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dodgefever

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Everything posted by dodgefever

  1. Cool. This is what I'm building - a '57 150 gasser. It'll have a set-back injected small block, and new front rails with a beam axle.
  2. I've got the body assembled and rough cut the top, ready for fitting. This resin is quite brittle, so rather than thin it down under the windows, I'm going to open up the body and sink the top in. That'll give me more surface area for reinforcing it too.
  3. I've got a '57 chevy gasser just started, if it's OK to join in?
  4. Point taken, some things will react violently and/or produce toxic products when mixed with bleach, so yeah, best to avoid mixing it. I wouldn't suggest experimenting with anything else. The OP could always do it in stages: soak in IPA or similar to remove the clear coat, rinse thoroughly, then use the bleach.
  5. I've had that problem with regular chrome too. I mix some isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol with the bleach, about 1 part alcohol to 4 parts bleach. The alcohol dissolves the coating, then the bleach can react with the aluminium. It should strip the chrome in a minute or so.
  6. It'll get worse before it gets better. I've separated the dash because the cowl and windshield moulding will be replaced. This is going to be built as a '60s style street machine, maybe with some speed shop signwriting. I was going to put a Cammer in it, but now I'm thinking about an 8 carb Lincoln, putting more towards the early '60s.
  7. I've made a copy of the sedan top. Now to hack it up to fit the Ranchero.
  8. I haven't waded through all five pages, but one thing that I wonder about is why people use certain aftermarket distributors i.e. those which are merely an aluminium tube with a bunch of wires coming out of the middle. Adding plug wires can do a lot for an engine, but those things just look ridiculous.
  9. Sounds like the Hot Rod kit you're thinking of was the Revell '56. The '53 flip-nose is an old MPC tool, IIRC, but equally terrible. I've just got hold of a new Revell '57 Ford to help with my Ranchero. The plan is to take a mould off the top half of the body and cast a resin piece to restore the top.
  10. The doors need to be lengthened by 6.5mm to 47.5mm at the longest point. The window height on the old unchopped Ranchero is 12mm, whereas the new tool sedan is closer to 13mm. The sedan has thinner window frames, and the doors are fractionally taller overall. This is a side panel from the unchopped version, compared with the new sedan.
  11. This is what I've got to start with. I forgot I'd cut the driver's door out and cut a hole in the hood. The tailgate is missing as well, though I think I've seen that in one of my parts boxes. This will be a challenge.
  12. Roll bars are sometimes called rollover bars in circuit racing circles, but I've never heard them referred to as anti-rollover bars. They've always been roll bars to me anyway. Sway bars however, are called anti-roll bars in the UK. Training wheels are known as "stabilisers" in the UK.
  13. US - hood, UK - bonnet US - top, UK - hood US - trunk, UK - boot Confused yet?
  14. Oh yes. Another bugbear of mine is ellipses in place of proper punctuation... where did that come from... I mean... why use a full stop (period) when you can use all these dots... or worse,,, how about when people use commas as universal punctuation,,, man, that really winds me up,,, thanx
  15. Can I join in with one of those too? Mine is worse still because it's also a glue bomb that I built in my teens. I tried to un-chop it, but I bit off more than I could chew at the time.
  16. I keep seeing people talking about "styrene" in reference to model kits. Styrene is a volatile liquid; I'd be surprised if anyone really has large quantities of styrene in their house. The word you are looking for is polystyrene. Before anyone says "it's just an abbreviation" - no, that would be 'styrene.
  17. Only two this year, but I have a couple more almost done.
  18. The ZZ top coupe has a Pontiac engine, bastardised to pass for an SBC (incorrect valve covers). It's still a Pontiac block & heads with an early Ford trans, so with some Pontiac valve covers and a more old school intake, you're in business. Given the ZZ top coupe is a modified reissue of the old Monogram '34 coupe, I'd expect the engine to drop into the '32 without too much trouble.
  19. The upper part of the front fender does appear a bit too tall, but it may be the oversized lip on the opening that's making it look bulky. I've done a sloppy job on trimming them (lowering it in the process), but see what you think.
  20. According to the MSDS, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is a mixture of butyl acetate and acetone. Never tried it myself, I buy MEK and methylene chloride in litre bottles.
  21. I think you have it the wrong way around. Most seem to be built to fit the style without much thought for safety or basic engineering principles. If that's not putting looks before function, I don't know what is. I hope the rat rod thing dies a death before too long (on here as well as in real life).
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