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dmthamade

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About dmthamade

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    MCM Friend

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  • Are You Human?
    yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/25

Profile Information

  • Location
    pickering ontario canada
  • Full Name
    don hamade

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  1. We do mechanical work/SRS work for body shops in the area. Seen lots of cars that didn't make it through their first tank of gas or first oil change before getting badly bent. Some of them weren't being driven, just parked and unfortunate casualty. Repair bills total into 20-30 G's but when the car is worth 100-130G's, it gets fixed. Don
  2. A trick I've never tried but have heard and seen give excellent results is to mist a coat of straight lacquer thinner or Mr Color over the build, supposed to help level the last coat. Don
  3. Never used it over Alclad,. I have used a lot of X-22 as a gloss, thinned with Mr Color Leveler Thinner, start at 50/50 at low pressure. Excellent shine, levels off and dries fast. The fumes are like TS-13, so ventilate!! Used this on aircraft before decaling to prevent silvering decals.
  4. Hobby shop visit yesterday yielded the Tamiya Porsche Boxster Special Edition kit. What makes it special are different mags, hard double bump top cover. This is a curbside kit, body moulded in one piece with no opening hood or trunk. Bottom plate does have some moulded in drivetrain detail, looks pretty accurate as well. Hoping for a straightforward build. Not may parts or sprues, 6 in all. Up on the board. Wouldn't normally do a Porsche, but just started on a Chevrolet LS into a Boxster conversion at work. Something different in the display case. Don
  5. It does look like gold color coat, but it is dark copper. In some light it looks pink at times. Nothing bad really stands out as far as the build goes, normal stuff, clean up parts, flash removal, dryfitdryfitdryfit. Pedals look odd, gas pedal looks too big, other two maybe too high? Steering column angle looks like it should be shallower. Interior side panels are missing a panel line for the door gap. Part 41 rear body panel sticks out, should fit flush with rear of body. Used a piece of stretched sprue to temporarily spread the rear to properly fit part 41 and rear bumper. Part 40 stone shield has a odd fit, dryfit and trim before painting. Fitting the headers and tie rods required patience and holding your tongue just right. Can't vouch for accuracy, looks like a Comet to me. Don
  6. Late to the party!! I've done the three different Tamiya spraybombs, and the results are fine, but I've also painted a fuselage the dominant sheen of black, then masked off and airbrushed different clearcoats. I found this works well, is more economical, easier to mask and clear small areas, easier to control the amount of clear than a rattlecan. Clears are available in lacquers in most sheens. I've also mixed sheens to get the desired effect as well. Had to do this aloooong time ago on a A-26 Invader in a black Korean War scheme. Depending on the desired result, I've mixed Tamiya clear colors with the clear coats for jet exhausts. Don
  7. Great idea for a post!! Great seeing the past to present builds. I especially like those Chevelles. Don
  8. I left a lot out. I painted this with Tamiya Dark Copper XF-28. Nothing special done, but i've learned a few things to watch for when buildig cars. There are things i need to watch for, especially regarding finishes. One thing i did wrong, and i know better not to, i glued in the clears with super glue. The windshield and back light frosted up. Pulled the back window to clean and made a mess of the Bare-Metal, had to redo...it's a start. Thanks for the support, guys. Don
  9. Had to do a double take on that green GTO. Had one in last year? Owner died, son inherited car. Picked up car from northern Ontario, driving back to southern Ontario it threw a rod(s) through the side of the block. I pulled engine and was sent out for rebuild. Took about 4-5 months to find parts. Car is really clean.
  10. It's great being in the trade and being able to work on stuff you want to as well as stuff you have to. I see you had a great variety of cars as well, sometimes you do get to live the dream. Don
  11. Well, done with this one. Need to confess, was really a challenge to finish this one. Not used to car models or working in smaller sizes. Enough of the excuses, pics below. Bare-Metal foil was a real challenge to do, did ok with it but there are rough spots. Will have to practice with that. Don
  12. Thanks for the positives, guys. I have to confess, this was a lot more difficult than i thought it would be. 4.5"x 6.5"x 9.5" box, 7 or 8 sprues of parts, how bad could it be...have to tell you, i boxed it up a few times, mostly when dealing with finishes and fit issues. Worse part was doing the Bare-Metal parts, did manage to get it done more or less, took about 5 sessions. Stuff seems to have a mind of its own, and it was thinking bad thinks. Went to add the wiper arms/blades, foiling them first. Broke them. Sad. Well, real drag cars don't have them, so that's my excuse. Won't be adding the decals, i like the clean looks of if without. Done with this, i'll post in the finished forum some pics. Don
  13. You should go have a look at some aircraft model sites. Can be pretty entertaining at times. Have everybody from casual builders to those that are ultra serious about dead nuts accuracy, and everybody in between. For the most part things are ok, but sometimes... Don
  14. I hear you regarding the expensive kit builders. Definite lack of participation..i see the MFH kits and they blow me away in the detail, the price though...I would like to see Revell do 1/16 scale drag cars again, not rehashed kits of the Hawaiian or Revellution but current cars, with molding and detail like their recent 1/32 aircraft. Not going to happen, i know, but i can dream...Tamiya doing current F1 cars in 1/12, even the electric ones. Don
  15. Panel lines are off, and they used a five blade fan on that model....Therefore it's unbuildable. Don
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