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QuikTimz

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  • Content count

    11
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About QuikTimz

  • Rank
    MCM Member
  • Birthday 09/15/1962

Previous Fields

  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25 - 1/24

Profile Information

  • Location
    Trenton, NJ
  • Full Name
    Bob Langill

Contact Methods

  • Facebook
    Bob Langill
  1. Thanks gasser59...I really hope the build turns out as I envision... Well, here's a little "how I'm doing it" regarding the 1:25 Nova's mini tubs... The very first thing you want to do is RESEARCH!!! I surfed the 'net for a week or so, watching videos, and saving pictures from multiple sources for reference...access to your 1:1 subject would be ideal, but in my case, that really isn't possible, since the owner of my subject vehicle has no clue I'm doing this (and the Nova's mini tubs and other upgrades are just being finished up now)... I measured the width of the Revell 69 COPO kit's rear frame rails where they meet the floor pan's underside (being an injection molded part, the rails are not "square" but widen at that juncture), and cut some strips of masking tape to match...then, using one of those cheap LED miniature flashlights, I shined the light through the chassis pan and laid the masking tape to match the inner edge of the frame rails, providing a "guide" for positioning the new wheel tub "extensions" that I cut from one of the spare chassis pans I had sourced from Ebay... Next, I laid some masking tape inside the floor pan's wheelhouse to provide a cut line, leaving the outer wheelhouse behind...then, just like the first steps when doing a 1:1 mini tub, I removed the inner wheel house to the frame rail, leaving the outer wheel house in place...I learned a couple of things regarding how much to trim out removing the "stock" inner wheelhouse, the left side installation should be much cleaner, requiring less putty (I hope,lol)... Then, I colored the inside of the tub extension with a black Sharpie, laid it over the opening I just cut, and scribed a rough cut line where the two wheel houses should mate up...now it's a matter of file/sand/fit until the new inner wheel tub fits correctly...I guess its probably time to buy some glues for this project, does anybody have recommendations? The rear tires from Fireball Modelworks arrived early last week (MT Drag Radials in 275/60-15 and 315/60-15), so now I can be absolutely sure I'm building the tubs to fit the 315s, which the 1:1 car is being built for (although we are going to start out with a 10.5 tire, which I haven't been able to source)...I can't recommend the Fireball Modelworks tires highly enough: real rubber (convincingly sticky too!), and excellent detailing, right down to the correct "tread" and the major sidewall markings...I wish my phone could take an acceptable picture of them...now I can make sure that the tire fit is correct as I'm fitting the tubs... Before I fill, and finish the mini tub installation (and repair the spot in the right frame rail that I nipped with the chuck of my Dremel), I guess I'd better order the FAB9 rear next, so that I can make the necessary frame rail mods for leaf spring relocation, which will also require removal of the gas tank (on the 1:1, we removed the stock tank, and had a fuel cell/fuel pump installed into the trunk)...
  2. So a quick update on this week's progress...my time at the bench each night has been pretty limited this week...I did a bit more research on mini-tubbing the 1:1 3rd Gen Novas, mainly to get a better feel for the minor frame rail modifications that it entails...I expect to have one side fit by the end of the weekend, and will post details then... Moving along to another issue I need to figure out how to overcome...because the kit has a chassis pan, and an interior pan, cutting the doors open will leave the inner rocker, and the floor too high...perhaps more brainstorming is needed (suggestions are definately welcome), but right now I'm considering simply sanding the top of the chassis pan and the bottom of the interior floor pan until it aligns properly...hopefully it won't "break through" in the floor pan areas that are depressed for your feet...I think I'll go buy a cheap micrometer at Harbor Freight this weekend to see just how far I can sand without sanding through those areas...it'll also help me determine how far it needs to be dropped...this also may require extending the quarter window trim and kick panels to meet the floor...
  3. I guess I'll find out if I do JC, lol...so far, I'm not displeased with my efforts, but, for me, patience while traversing the learning curve will be the key...
  4. Thanks afx, I really hope my haphazard progress can hold your interest...there are so many talented modelers here, I can only hope to approach their quality of build (this is my first build after a 30-year hiatus)...I chose to fab from brass because of the first item I bought when I was considering this project...at that point, I was undecided as to whether I would even take this project on, and was simply surfing, seeing what was available to enhance the build...then, I ran across the item that made my choice for me: 1:25 scale WORKING ball joints!!!...a limited production item made by RB Motion, they fall into his "one off" or "experiments" category of products...since the build required fabbing tubular control arms, my train of thought went "These tiny works of art deserve a better place to live than styrene a-arms...I'll do them in brass"...which in turn lead to, "and if I'm going to do the a-arms in brass, the front clip and tubular core support should be brass too"...and on and on...hence, my choice was made for me, lol
  5. So, as anyone who's been watching this build knows, my chosen fabrication medium is brass for the rollcage, front clip/subframe, A-arms, transmission crossmember, (and now, a rear anti-roll bar setup)...I plan on fabbing, the trunk mounted fuel cell, front & mid mount plates, front accessory mount plate, and subframe mount bushings from aluminum (the same material those items are fabbed from on the 1:1 car)...thankfully, I'll get to replicate the rear firewall/bulkhead and package tray from styrene, since they're getting painted: I was racking my brain trying to figure out how to do the "paneling" they did instead of rolling beads... Anyhow, while I was awaiting delivery of the powertrain and rear tires I ordered, I decided to make my first attempt at scale model rollcage fabrication, since everything else (fabrication-wise) at this point is held up...first thing to do was to decide on the sizes of brass tubing I needed to do it with... The NHRA rules require the 1:1 rollcage structure to be made of 1.75" (44.45mm) diameter tubing, with a couple allowances for ancillary braces to be of 1.625" (41.275mm) tubing...in 1:25 scale, these sizes translate to 0.070" (1.778mm) and 0.0650" (1.651mm) respectively...to ease the fab process, I decided to only use one size of tubing to make the cage, as the difference in diameters would be nearly imperceptible in scale...so, going with the 0.070" measurement (for the 1.750" 1:1 spec), I attempted to cross it over to available K&S fractional sizes...the closest fractional measurement to 0.070" is 5/64" (which they don't offer), and then 1/16" or 3/32" (which they DO offer)...1/16" looked way too small, so I went with the 3/32" tubing...it still looks a bit spindly to me, but I'm going to roll with it... After mangling a section of tubing by attempting to hand bend it, the next thing was to figure out how to bend it without distorting it in the bends...Since there isn't a commercially available bender for this diameter that I could find, I surfed the web...the bends that you see below in my first 1:25 cage try were made utilizing a bending method I found somewhere online (I've surfed so much looking for a way to make satisfactory bends, I can't remember where...it might have been here, lol)...it's rather simple, using a bolt, some washers, a nut, and a small scrap of tubing or a drill bit of the same size you're bending on the side opposite the bend to keep the washers level while bending...I used 3/8" hardware, as it seemed that that inside radius was versatile enough to use in multiple places...it's a little fiddly to work with, but the main drawbacks to this bending method (in my eyes) are a lack of indexing and repeatability...after alittle brainstorming, I found some 3/8" stainless steel washers that measured 3/32" when two were stacked together...I bolted them together between a pair of common fender washers, and drilled two 1/8" holes through the stack...I then riveted the two stainless washers together, and cut a small wedge that included the riveted section so that it's inner end lines up with the edge of the 3/8" bolt...then I took out the rivets, restacked the wedge between the fender washers, riveted them all back together, and put a bolt back through it all, with two nuts (to help keep the side opposite the rivets tight) through the assembly...now I can make an almost 180 degree bend, without being so fiddly...it's not indexable (yet), and requires some concentrated eyeballing to replicate bends, but it will work for now... The Nova has a main hoop/roof hoop type cage in it, but I wanted to try the main hoop/A-pillar style of cage to establish roughly where the "landing points" are going to be, with less pieces to make...that attempt is what you see in the pics below (made with the original version of the "bender")...I'll wait until the second Nova kit arrives (that one is the "Yenko" version) before cutting the only body and inner door panels I have for final location of the front legs...in a small deviation from the 1:1 car, I'm going to hinge the doors like a fiberglass door on a 1:1 race car would be, so the location of the A-pillar legs is critical...like the final version of the rollcage will be, it is intentionally built tall, so that I can drill into the interior floor pan and finalize it's height with a nice tight fit to the interior before final assembly... Exploratory cage attempt, the beginning of my subframe jig, and the original iteration of the "bender" Another view of the exploratory cage attempt The original iteration of the "bender" (disassembled), and the assembled "improved" version (I didn't think to take pics of it's making, sorry)
  6. I've made a little progress: one of the extra chassis pans I tracked down has been sacrificed to the "Gods of Modification"...using the same method used to open doors and trunk lids (repeatedly scribing the cut line with the back of a #11 blade), I removed the rear wheel wells, and the front subframe along with the trans crossmember... The rear wheel wells will be used to mini-tub the chassis pan I'll be using in the final build, and the front subframe will be used to determine the dimensions of the tubular front clip and trans crossmember that I'm going to fab (once I make a jig to build it on)... I'm waiting for parts that are on order to proceed further with both of these portions of the build: I need the rear tires for the mini-tubbing, and the BBC/Glide package that will be used...below are shots of the carved up chassis pan & parts, the 1:1 subject's mini-tub basically done, and the Smith Racecraft tubular front clip...
  7. Thanks for the encouragement on both fronts Dave...hopefully the 1:1 car will be back in our hands in a couple/few weeks, and we can begin the re-assembly and finish the planned upgrades...I might reach out to you for a tip or three on the 1/25 doppelganger, if that's ok with you...on to the build... After initially purchasing the AMT #1142M/12 "Old Pro" 72 Nova kit at a not so local LHS, I was disappointed in it's quality...the first issue I had with it, is that there is no "not-SS" option in the kit (the [deleted] is a plain Jane)...even worse, (since I will be doing a highly detailed build, and opening the doors and trunk lid), I noticed the the Old Pro's molds are apparently so worn that there are no longer any upper door frames at all...so, back to the search for a victim... A little research turned up Revell's #85-4274 '69 Chevy Nova COPO, which has "not-SS" components...actually locating one turned into a weeks long search...once I got it, I was pleased to see my project's basic needs met, and will simply convert it to a 72 with the trim & lamp changes needed... I've started collecting the materials needed for the project...lots of brass tubing in various sizes: I'll be fabbing subframe connectors, a front clip, tubular radiator support, upper and lower control arms, and a roll cage with it...I found extra floor pans and frames on Ebay to facilitate making the mini tubs and trunk area with...they'll also let me cut a front subframe section out, so I can make a jig of sorts to fab the front clip with...
  8. As some of you may have seen in my introductory post, my planned project involves recreating the 1:1 car that I "crew chief" on...it is a 72 Nova, that, (up until the end of last season), was a naturally-aspirated 421 SBC/TH350 powered car running 9.60s in the 1/4 mile on a 275 tire... When she returns from the fab shop, (with mini tubs & rear firewall, a rear wing, 'chute & mount, and SFI Spec 25.5C updates to the rollcage among other things), we'll put the 565 BBC/'Glide in, finish this season's upgrades, and see if she'll go 8.50s on a 10.5" tire (with license plates) ... I'll post my build updates here in this thread...
  9. Greetings...

    Mark, Richard, Jim, and Larry, thanks so much for the warm welcome!...I'm going to try and chronicle my build (and the related trials & tribulations) in the "Drag Racing Models" section...
  10. Greetings...

    Evenin' everybody...been lurking here for better than a month or so, reading about how this hobby has changed since I last built a model (alittle over 30 yrs!)...what a difference in the detailing supplies that are available! (I haven't built a model since thread, stretched sprue, fishing line, and telephone cable wires/strands were the extent of detailing supplies)...I can't wait to finish collecting the needed supplies to begin my planned project, a 1/25 rendering of the 72 Nova street car that I "crew chief" on, affectionately known as "the Turd"...capable of high 9.60s - low 9.70s last season, it's currently at the chassis shop, getting the necessary safety upgrades for the mid to low 8-second 1/4 mile passes we're aiming for this season...my buddy that owns it has no idea that I'm doing this...
  11. Bantam Fuel Altered - New pics 1-7

    Tim, as a new member to the forum, I have to put forth my admiration for the skills and techniques revealed in the build of your Bantam. I am "returning to the fold" after a 30+ year building hiatus, and am absolutely flabbergasted by the jewel-like finery of your scratch-built components. I can only aspire to achieve the skills you've displayed with this build...one day, I may actually find the wherewithall to obtain a lathe and mill machine (AND the skills) to produce builds on this level...thank you for sharing your baby with us!!!