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Bill Anderson

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    Spring Texas
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    William Anderson

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  1. Thanks all for the sites and words of wisdom. As in the model railroading world, I learned that product announcements were often wishful thinking as far as availability dates. Looks like the model car world is the same.
  2. What is the best reliable avenue to learn of new kits being available or in the works? Internet, websites, or what?
  3. Being a car nut young guy in the '60s, I recall when the Corvairs came out and over their short run we (me and my car nut buddies) had really mixed feelings about them. The early ones especially, looked like underpowered boxes - especially the rear end. And they tended to collect black oil stains all over the rear. They appeared to be unstable but we didn't know that for certain. Frankly, we didn't think much of them. However, the Corsa version changed all of that. It was really nice. That change in styling - especially the rear - made (to us guys) a huge difference.
  4. Yes, I've come to that conclusion........... It's proven that the chassis Can be inserted into a bumpered body, and as you all indicated, painted with the bumper assemblies attached will make for a much nicer end result. I'm thinking I can get the bumpers attached and smoothed out today, and I already have the spoiler piece in place. So it should be ready to paint tomorrow or Monday. Thanks all once again. Kind of funny... I'm an old hat on the Kalmbach model train forum (since 2004) but still a newbie here. Ha, it's given me a charge to be more patient with the train newbies.....
  5. Hi again, I've come to the point where I'm ditching my quest for the Revell 07708 kit. For me, it just doesn't seem to be worth the wait and I'm not ordering one from overseas. So, my question is....... What is the "best" 427 Cobra kit that has a full windscreen, representative of a "street" Cobra, and made in white plastic? Sorry to be so anal about this........but I guess that trait is pretty common amongst us modelers.
  6. Thanks all for your comments and suggestions. I'm playing with the options now, and to be really honest, I'm just not sure what I'll end up doing.
  7. Well, I'm thinking I agree with the instructions......the radiator is affixed to the body shell first. I'd love to put the bumpers on first and "blend in" , but I'm concerned I'll have a serious hassle getting the body onto the chassis. I nice YouTube video shows one with the bumpers applied to the body first and then painted as a whole. But did the modeler have a problem getting it on the chassis? I know its a different world out there (compared to my car model building of the 60s-70s), but I do miss the WRITTEN step by step instructions. I think they are history, now that most (all???) kits are built elsewhere.
  8. Hi, I'm at a crucial build point with the subject model and am facing a couple of confusing points. The chassis and interior is complete, and the body is ready for painting (as soon as we dry out a bit here). - My first question is, is the radiator assembly glued to the chassis or the body - obviously before they are mated? - Are the front and rear bumper assemblys attached before or after the mating of the chassis/body? In reviewing some YouTube videos, and the instructions, I'm getting mixed signals. Thanks all for your input!
  9. Hi, I'm "late to the party" but may I add my wants to the list..... 1962-3 Ford Falcon Futura (I had a red '63 with buckets and factory 4 speed) 2015-22 Ford F150 (other than Raptor or Super Duty)... there are so many of these out there (I had two) and no model kits.
  10. In the last few years I've gotten back to building the cars of my youth (50s-60s). I've found that the instructions no longer have the "step by step" verbiage and the exploded pics can be pretty vague as to what exactly goes where exactly. The kits are from all the major manufacturers (AMT, Revell, Tamiya, etc.), so its not just one company that "could do better" IMO. But then it hit me....all of these kits are made overseas, whereas the kits of my youth were all made in America - which again, IMO, would reflect a language barrier that has to constantly be overcome in preparing instruction sheets. That is certainly understandable, but it sure does give me (and others) a bit more of a challenge.
  11. Ha, the explanation of the rating system makes sense of things (for me). The one site originally said this new (?) version would hit our shores in July. The other day I noticed that "July" was replaced with a question mark. Well, I've in the middle of a '67 Shelby GT350 build, and have a Dodge Charger and the fancy Ford GT waiting for my attention. So I will work on them first and hold off on the Cobra decision for now. The one with the "metal flake" blue plastic sure looks good, but I'm leaning towards a regular white plastic (at this time). I really appreciate all your help, and the pics of your builds are really inspiring! Thank you!
  12. Forgot to ask this question in my original post....... Previous Monogram kits are rated at a level 2. This new one is rated at a level 4. Why would that be?
  13. Oh man, that is one beautiful model !!! My plan for the paint job (as I have the paints) is Testor's "star spangled blue" or "gloss dark red" Exactly which particular kit did that come from? Great work! Thanks for sharing!
  14. Yup, that's the one!!! I see you are in Canada. And they are all over Europe, but still waiting for US deliveries. So what do you think of the kit? Thanks for sharing, Bill
  15. Thank you Can-Con! I honestly expected a flood of comments on this thread, given that the Shelby Cobra was so cool - and mean sounding - when they came out. I recall seeing a 289 and a 427 in the showroom window of a dealership on the NW side of Chicago back in the summer of '66 or '67. To the best of my recall, one had a sticker price of $6,600.
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