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    Chris Clinton

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  1. I agree with @Cool Hand because the of the spoons convex shape, paint shrinkage and coverage is pretty different to paint say a car’s interior trim. Also the spoons plastic is harder then model grade styrene. Which is aid with paint solvents and maintaining that smooth shinny surface even when prep’d and primed.
  2. Scratch build or modify the kits chassis. should be able to use the rear diff and borrow/make another drive shaft from diff to tranny. I’m not should about removing the front wheel drive bits
  3. Mr Surfacer is an amazing product and you get what you pay for. I only use their 1500 surfacer. It’s has an amazing self levelling ability. I spray 1500 black over and badly orange pealed Model Master paint job. And the Mr Surfacer dry absolutely smooth. It corrected the orange peal without any sanding.
  4. Just note that the AS series of paint are either semi gloss or flat finishes.
  5. Just remember it’s a fine line between adequate depth and that smothered in honey, too thick and lost details. Best bet IMO is to lay smooth Hobby primer, smooth Hobby colour coats and then a couple of layers of smooth Hobby clear paint. The smoother the paint the less chance you need to sand.
  6. You can thin it with lacquer thinner. I found the Tamiya white putty didn’t dry hard, it stayed a little soft.
  7. Sorry mate I haven’t seen the Ammo stuff for sale so I can’t help you with a link
  8. Amazing job on that stunning paint work. Nailed the Lowrider stance as well 👍
  9. Mr Hobby Super Clear, it’s Lacquer and I’ve used all types and variants with great results. A little peal from the silver base. Super Clear 3 (dark blue label) No polishing.
  10. Sorry @grt222 it looks like no one on here has used the Scale Finishes primer. Although lots have used other primers. I’m sure that’s not very helpful to yourself and your problem.
  11. Did you used the Scales Finishes primer or not? I suspect the primer is quite different to the regular coloured enamels they produce.
  12. I suppose use 1mm styrene but they would be 1/2 inch maybe in 1:1 which would make it 0.5mm in scale. I’m no good with metric to imperial conversions but when working out scale for 1:24 or 1:25 kit it’s safe to say 1 inch scales down to 1mm
  13. I saw some before and after pics of the UV curing and Wow that makes a difference as well.
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