Sandboarder

They do and when you build one of those kits you’ll understand why most kits don’t offer those features. Revell do a 57 Chevy with opening doors etc. challenging to built.

I just looked at that video and it is a great reference which shows examples of the techniques I mentioned. 👍

Some times knowing what to look for helps a lot. You may not want to paint miniatures or Warhammer or use Citadel paints but their techniques can really help understand how acrylic paint works and flows. From what you said in the first post, I think if you dab your brush on a paper towel to absorb some moisture while leaving the pigment on the brush it’ll help to stop the excess mess. Similar to a technique called glazing but don’t thin the paint as much.

I would suggest watching a few “how to paint mini’s” videos on YouTube. That certainly blow my mind when it come to paint thinning, pigments, application, techniques and tip to thin paint without over loading the brush so you can place the colour pigments exactly where you want them. Also learnt about about brush care too.

Not sure how members lack of understanding of Patreon was going to help OP change his attitude and magically start reading comments and listening to those who bother to talk to him. I do know if you started and Patreon Steve you would make a lot of money as you have many fans on this forum. If Karen’s email gives OP peace of mind about his NOS testers paint, good on him. But let’s not pick on Karen, whoops I mean Jenn for her lack of air brushing experience, she probably saw the job listed on Craigslist, “Rustoleum office job, no product experience required”

Steve you are right, Preston isn’t reading our precious comment yet some of us are making quite large regular responses rather that stopping and letting this thread die. OP has his answer, for the hundredth time Paasche H will fix all of his issues. Time to stop flogging the horse and let this let die the end guys

Before you drop hundreds of dollars and hours investing in a airbrush. Go and try a can of Tamiya lacquer paint. Your obsessed with out dated products, blaming the products and then want to continue using them again. Read the comments because everyone is telling you really good advice and agreeing with each other so you know it’s facts. My bad that isn’t what you want to hear. I’ll go back to my Island before you decide to discriminate me because of my race or geographic location and then wish hard ship upon my children.

Dude I answered this in your other thread (for most lacquers) Maybe do a google search or watch some air brushing videos on YouTube where they use the same paints that you wish to use. Then you’ll learn what ratios etc you will need.

I use a cheap setup. Aldi compressor Hseng air brush and hose U-Star water trap I only use Lacquer’s at 15-20 psi and a ratio of 1 paint to 1.5 thinner. Works great for what I want. Which is small Gunpla stuff. I haven’t tried a car body yet but know it is capable of doing the job.

Warhammer or the Games Workshop range is as much about playing the game and the Lore behind each piece as it is about the model’s painting.

Here is the tapes I have used Only the thick 40mm tape left residue behind that was a problem and I’ve never melted or had paint soak through any of them. I will say that I have used 2 cans of Model Master sprays and do not like them. Great colours but very different to spray compared to Tamiya cans. Model Master stink and goes a long time to cure (go hard) Also the older the can, like out of production stuff. You need to expect them to be old and faulty. Most would decant the paint for air brushing to avoid any low pressure issues associated with old stock.

the can has gotten to hot if the bottom has popped out. I do use hot tap water for 10 minutes to warm my cans but have had the same thing happen. I’ll try a get a pic of some tapes.

I only use Lacquer from either a rattle can or an air brush and have never had issue with Tamiya tape. There IS the quality thin tape 8-18mm (that’s what I’ve used) and then the Tamiya 40mm is a very different type of tape.

You need to build a Bandai model kit then. Buy the a cheap HG Gundam or 30 minute missions kit and you’ll see potential in a well designed snap kit.

If only Bandai made cars. Tamiya have the cleanest car kits I’ve seen. The Hakosuka Skyline has a curb side and a full detail version which come with photo etch pieces.