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geetee66

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About geetee66

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    MCM Ohana
  • Birthday 10/05/1966

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  • Scale I Build
    1:25

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  • Location
    West London. UK
  • Full Name
    Guy Turner

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  1. Also started on the tricky metal transfers for the trim. I'm having to secure the bent ends with tiny spots of CA. Glad I persevered though, as the trim is a great feature of these cars.
  2. I was looking for some spotlights to fit to the bumper area and remembered the Revell 32 Ford has two choices of headlights. So I pinched the smaller ones, tinted the lenses and popped them on some wire posts. Job done!
  3. Thanks Espo. Yeah, I had to go back and check everything, but there seems to be a flaw in this kit. My previous build of this kit had front end issues too. Pity I couldn't recall how I fixed that. It was several years ago. I had a look on YouTube. There's a few videos on there featuring this kit. As far as I can see, they all have the same problem, which made me feel better about mine. Anyway, the issue seems to be a combination of problems: radiator sits a few mm too high, which has now been trimmed down and the chassis, ahead of the firewall, dips down. This makes the radiator lean forward, pressing against the shroud which I also trimmed back. But even after these adjustments, it's not perfect. The inner wheel arches hit the firewall and so cannot move back any further. All contact points line up and I know for sure that the body cannot move, as it mounts up platform-style, with locator pins. The main problem, as I see it, is the position of the firewall and the distance between that and the radiator shroud. It's too long. anyway, I have found a compromise that closes the horrendous gap in front of the windshield. Hopefully get it finished any day now. test fitted the swamp cooler now it has some BMF strips and a wire support.
  4. Hmm I test fitted during construction, but now I'm about to do final assembly, I have a big gap at the windscreen end of the hood. The front end won't move closer to the body, as it's prevented by the radiator pressing against the bodywork. The body can't shuffle forward to meet the hood, as it's prevented by the chassis pressing on the inside edge of the body. looks ok in these photos, but I need to think hard about how I'll fix this problem...😢
  5. Thanks man! This kit has spark plugs moulded into the engine, which meant I could fit the wires to the ends, rather than drill holes like I normally do. I manipulated the wires with cocktail sticks to get them in the right spot.
  6. I'm glad you like it, guys. I used nail art water slide decals for the lace. Got 'em on eBay for a quid. Pick the sheet of lace, rather than those pre-cut for nails. It gives you more to play with . here's a link for you: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F152359781872👍
  7. Thanks! I used chalk pastels to create depth on the seat cushions. fitting the wheels and body tonight 👍
  8. I wondered about doing a half n half car. Yours looks excellent! Some lovely details there 👍
  9. And the interior. I mixed up a cream colour for the aged plastic. All reference photos show a yellow tint to these parts.
  10. Saved the paint! It rubbed out well and has a good shine. got the foil done around the windows, too.
  11. Thanks the tape is Tamiya and 3M Scotch '3434' blue. I'm applying the clearcoat at the moment. The sparkle is coming back. But I'm getting a gritty finish on the roof. Dunno why. It's ok, it'll rub out
  12. Got the red candy on today. The sparkle will return after clearcoat
  13. Excellent work David! I'm especially pleased to see this build, as my first car was a 105E and the same colour as yours. I recently saw a battered barn find at Brooklands, awaiting auction...
  14. Cheers Jim i got the lace on. Should be dry enough to clearcoat tomorrow.
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