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Plowboy

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    Kentucky
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    Roger Hayes

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MCM Ohana

MCM Ohana (6/6)

  1. I now have the engine fitted. It wasn't too bad. Just a little trimming here and there. I had to change the oil pan to a front sump. I cut away the old one, grabbed one from a Revell '32 Ford SB, flipped it around, cut away the small sump at the rear and filled it. The frame only needed a small notch in the left spring pocket. Then it was just modifying the engine mounts. The only concern left is having room for a brake booster. I was concerned that the hood wouldn't fit with the blower snout and pulley sticking up like it is. But, it nestled down just like it should. I'm going to have to modify the radiator support again. I'm going to cut away the shroud on top. Then cut away the radiator and replace it with one from an '85 Corvette. It'll also supply the electric fan and shroud. I'm going to have to temp glue everything back together again for a final fitment check after the tub work to make sure everything still fits. If all is good, I should be able to start shooting some primer. I've picked the color for the interior. It'll be Bahama Blue. I want the body to be a pale blue, almost white. But, I've not had any luck finding the color I want in a spray can. I may have to go with something else. I may go in the opposite direction and go with a dark blue. We'll see.
  2. The flat paint on this. And the stance and camber on this. Inspired this... Now, I'm looking at other mundane subjects to give this treatment to. I'm kinda wondering what the Foose Caddy wheels painted black with the whitewalls would look like on the 300C or the Caddy kit (CTS?) that came out several years ago. You've started something Steve!
  3. Yeah, I like this stance a lot better! Just enough to be noticeable. It's looking like I'm going to have to mount the trunk hinge to the tulip panel after all. I see no other way to do it. It's going to be tricky getting it to swing properly and mounted to the tulip panel.
  4. Thanx! It would be OK for an old school street machine or drag car. But, it doesn't work for what I want it to look like. I stuck a set of 19's with a little bigger tires on the rear thinking that would get it where I wanted. It didn't and I didn't like the way they looked. So, I decided to go ahead and modify the wheel wells and lower the rearend. I'm almost done with those modifications. I raised the inner wheel wells 3mms. The rearend will get lowered the same amount with set of lowering blocks. It will make a huge difference in the stance!
  5. I have the front down where I want it. If I raise it, it'll be too high. I lowered it by flipping the spindles.
  6. Most of my time lately has been spent on fitment. Along with a few modifications. I now have everything fitting like it should. Lots of tweaks, filing and sanding. I have a lot of work in the grille and front bumper. I separated them first. The grille got the headlights drilled. The outside headlight rings got sanded and thinned down to match the fenders. I also made a notch in it for the hood latch. And finally, I made a splash guard. It will get body color. It'll barely be visible. But, it'll make a big difference in the appearance. Plus, I'll have a nice solid mounting point. I also had to modify this area on the fenders. That's not how it is on the full scale car. So, I filed and sanded it down to how it should be. I had to then fill the backside of the bumper to close the resulting gap. While I was at it, I made the slot in the license plate recess. Pay no mind to the bumper being crooked. It's just resting on the mount. At the rear, I only had to do a bit of work to get the rear bumper and frame to cooperate with each other. I'm going to drop the rear down some more. It's way too high. Hopefully, I can get it down enough without having to do a mini tub. As you can see in this side view, it has too much rake. I like a little bit of rake. But, this is too much for my taste. I'd like to have it almost level. But, that would require a mini tub. I may just bite the bullet and do it. And I finally got an engine picked out. It's from a Revell Mustang Super Stallion. Hopefully, it'll fit OK. My biggest concern is going to be the fitment with the transmission. The engine itself should be fine.
  7. Thanx for the info Mark! I thought my '69 promo had to be an MPC.
  8. Degreasers don't seem to work well on Tamiya. I had to use 91% alcohol to strip one.
  9. There may be a resin conversion. You'll also need the hood as they're quite different. The only other option is an original from a '68. Personally, I would find an original and backdate it. Then you have to have a tailgate from the MPC kit.
  10. Thanx for the feedback guys! I'm using those from the AMT '60 Starliner custom version.
  11. You're welcome! I use a Dremel with a router bit(ball shape or cylindrical) to grind away the swaged locating pins. You can also use a drill bit that's a larger size than the pins. Best to do that by hand, not with a drill.
  12. The rear of the chassis just slides in above the bumper. Take the two screws out, pull the front down and it should slide forward and out. Word of warning: Do NOT force anything on these particular promos! If it doesn't come loose, keep working on it until it does. I had an '88 Beretta interior explode in my hand trying to push it forward. The styrene they're made from is super brittle! Handle it like it was made out of glass.
  13. Thanx Tony! This was way out of my wheelhouse. But, I'm glad I did it.
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