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Madhatter

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    Melbourne
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    Simon

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  1. sorry I'm a bit late here David - have been away. Mate, that looks so cool! Makes me want to get one. So, have you hit a target with it?
  2. just catching up with this epic project of yours Dann. I like how you've retained some of those classic 80's angles. I'm with you on the new version not exactly looking that amazing. Can't wait to see more of this
  3. This'll be cool to watch! Great to see your posting again Dann - I have missed your work.
  4. that is super cool David and very unique. I love it! I like the stain as well - good choice
  5. I 'm still waiting on my pre-order delivery. Gonna be a long wait with the current postage issues In the mean time, if you want more info about this kit and the Round 2 version, have a look here: https://www.therpf.com/forums/threads/revell-release-schedule.337461/page-4 there is a heap of good pics and info etc in there. I'm super excited about the prospect of doing one in another colour other than bare metal. Naturally, I'll have to build 2 so I can have an original version as well as a WHIF
  6. thanks guys SMS paints are very good but I've found you need at a .5 nozzle to spray with otherwise it can be a tad intermittent.
  7. thanks very much guys! I don't like lots of decals either, but in this case, I had to add a few. I am pretty boring that way As for the green exhaust tips, yeah....they're meant to be burnt blue but for some reason, they came out more green than blue. I used Tamiya's weathering set for them too. I think it looks different to the norm, so I'm going to leave them as is. I did have a lot of issues getting the windscreen to sit inside properly and the A pillars do not hug the glass properly - despite the amount of time I spent trying to get them to align
  8. thanks very much guys! Its been my best car paint job in a long time
  9. Thanks guys Yeah, I really like that shade of blue. I also have another shade called Tropical Blue which is lighter shade and I wasn't sure which one to choose as I liked them both. I'm going to save it for another car down the track. SMS have some really cool paint colours. They spray nicely for the most part but you definitely need a .5 needle as I was finding .3 kept blocking up
  10. thank you for the kind feedback guys. Its quite a bit shinier in the plastic despite taking those pictures outside. It was my first go at polishing using a Dremel and it came out nicely IMHO. I struggle with cars and should probably stick to sci-fi
  11. hey everyone Thought I would post some pics of my just finished side project. I'm really happy with how it came out. As you'll see, I have elected not to cover it in decals - just a few to add interest Painted in SMS Paints Electric Blue as well as Tamiya and Alclad. I have a Version 2 on pre-order to go with at a later date Anyways, that's all the pics I took. I thought I had taken some of the interior but I was wrong. Too late to do anything about it but it's all good As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look Si
  12. thanks Pete! I picked it up by the sleeve last night and it held perfectly. No creaking or stress noises present, so that's a good sign
  13. Oh ok, I get you. I used 8 because I thought it was the simplest way I could run a negative and positive wire to each part on their own switch. It was the only way I could see to make what I had in mind happen with what stuff I had available to me. I could maybe have gotten away with making it 5 but its all done now. I am not overly savvy with electronics and so on - I am a caveman in this respect I also see your point about the connector fulcrum but I am short of space. About 1 cm away from where the edge is, is where the center cross-brace support sits. I'm hoping it's close enough to the center to hold it. Once everything is dried, I'm going to do a test run with the top off to make sure. I would put a brace over the top but I have no room for it. Despite it's massive size, it doesn't have a lot of room on the inside. Another thing I have found a challenge is trying to find a shop that stocks bracing plates with pre-drilled holes in them. I live in Australia, so if any Aussie's here know where I could find such plates, please let me know as I have tried a lot of places and I've had no luck at all. To say I'm not a bit nervous about how this is going to work is an understatement to say the least, but I am also pretty confident it'll hold. (famous last words!) If all else fails, I'll resort to the standard pole in the belly but I really want to stay away from that if I can.
  14. Thanks Peter. It should hold pretty well. I've run CA all over the joints and I don't anticipate it will need to hold more than a kilo or so I needed 4 sockets so I can turn on or off each individual component (ie, engines, flood lights, hangar bays and main superstructure lights). Each component is powered individually to allow me to choose whatever lighting configuration I want. If I had the where-with-all to be able to program a board of sorts to do that I would but I still needed to be able to take the ship off the mount to transport it regardless.
  15. Thanks David! Mate, I am super happy to have finally sorted that out as it was a large hurdle for me. The stand is even painted and clear coated !I've got the base back on the bench and I sanded down all the remaining tiles to go on the plate. I want to get this thing finished already. I know people are getting fatigued with this build - but I did say right at the start I am not a fast builder. Evolution works faster than me at times. So thanks to those of you who are still checking in and watching etc.
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