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About dmthamade

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    pickering ontario canada
  • Full Name
    don hamade

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  1. I'll have a lookaround for the film or something similar. Don't have Hobby Lobby up here, see if Sprue Bros. has in stock. Meantime, i'll grab a pop bottle and practice. Don
  2. Just from the examples I've seen here, I think it is worth it. It's small details that really make any build whether it be aircraft, armor, ships, figures etc etc. Like the wiper blades, should have a fine black line. PITA to do I imagine, but would add so much. Don
  3. Some great ideas, here!! The idea of retainer strips on the inside sounds like a plan, Bill!! Soda bottle plastics sounds good, too!! I like that 1967 Bonneville!! Up here in Canada we got chevy powertrains in our Ponchos, they were chevys under Pontiac bodies. We also got Beaumonts/Chevelles, Acadian/Novas, Astre/Vega, Ventura/Nova...probably a few more I missed. Don
  4. Vacu-forming would be last resort, though it would give thin clears. I can see thin clear plastic working for side or vent/wing glass. Don
  5. Okay, I've been doing aircraft for decades. Canopies on the scale I worked with (1/32) were thin enough that they looked "right" for the most part. Aftermarket ones are also available for some as well. Car kits I find the clears seem to be really thick especially on older kits where they are joined with a web. Are there thinner alternatives available? Is there a way they can be thinned?(long shot)Or are the clears just the way they are? Don
  6. Actually from last week. Got the Audi, Mercedes and BMW finished right before I took two weeks for vacation. The weather has been great so far with more on the way
  7. Do you apply this before or after the clear coat. Just wondering if adding a sealer on top would help to stabilize and lock the tape into place. Don BTW, that BMW looks great!!
  8. Yup!! As far as I can remember, visible on outside on older vehicles. Newer stuff, sealing glue on inside, sometimes. Like I said, check refs. Been thinking about small details like this since I started car models. As In any genre of models, small details make the build. I thought of black fine point Sharpie for the seals, small things to learn... Don
  9. Looks good!! Black decal material too, maybe? Check refs, sealing materials are inside the glass sometimes. On most aircraft, seal is on inside, looks "off" when applied on outside. Don
  10. New tires have a bigger inside diameter than the old tires, wheels fall right through the new tires. Don
  11. This one sat on the SOD for a while. I had some issues on another build with Vallejo Metal Color paints. This build is done primarily to test these paints for color, masking, weathering and durability. Have to say, the paint worked great as long as you stay away from their recommended primer!!! Absolutely nothing accurate as far as markings to pain scheme here, this is only a test. Don
  12. Like steve, i use paper to cover big areas after masking borders, or i just exercise airbrush control. As far as tape goes, i use Tamiya, Aizu, Jammy dog, post-it notes and green painters tape. I have had issues with pulling paint with tape, though it never happens anymore. Last time it was with Vallejo primer, never again. I have to say, i haven't done a lot of gloss schemes, warplanes are a flat finish. Something to keep in mind as i use different sheens of paint. Don
  13. It's a different color, red is usually the default color for these builds. Wanted something different. I hit it with another coat of clear today, has a nice shine that i may be OK with. I used Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr.Color thinner sprayed at 15 psi. Has the look and shine of Tamiya TS-13 clear but i have better control through an airbrush. Working on the front and back chrome parts, found the rear piece that has the park lights is poorly done, the lights barely show through the grille due to flashing. I stripped the chrome and will work on opening the grille slots so the red shows better. Don
  14. Once you try Tamiya primer, you'll never go back. There is an argument that it's expensive, but so is redoing a paint job or even dumping a kit full of resin(more an aircraft thing)aftermarket because the paint went sideways. So, paint once with good materials, or do a redo because of sketchy materials.....your choice. Don
  15. Prep before any paint goes on is important. Surfaces have to be CLEAN of oils, grease. Any gloss surface gets a scuffing with 600 wet/dry. Primer choice depends on color coat choice, lately it's been Tamiya spraybomb primer for everything, though will try Duplicolors in future. It's not the tape you use, it's prep and primer/paint choices that are the issue. What paints are you using? Don
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