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Madhatter

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  • Content count

    73
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About Madhatter

  • Rank
    MCM Regular

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Melbourne
  • Full Name
    Simon
  1. Zvezda Star Destroyer

    Thanks guys So, here I am with another update. The roof is finished - or finished enough for now. It's looking pretty good to me. It's hard trying to keep it all in scale but I think I am doing alright. A test fit of the bridge and neck was okay but I had to remove some stuff off the back left sidewall to allow the neck to slide all the way in. The fit is not the best - I'll be honest, I'm not sure if it's all me, or part me and part kit or just the kit itself. Either way, I'll have to think carefully about how the final construction is going to go. Well, that's me done for another couple of weeks I think. I'll be making a start on the lower level sidewalls tonight hopefully, then the main body which will be very time consuming I think. Till then Adios amigos Si
  2. Zvezda Star Destroyer

    Hi again everyone I had been asked on another forum for some lighting help and so I did up a very quick photo tutorial on how I use and install SMD's and fiber optics, so I thought I might as well post it here too for anybody to reference if they have never used them before. The pictures aren't the best as I took them quickly and had rubbish light today but they will convey the message adequately enough. First up are the Fibers. These are "Hobby Spools" which are available from here. They're cheap and there's more than enough there to light several models. You can make out the sizes on the labels. Next are 64 strand fiber cables - these are the smallest you can get AFAIK. You can also get 32 strands as well. Pictured are 60 ft and15 ft lengths. These are also the ones I am using for the SD windows. To use them, cut off the length you want - making sure you have more length than you need to allow for curves etc. You'd need to decide where on the kit you want the attach the light source before you cut. Once at the length you want, very carefully run a sharp blade along the side of the sleeve from one end to the other. Then gently pry the split apart the sleeve and pull the fibers out - carefully. To roughly and you'll split or fracture the fiber rendering it useless. Next up are the items you'll need to install onto your subject. In this example, a piece of scrap plastic card, some plastic tube - in this case a 1 cm section of 4.8mm diameter tube. The drill bit is a #80. These fibers are 0.25mm and the next sized fiber up would use a #78 drill bit. The SMD in the picture is 1mm in size. Heat shrink tube and a lighter. To install, drill out 2 holes close together on the scrap plastic and run the wires through the card. You can secure the wires on the back with a drop of CA or my preference is PVA as it's less likely to make the plastic coating on the wires brittle by providing some flexibility. Then glue the tube section over the top of the SMD. Trim off the excess plastic. Once that's dried, slide the heat shrink tube over the top leaving enough length at one end for crimping. It's where the fiber will go in. Gently heat the tube from below with the lighter until it's shrunk enough to hold everything in place. I usually also seal the ends where the wires exit with PVA and then go one step more and paint the dried seal black to light block it further. Once that's done, heat and crimp the other end of the heat tube and insert the fibers - again, sealing and securing them with PVA. Again, once dried, paint them black. Try to avoid painting the fibers themselves as I have had instances where the paint makes the fibers brittle and prone to snapping. I can't tell you enough how annoying it is to have to remove a broken fiber and replace it. PVA doesn't react to the paint.. And 'hey presto', you have lighting on a small scale. Notice that one of those fibers has split in the middle. This means that the end you want lit isn't as bright as the others. Some other things to consider are: you can naturally use a smaller tube. The length of the tube is also wholly variable according to your size limitations. You also don't need to shrink wrap the tube either. You can paint the tube black and use model glue to secure it against the subject as well. I prefer to shrink wrap it as it provides better protection for the SMD/LED If you use an LED - 3mm or more, a good tip to avoid harsh light is to sand the LED itself until it's frosted. This will diffuse the light so much better and provide a nice glow. I'll be doing this on the SD. It should dull the light down enough to make the effect more realistic and so that the SD is not powered by the sun. Well, that just about sums it all up. If you have any questions or you want something clarified, by all means drop me a line. Happy lighting folks!
  3. Zvezda Star Destroyer

    Hi again Thought I'd share some pics of the successful lighting test of the hangar bay. I'm very happy with how it's come out. The light's aren't too strong which is good. Not far from finishing the top section. The windows have all been drilled out and is now ready for the fun task of installing the fiber. Joy Thanks for looking
  4. Zvezda Star Destroyer

    Thanks for the encouraging posts guys - I appreciate them I realised I have forgotten to post pics of the finished hangar bay. Well, I say finished but I still have to install the lighting yet, but that won't take too long. I already have a plan for it all and it's ready to go And with paint on and installed: I didn't go crazy here as it's underneath and I doubt there will be a mirror on the base as that's been done a lot. Speaking of bases, I am still not 100% sure on how I'm going to display it. I thought about having it hovering over a cityscape but I kinda want to save that for my SSD display. If you have any ideas, I'm all open to them Thanks again for the interest guys Si
  5. Zvezda Star Destroyer

    It's been a while since I last updated this but now I am back and have something to show for the time away. I spent a few months building other things like cars and now that my enthusiasm for this kit has returned. Here's where I am currently working - the top layer of the superstructure - or as others have named it, "The Wedding Cake". I am 3/4 done and will take more pics then I still have to drill out that center bit on the nose of the lower layer. I'll run some piping into it to make it more interesting. That's all I have but thanks for looking Si
  6. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    unfortunately no - it bled out over the front and it's ruined the bonnet finish. Because there are 3 colours involved with the overall scheme, I'd have to repaint the entire bonnet. There were also another couple of areas I wasn't happy with, so a complete strip back isn't such a bad thing in this case as I can now fix up those niggling issues
  7. Mercedes AMG GT - Revell 1/24

    I really really love that colour. It suits it perfectly I wish we could get it here in Australia
  8. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    Unbelievable! I had just posted these pics and went to touch up the black on the front and wouldn't you know it - the bloody paint bled underneath the tape and has ruined the bonnet. So, I will have to strip it right back to bare plastic and start again. Great I guess it won't be finished this weekend as planned then Maybe I might go for a different colour. What do you think of matte black with a metallic red asymmetric line running over the bonnet roof and tail?
  9. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    So, it's been repainted and is almost ready now for the final assembly which will be done this weekend hopefully It's a little darker now but I love how the green comes through underneath in varying light. Really happy with this effect Next post will hopefully be the final shots Thanks for looking Si
  10. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    Disaster struck last night when I sprayed on some Tamiya clear from a rattle can. It ruined the paint work by melting the top layer in some places and pitting it in other areas. So it was out with a sander and some primer. A hair dryer sped along the gloss black under coat followed by the primary under lying colour I guess it was my fault for spraying a lacquer over the thin acrylic top coat. Next time I'll use the SMS or the Alclad clear. As I said, I got the base colour back on after a marathon painting session. It's looking better so far than the first time. Anyway, I'll leave it to dry now before the top colour coat goes on. I might even add a touch of green to the mix as well
  11. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    As it turned out, I got 30 minutes to myself, so I took a few pictures outside before it rains again. Interior (with cup holders) Engine bay with screen off and on: What the wheels will look like (still have the nuts to paint) And the body before clear coat - although I literally just had an incident involving glue and the back end. Repaint coming up That's all I have but thanks for indulging me with my build
  12. Lamborghini Huracan Performante

    that colour really suits it. Very well done!
  13. Fujimi Lamborghini Gallardo

    that's a really nice looking Gallardo. Love the window tint
  14. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    thanks guys. I ran a small wash over the seats and it seems to have fixed it somewhat, but they are still not up to the standard I was hoping for. I'l find some time this weekend to take some photos of where it's at now. The inside is almost finished and ready for the body - which I am still painting. It's looking quite nice I have to say. I'm very happy with how it's come out Thanks again for your interest guys
  15. Tamiya 2017 NSX with LB Worx kit

    thanks Aydin It was a bit steep for me @ $141au but I feel it was worth it. Only time will tell if that's true or not.