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Pete75

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  1. Great job, Rodrigo. I really like the chrome detail?
  2. Thanks guys! ? Part 2/2 of the build catch-up. My posts won't all be this long, I promise! On to the chassis. The sheet calls for XF-16 Flat Aluminium across the tail section and for the engine, but this would be indistinguishable from the base colour, so I mixed in XF-56 Metallic Grey (1:1) to get some contrast. Lowlights & highlights were added to the engine before some black wash went on all underside lines & recesses. Started on the small bits. I might add painting shock springs to the “Pet peeves on builds” thread: it’s a lot of time given to something hardly seen! I’ve been looking forward to finally having some drilled brake discs to get my black wash on! The mechanical assembly proved mercifully uneventful, even if the sheet doesn’t – and, in fairness, probably can’t – always show the best order to do things. My reformed, more disciplined, approach to test fitting certainly helps avoid glue mishaps. Although only two pieces, the exhaust system felt like a game of Twister to get in place, and it most definitely required test fitting! I raised an eyebrow when the sheet suggested a 1:1 mix of X-11 Silver and X-26 Clear Orange for the colour, but I mixed some up (using Revell Aqua Silver) and it perfectly matched the reference photo I found online. One last check that everything was right before the skid plates went on: And she’s up & running. Next to the interior. When it came to interior colours, GT3 mk1 customers were presented with a pretty limited menu. Leather came as standard, or the race spec featured fire-retardant upholstery, but there was one common factor… ? The most exciting option/upgrade I could find was to have the odd bit of coloured plastic, so opted for this: I’m not bothering with racing belts as the kit doesn’t include the roll cage to attach them to & they would be a nuisance driving down to the 1:24 shops! As a road-going racer, the GT3’s weight was reduced by the absence of rear seats. Instead, the rear of the cabin is merely carpet, which is supplied with the kit. It’s an interesting feature, and is fitted in four pieces that have to be cut out using templates. The self-adhesive backing sticks it down better than I had imagined, although I should’ve used my sharpest scissors to cut it to get cleaner edges. I was also relieved at how well the tiny GT3 metal transfer stuck. The seats were sprayed TS-29 for a polished leather look, and I found the silver brushwork pretty painless using Revell Aqua 90. For the carpet in the front of the cabin, I tried to break up things slightly using Aqua 108 (matt black) mixed with 109 (matt anthracite). On this project I’m using Citadel Chaos black primer for the first time. It gives a nice matt finish and I found that’s not dissimilar to auto interior trim, which this is exactly what I’m going to use it for from now on! This kit doesn’t have many decals, but those that it does have are small and tricky. The 5 separate dashboard dials were a battle to get sitting correctly, and I failed altogether with the badge on the steering wheel. For the other little details (that you guys will probably only ever see!) I picked out bits with black gloss and varnish. I was going to recount the grisly details of what happened to the body, but I’ll spare us all as I’m keen to consign it to history! The short version is that a foreign body landed in the TS-13 lacquer midway through the first coat and my subsequent attempts to repair it failed. (I think the two lessons I’ll take away are to be more careful in the first place and to make sure the whole body is thoroughly smooth before restarting the clear coat.) I was ultimately left with no option but to completely strip & begin again. After checking for suggestions, I tried using oven cleaner in a zip bag; it may’ve worked, eventually, but I got impatient after 24hrs and got some brake fluid. (The gentle aroma is still with me now I think!) I submerged the body in a plastic pot and - wearing rubber gloves - scrubbed it twice a day with a toothbrush. It could’ve been done quicker if I’d used more abrasion, but I found it took about five days to get everything off. Meanwhile I finished up everything else. I find glasswork tricky & seem to spend a lot of time with cotton buds & thinner tidying up mistakes. This time went better than my previous attempt, but things weren't helped by the absence of window masks - I'm guessing they were accidentally thrown out - which meant more masking tape practise! A gripe I have with clear parts is that, no matter how careful I am removing them from the sprue, something always seems to get damaged: in this instance a front lens must've had a tiny crack in it so when I lined the edges with black marker, some ink bled into the middle of the plastic. (Perhaps I could’ve protected first it with clear vanish?) With the bodyshell bare again, I thought I’d do a quick mock-up to see what my hard-wrought wheels would look like in the wheel arches… No photos. Too upset to document it! Wheel fitting lesson #4 is that there is such a thing as “offset” to be considered. I now know that the standard Porsche wheels have a shallow offset, while Rays G27’s have a deep offset (is that the right way around?) and protrude about 2mm further from the body, making the car look like a dune buggy! I reckon I could halve the problem by grinding back the brake hubs & adjusting the axle pins, but that wouldn’t be enough, and is it all really worth it when the perfectly fitting original wheels are sat here? I concede defeat. With a silver body, my heart remains set on darker wheels. BBS split alloys are seldom painted dark, it seems, and if they are, they tend to have chrome outer rims – which I wouldn’t know how to do. I did find one guy who had his 1:1 set finished in totally gloss black and, as I wasn’t entirely sold on the TS-38 glitterball effect, black it is. They’ll be ok. I’ll chalk it up to experience, alongside the body which, I’m pleased to say, has been successfully re-painted, flatted and clear coated. I’ll give it a few days to cure before sanding it & getting the window rubbers painted. And we’re finally up-to-date! Happy Christmas to you all ?
  3. Cool! Thanks for sharing. You had a much nicer camera!
  4. Hey thanks Kurt! It's just occurred to me I've never been in an Impreza - with all the watching & PlayStation driving it sometimes feels like I have! Will be really interested to see an engine put in one - be sure to do a WIP thread with lots of pics
  5. Thanks guys! Pat - that's a nice perk of your locality! I saw the Prodrive HQ on something I was watching recently that had David Richards being interviewed. The closest I got to the real thing was the 1999 Rally GB at Silverstone: all the cars & drivers were parked in one long queue - fantastic! I only got one snap of the blue car:
  6. Welcome to my first WIP thread, where I’ll be building Tamiya’s (2001) 1:24 Porsche 911 (996.1) GT3. This project is actually at a quite well advanced stage and I’ve been keeping a log on another forum, but I thought I’d condense it slightly and bring it to MCM, where - as a car specific site - I suspect I’ll be basing my build logs from now on. I’m fairly new to modelling and this is only my third (non RC) kit, although my fourth is also underway & will soon have a thread. Any comments, advice and questions are very welcome. I think I can fit the story so far into two bumper posts, so here goes... First up, the bodywork. Like many components in this kit, the shell is shared with Tamiya’s 911 Carrera (1998), although the GT3 is differentiated by some extra body kit: an altered nose section, side skirts, and a rear spoiler: The moulding of the kit seems good to me, but there were a few lines to be sanded out: I like the marker pen technique I picked up from Scalemodler on YouTube, where raised areas are highlighted to make them more visible/less forgettable before being removed with sanding sticks. Besides the lines on the rear corners, there is a row of what look like (but aren’t) parking sensors to be dealt with, plus lines down the front wings and another along the bottom edge of the boot/tailgate/bonnet/hood thing. (A back to front car and two versions of the English language going on here!) Once tidied and glued, everything was given a thorough key with 600 grit paper & it was ready for paint. With no fancy airbrushes or ventilated spray booths available, it’s a case of old school rattle cans in a garden shed! Tamiya grey primer went on the body nicely and looked good after two coats, although inspection under a bright light revealed a couple of flecks of dust that needed light wet sanding with 800 grit. After wiping & drying I gave it a couple of touch up sprays & left it for an hour before the colour coat, where I’m aiming for Porsche’s Aztec Silver: I settled on Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminium, which turns out to be really nice: I was happy the finish, so I decided to quit whilst I was ahead and leave the clear coat for another day. Meanwhile, my focus turned to the wheels. The kit comes with appropriate 18” BBS split alloy wheels, which are fine, but I could feel myself getting caught in the tractor beam of the custom shop… I hunted for a set of aftermarket BBS alloys (possibly E88’s?) that I’d previously seen on a 930 flat nose project, but with no luck. The nearest thing I could find were the above, which brought me more joy than four chunks of grey resin probably should! However, my lack of experience in such matters would soon be exposed… Wheel fitting lesson #1 was that rim diameter is not the only measurement to be considered, especially on a car that turns out to have a big width difference between front and rear wheels! I already had a razor saw and some files, so, after getting some reassurance on another forum, I masked off the correct lines and took the plunge: The tools did the job really easily, and in no-time I had a set of modified alloys. Next, I was curious to learn about making them compatible with the Tamiya hubs. Although they don't have the required "male" Tamiya parts installed (like the stock wheels - left of photo), I found them supplied separately. I wasn't sure how to safely remove the raised tab on the back of the new wheels, but I discovered it was easiest to pop them out from the front using a sharp point, then tidy up with a rounded file. Before the wheels could be painted, I found a fair bit of moulding excess on both the rims and spokes that needed removing. This, it transpires, is a time-consuming process at the best of times; in my case, however, it turned into a minor drama... Lesson #3 was that resin is extremely brittle! I tried and nearly succeeded to stick the broken part back couple of times, but found I needed stronger adhesive, and by the time super glue was involved I ended up melting the fragment and lost half of it! Having since seen the wonders of scratch fabrication performed by MCM members, I’m ashamed to say I nearly gave up here, but I persevered using household materials and some improvisation. First, I stuck back what remained of spoke and then created a bridge across the remaining gap using fast setting epoxy resin. Next, I filled any remaining low points with Vallejo plastic putty and let it dry overnight. Finally, I shaped/tidied things with a scalpel & sandpaper, before quickly covering with paint & chalking it up as a save! After white primer, I went with three coats of TS-38 Gunmetal. I had originally intended to do the body in this colour (with silver wheels) but I had a last-minute change of heart after becoming concerned that it had too much flake in it. Indeed, the wheels are more “disco” than I would’ve chosen in a perfect world (rattle can choices are somewhat limited) but, after a quick mock up, I was happy enough with them. The wheel centre caps are also supplied separately. After doing some research on the different styles of finish for these, I elected to go for something conservative. (These wheels are popular with Japanese boy racers, it seems, but this isn’t really the effect I had in mind!) I primed them in black, then brush highlighted with some TS-38 on the lock rings, before dropping black paint and then gloss varnish into the middle recesses. The caps were then cut from their tree, leaving small tabs on the back of each to locate them in the hub holes; holding them in position with a finger, I dropped in some Tamiya cement from the back to secure them. The rims were then finished off with TS-79 Semi-Gloss Clear, as I didn’t want full gloss to make them any “louder” than they are; the effect is subtle, but they do have more depth/look more “finished” in the flesh. The final step was to secure the adaptors with super glue. Phew… This is taking a while to write. Well done if you’ve made it this far! Tune in soon for the next (and last) catch-up episode when things get a bit… ??
  7. Really enjoyed reading this thread in one go. I'm pretty new to modelling, so this level of customisation/scratch fabrication is awesomely impressive. The 944TR needs to wheel it's way to the front of the bench for completion!
  8. Cheers! I thought long & hard about the antennae. In the end I just did what the instruction sheet suggests and heated some of the plastic sprue with a candle (briefly), then stretched it. After that I just painted them & put a blob of paint on the tops.
  9. Thanks for your kind comments, espo - much appreciated!
  10. Many thanks for posting this, afx! Great to see the real thing ?
  11. My first project, completed Jan 2019. The 22B remains my favourite Impreza and World Rally Car, period. I saw McRae winning Rally GB in this later that year, although I only actually saw blinding fog lamps and glowing brake discs; the distinctive growl & crackling turbo sounded cool, though! Some painful lessons were learned during the build, which was not an efficient process. Getting the shell painted to a satisfactory level using rattle cans in a dusty and cold garden shed is not without difficulties, I discovered. Also, in retrospect, the kit is probably a bit decal-heavy to qualify as a good choice for a novice. It’s painted pretty much exactly as per the instruction sheet in Tamiya colours: the wheels are TS-21 and the body is TS-50 with a TS-13 clear coat. The after-market harnesses are Eduard #24201. The antenna are stetched sprue & paint. Thanks for looking. ?
  12. Nice to hear from you David. I suspect there are a rather large number of us revisiting childhood passions! I'll certainly be taking a look at your collection & it's great to hear how helpful the MCM community is. Hi Tom. Yeah, I've never actually built a kit but Airfix is a byword for modelling in the UK. Will be checking out your pages. Ah, not far away. Used to know someone from Downend.
  13. Interesting to see the differences between Fujimi & Aoshima Aventadors. Look forward to watching ?
  14. Hi Geoff. Beatties was like nirvana - didn't know they had a team! I'm near Bristol. Pete
  15. Thanks guys - what a friendly bunch! I look forward to being a member here. Pete
  16. Hi everybody, I'm Pete. I used to mess around with Tamiya RC cars in the late 80s & then returned to it a few years ago. After doing a couple of kits, I found 1:10 scale was taking up too much space, yet I also found I was enjoying the building element more than ever - the solution was obvious! Currently finishing my third small scale build (1:24 & 1:20 is my thing) and about to start another, with a couple more lined up after that. I plan to post some of my work and to enjoy browsing everyone else's whilst picking up some useful tips/info. Cheers.
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