard pastel pink.





    Although the orange seems to often come out a little more in the sun.







    Yes lighting really effects that color, in some images it's almost a peach tone. Great subject for a build though and good pick for a color too.

  3. For that build I personally would order the enamel from MCW. Very OEM. Any of the primers mentioned plus also Mr Primer Surfacer would work well with the enamel. Mike will mix it if he doesn't already offer it in enamel.  But enamel is what Ford used in those years. Just my preference. I'm doing a 1/16 57 T Bird in Ocean Mist enamel.

  4. For Jon or anyone interested: Update, I found the spec sheet for the UVLS clears and clarification on Jon's question, 4053 can be used over Candy 2o. It comes with some criteria though. They prefer two sessions, the first is two to three coats , then 4 hour cure time and then second 2-3 coats. No scuffing between coats unless 48 hours passes. If scuffing is needed they suggest a dry scuff with 600 sand paper for say dust spots or whatever.

    On another note and you guys can wing it here but they recommend cleaning the airbrush with their cleaner or 4011.

    • Like 1
  5. 19 minutes ago, Jon Haigwood said:

    4030 1/1 with Candy2o then clearing over it with 4053 . 

    I'm not sure on the 4053, I do know that if you used 4050 you need a coat or two of 4040 bleed checker over the candy as the candy would probably rise right up through the clear otherwise. But where 4053 is not a carrier for the candy I'm not sure that would happen and I have not tried it. It would have to be tested. 4030 and 4050 are both used as Candy 2o carriers, 4053 is not. I can say that Candy 2o was made to have catalyzed clears put over it like 2K clear. I'm reasonably sure lacquer would work as well.

    Those are my thoughts but I have no proof that 4053 could be used as top coat for the candy without 4040 bleed checker.

    • Like 1
  6. 6 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

    Man I know what ya mean about the day going by and at my age, 76, its zooming🙄

    My go to Mr Hobby ProCon airbrush is only a #3 tip but I do have a Paasche with a #5.  I guess I should re-try 4050.  Do you just buff it with a soft cloth?

    I buff it with Formula 1 Scratch out, then dry buff to the luster I want. Took the haze right out in one application. I would think any really fine polishing liquid would do the same thing. The Scratch out is very fine, almost no grit really.

    So easy to shoot with that #5 Paasche tip. You may or may not have seen where I mentioned thinning the 4050 35-40% with 4011. Stirred it real good, let the cup sit still for 3-4 minutes and shot it.  I flashed it off between coats but not as much as the yellow base. The yellow base I let go completely dull between coats. Everything leveled out beautifully when dry. I used 4030 and 4011 in the yellow, about 15% each. Very pleased, we will use this on the AMT 1/32 60 T- Bird. If I chicken out I do have pretty close to the same yellow in Tamiya acrylic gloss. But the Createx plus the 4030 over white primer is closer to the target color.

  7. 7 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

    I was just able to revisit thread.  As a Createx user now this is good info. Even tho I have the 4050 I have never tried it. Well I did once but just didnt seem to have much of a shine. 

    Appreciate the new info.

    I put on three coats of the 4050 with a heavy nozzle Mike. That's not counting the first dust coat I put down, if you want to get technical I guess that's 4 coats. Got it all dry and just buffed it up. It was not difficult to buff at all IMO. But it wasn't satisfactory without buffing to my eye either.

    I'll be curious to hear how guys get along with the 4053. I'm happy with the 4050 for my level of gloss. It looks natural over solid colors at least, I was going to shoot pearl today and clear that but it hasn't been that kind of day. I don't know where this day has gotten to actually, they keep going by faster and faster.

  8. 12 minutes ago, Jon Haigwood said:

    Thanks for the advice. I just ordered some 4053 and 4011 (to replenish my supply from sraygunner on ebay. I just watched those videos. I am considering upgrading my NEO to a .5 and revisiting my Paasche  VL and H 

    Most of my model car painting is done with the H and #3 fwiw.  I use my Badger 200 and .25 for lacquers though, always have. My double action I use in art work and T Shirts, I never in 60 years of building models have used double action on painting models, never saw the need. But that's me, things don't have to be my way.

    I'd order a VL from Spraygunner myself but they only list the VLS not the plain VL. The VLS  has the screw mounted bottle flange and I don't want that, plus it's out of stock anyway. They do list a Millenium with aluminum handle though.

  9. 1 hour ago, Jon Haigwood said:

    I was not familiar with the 4053, I have been using the 4050 1:1 with the the Candy2o's reducing with 4011. What tip size are you using ? I have been using a Iwata Neo CN and a Iwata Eclipse HP-CS I think they both are a .35 and I am considering upgrading to a .5, what are your recommendations on this ? (currently checking into the 4053)

    I'm using a garden hose compared to yours Joh ! And while I see no need to change that I'll grant that it may be over kill. I did this with the Paasche H and #5 tip. Certainly try the .5 as thats the minimum Createx reluctantly suggests for use with airbrushing 4050. They really like .7 or more. I'm right in line with a 1.0 for that product really. The 4053 will be more suited to the .5 if properly thinned but a .7 wouldn't even hurt then. I'm looking to go to a Paasche VL to get to the .7 and 1.0 tips in double action for the T Shirts. Like you my double action brush is .3 and frankly it struggles, especially given you don't want the paint too thinned out on fabrics, it just saturates the cloth and no color. But one day I stenciled a cloth place mat and used the H, white paint, no thinner and that #5 tip, it sprayed like magic. But you can't free hand letters very well with single action,fine on model cars.

    Here is a video on 4053. It's part 1 of 2, it should link you to part 2:


  10. 7 hours ago, CabDriver said:

    I have not, personally - but I’ve been wanting to!  Didn’t realize they stocked that - thanks for the tip!

    I’ve never mastered a technique for polishing Createx acrylic clear that gave me results as good as I can get with lacquers or enamels, but I’d love to figure one out…but I’ve seen some good results right out of the bottle with that high-gloss stuff so I’m interested to try it

    Jim, with the 4050 I was able to spray that down real smooth with the blend I mentioned. It could be left alone but it gets that slight acrylic haze thing going on once dry. I found it just took one application of Formula 1 Scratch out and a good rubbing dry to get a very realistic finish from it. The 4053 is supposed to be better yet but it may start into that wet look I'm not looking for. I want the natural classic car era finishes. I can get that with enamel but this is danged close maybe to call close enough, no stink and not week long waiting for cure times.

    I thought it was note worthy info from Createx that they say Pearl, metallics and Candy 2o stay better suspended in 4050 than in 4053 though. They still suggest 4030 or 4050 for mixing into colors or candy into it, for the poly cross over too, 4050 to suspend as mentioned, 4053 is top coat only. 4050 and 53 both give UV protection though. 4030 can still be used as intercoat between two tone colors or more. All in all I'm getting to like this system for more than Christian T Shirt painting as I was using it for. It's quite a system of professional grade paints and odor free essentially.

    • Like 1
  11. I did a test shoot today on a medicine bottle in prep for a yellow 1960 Ford T Bird. But I shot the test with white Stynylrez and then Opaque primary Yellow Createx mixed with 10-15% 4030 and about 15% 4011. I shot the test with the Paasche H and #5 tip and it went on beautiful. I cooked it in the dehydrator for 15 minutes or so and over shot that with 4050  UV clear thinned about 40% with 4011 ( this stuff reminds of Liquitex varnish only the Liquitex is thinner viscosity out of the bottle). Three coats which leveled out real nice. I air dried that for about an hour then cooked it in the dehydrator.  It's very smooth but I noticed after fully drying it needs a bit of polishing. I started out with some scratch out polishing compound but noticed dry buffing went well too.. Looks fine.

    I noticed now at Hobby Lobby they have the 4053 High Gloss clear I've seen instructional videos on. This stuff is supposed to stay clearer when dry thus higher gloss.  Anyone used that ? Just curious. The 4050 looks fine and polished I believe it's going to give me the natural shine I'm looking for on the old cars. Anyway that was today's airbrush adventure. Yes I know it doesn't match the thread title but someone mentioned 4050 within this thread. I can say I've tried that.

    Tomorrow I'm testing shooting pearls on plastic, same sequence of materials and events.

  12. On 11/10/2022 at 11:47 PM, Joe Nunes said:

    I have decided to go with the 24" width spray booth after much thought. Thank you all for your visits and comments as they are appreciated.


    You'll be surprised how well you will get along with that. I built mine 25" wide and it's been fine for me including 1/16 scale cars. I don't do big ships but if I did, when I think big even 36 wide probably wouldn't do it anyway.

    • Thanks 1
  13. 1 hour ago, TransAmMike said:

    I'm sure ya all know the K.I.S.S. formula right??😂😂

    You must be talking about 3 step enamel rattle cans then. 1 Shake,2 spray,3 put the can back on the shelf !! Because we departed from KISS first when coming from rattle cans to airbrushing and all it's components/ mechanical features, then compounded it with craft paint and further with Createx and it's vast array of materials/systems and colors.

  14. 2 hours ago, LL3 Model Worx said:

    Adding a little glycerin to your mix is very nice for craft paints... helps them flow and level.

    Also, using wood alcohol vs isopropyl will help with the gelling problem. I'm not sure if it will in every instance but definitely in most.

    I used these methods on this model and many others20210729_223108.thumb.jpg.8572cb423eb9f948dba5b6fa0270aad2.jpg


    20220628_121937.thumb.jpg.e9bb6aea70e39c3231b7c5a34d863f6a.jpg 20221101_153539.thumb.jpg.bb29eed945a1669c74529d5262e87749.jpg


    Thanks and nice work.. Ya I have craft paints spraying almost like solvents in many cases. In my quest to formulate the thinner, I concluded one in particular is awesome for Craft Smart, Annitas, Martha Stewart, Folk Art and Apple Barrel and one or two others. Through the years ( about 7-8 actually with craft paints) have vasolated between flow aids from Liquitex, glycerin and dish soap. I've concluded in that blend that a trace element of dish soap wins in those paints ( and I really mean a trace element of it, less than a drop in 3oz of thinner blend). But it is not a fits all thinner, there are a couple of brands of craft paints that need different formulation. I've got a couple of other formulas that work well, perfectly acceptable and even work in the brands above but not quite that shoot down much like solvent based paints and they alter the sheen slightly in flat paints to a semi matte. You need to be more careful getting on a faint first coat or so, then its fine. And it takes a little air flash drying between coats then levels out awesome.

    Anyway happy shooting ! I'll try some denatured alcohol in my secondary formula, its half the fun of this hobby to experiment IMO.

  15. 54 minutes ago, TransAmMike said:

    Oops, I was thinking you said the Folk Art....my old man reading comprehension is diminishing I guess😂

    I have used the Createx 4011 in the craft paint.  I would have to look back at our diacussion about your thinner blend Dave.  Would you please refresh my memory of the ingredients and quantity of each if you have time.

    Thanks, Mike

    If the 4011 worked in the craft paint, might as well just use that Mike . I've never tried that so have no gauge for comparison.

  16. 9 hours ago, Dragonhawk1066 said:

    I really like using Createx paints, as well as craft paints. I use their 4011 Reducer, 4030 Balancing Clear, and 5607 Retarder when mixing pretty much at their recommended ratios and they spray very well. I tested Transparent Deep Red, but it seemed too dark to get a good idea on transparency. The UVLS 4050 Gloss Clear is a great clear coat as well and I have started using it as my go-to clear. The '29 Ford Roadster is Pearl Plum over a Metallic Charcoal Gray base, the '55 Chevy Cameo is Pearl Turquoise over a medium gray primer, and the '67 Shelby Mustang is Pearl Tangerine over a Metallic Gray base, all with UVLS 4050 Clear for an idea of how they look.




    These are all very natural looking paint jobs Craig, and I like that. It offers a realistic appeal to me at least.

  17. 13 hours ago, TransAmMike said:

    Should be going to HL Tuesday so I'll check out the rose golds.   Interesting that your thinner "blend" causes gelling with teh Fold Art.  Wonder what the reason would be for that.

    No not Folk Art, it works fine in that. I use a different blend for Deco Art Mike. And not all Deco Art gels with my basic thinner but enough to where I altered my blend for that brand craft paint. It's the IPA that gels it, I took out the IPA and put in acrylic airbrush medium in it's place or US Art Supply acrylic thinner in it's place, either works.

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