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LL3 Model Worx

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About LL3 Model Worx

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    1/24 1/25 1/35

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    Leroy Long 3rd

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  1. To be honest, I think it was "Mustand1989's" Cross kit General lee thread? But that interior in that car is the business!! Looks so good it made me very very happy to see it! I would check out that thread, and perhaps ask him how he got "the look" because like I said, its gorgeous.
  2. On painting the injector hat butterflies red... try thinning out some red paint (preferably enamel) and while holding the part vertical use either a small brush or a frayed toothpick to drip the paint in... let stand vertical while drying. Clean off any excess with q tip dipped in mineral spirits or lacquer thinner... or even turpentine. If that's too risky for you, go with a red sharpie marker! It may not be the best but it will work. Build looks cool, keep at it.
  3. Not to be the enabler but... I would suggest perhaps going to a library and getting some books on the subject, and or looking for youtube videos.... and it also never hurts to go to a local machine shop and ask some questions. Also, sometimes certain vocational schools have classes/programs you can pay to attend on various subjects such as machining. Go to a local high school that has a machining class (mine did) and ask if you could sit in and pick the instructors brain... if you don't have anything requiring you to not be around children, I don't see why they would refuse. The other option is to get the tools and EXPERIMENT.... practice makes perfect and you have to start somewhere. Also, check out watch makers... they do some mind blowing work that is very applicable here. Not trying to be harsh or rude but wasting time here asking the same questions over and over is not helping you achieve your goal.
  4. I just went to the only hobby store I have (which is in a different county) this past thursday and they had the metalizers... I stocked up at $3.99 per jar. If it's in my stash, I'd be happy to oblige. It may take me a day or two to rummage through my crates though... I have them semi organized but it's tough with so many. I've got an absolute TON of pactra in spray cans including the lacquers for Lexan... but very few in jars. I've tried alot of stuff, but both Tamiya and Humbrol are not readily available locally and ordering that stuff is expensive. I tried craft paints and can get them to spray good but never found a decent clear coat for them, future just doesn't do it for me. I use them alot for other stuff though like figures, armor, terrain... This is my first ever tank model done completely with craft acrylics... all brush painted. When I was a kid I used alot of automotive paints as I practically lived in a body shop... but that's way too easy, and can come off very unrealistic in scale at times... candied apples. These days I like duplicolors lacquers and model master enamels without clear and just buffed and polished out. Looks more realistic to my eyes and less like a toy.
  5. Ace-Garageguy has it right. I spent alot of my life prepping and painting 1:1's... everything from county school buses, other fleet vehicles all the way to show cars that have sold for enormous money through Barrett-Jackson, I'm fairly well versed in paint and its application... though experimenting with new methods these days on styrene. I just do not understand the logic of not testing on scrap before blowing down on $20- and up worth of kit just to have it backfire in your face. I've shot ridiculously hot catalyzed automotive urethane over styrene with no primer at all from a HVLP gun with excellent results... but I TESTED on junk FIRST! Here's the result... I did this at around 10yrs old before my long hiatus from car models. I've ruined more bodies with hobby specific spray cans (I'm looking at you testors enamels!!) Than I have with anything else... When I first returned to car models I built this Nova... I used Duplicolor perfect match grey primer wich is pretty hot and it crazed/etched the plastic... but that's not really a problem if you wait, wet sand and recoat and then wet sand again. Result No evidence of etching after finishing correctly... and this is just buffed duplicolor perfect match red with no clear. Always test first... as most paints can be made to work with the right process and corresponding materials and work put in by YOU. I've recently just been using plain old testors enamel either decanted or from the jar in my airbrush, with no clear just buffing and polishing and it turns out fairly decent (at least to me) Results I'm all for experimenting these days... but I always test before I take the plunge. As sometimes you can be left with useless plastic ready for the trash. Model on! -Leroy-
  6. Best part of this is when you actually do need one of those parts, as long as you don't glue it down you wouldn't be lying when you say "I gotta go to the junkyard for parts" lol!
  7. I'm just gonna make a list of all the folks I've had good dealings with (I won't mention those that are still pending) 1930fordpickup (very generous) Gary Davis (super nice guy) High Octane (very patient, when I fumbled) Scott8950 (fantastic guy, and great communication) ExoticsBuilder (came through for me) Chasracer (despite self inflicted confusion, a stand up guy) afx (really smooth deal) BeakDoc (exceptionally laid back) 89AKurt (helped my current build out tremendously! Generally helpful and funny guy) There are more in the works...
  8. Thanks. My dad actually painted the original body's used for the show. The interior is going to take a fair amount of work to make it resemble the actual TV car. The body doesn't need much at all, the only thing I'll really have to do is cut out the pop up headlights and change it to the configuration used on the TV car. I'm hoping it comes out good. I'm honestly not sure, I got the kit from a friend, it's just unlike any of the standard blemishes ive seen. It would make perfect sense though... In any case I've filled and sanded it away with no issues.
  9. The pleasure was all mine Scott, I would reccomend and encourage with confidence anyone trade with you. Class act!
  10. So, I FINALLY got some bench time, and was able to actually start! Here's the kit I'm using. I found a few odd spots on the hood that it I've never encountered before, but a little sanding and filling will take care of it. The dash/ guage cluster is correct for a real Daytona, but incorrect for the TV car, so I'm going to have to do some "adjusting". I've already removed the crash pad from the passenger side (not pictured) and I'm in the process of scratch building a glove box to replace it. The A/C vents on the dash also have to be moved, there are 3 vents in the TV car and 4 on the real car and this kit. The center console has to be modified for C4 style shifter/plate also, along with the door panels and seats. Hoping to finish the dash and seats tomorrow, and hopefully have something of more value to post. But at least I've now left the starting line.
  11. Yup, I'm right there with you. I have a few old builds from when I was a kid, that actually have pretty good paint on them (base/clear) from HVLP back then, so the paint is gorgeous, I however didnt know jack about modeling back then, so I never addressed the mold lines, or sink marks or any of the real basics.
  12. I'd be interested, just let me know.
  13. Thanks JC, I didnt know... just knew it was the right make and model.
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