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About Metalbeast

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    Great Lakes
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    Kevin Newton

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  1. All I did was take off the chrome and use a file and sanding to remove the rub strip from the front bumper. I think I used Testors silver enamel with a dull clear coat.
  2. Wow... seamless combination! Everything looks exactly like it belongs. I really like the weathered tone you got on the exhaust system. I may have to take a crack at this combination.
  3. I knew a guy with a Sky and he put all the Opel trim on it. He also had a GTO with all the Holden badges on it. That got sold traded in on a Chevrolet SS which, you guessed it, ended up with Holden badges because I guess an SS alone wasn't obscure enough. I told him he could have at least tried some Vauxhall markings on the SS, lol.
  4. May be a simple model but trucks were simple things back then, too. I love it! The photos look like ones of a real truck!
  5. I love everything about it except the name. Sheila is my ex-wife's name, lol! I passed on this at the hobby shop thinking it was a rebox of the old '56 with opening doors but I might need to check it out.
  6. Thank you! Yeah. I always thought it was odd she ordered it with stuff like the running lights, but not the hitch. The hitch was an aftermarket Reese that didn't look like it had been on the truck very long when I got it. Thanks! I won't drive anything but a lower trimmed truck. I see trucks as work vehicls first and foremost. Maybe I'm old school. I just don't get why you'd want to spend 60 grand on a truck with all the trimmings of a Lincoln when it's just going to get used up and dirty. I still might try that crazy intake, lol! I'd really like to do a model of my '93 with an engine some day. There was no 4.9 six in a model when I built this, but a couple of the Moebius kits have a 240/300 that could be updated to what I'd need. Theoretically at least, lol!
  7. I've worked around rubber and plastic, in some cases rubber/plastic/or silicone with an insert. For example, a rubber donut isolator with a steel tube molded into it. I'm more familiar with rubber as I worked in that side of the industry longer. I've only ever seen the repairs to the molds after the fact. Never saw it while it was being done. Unless you were the diesetter you pretty much weren't allowed into the machine shop. Unless he was OK with you being in there or he was training you. Even the tools for the parts without inserts would wear, but if the operator wasn't paying attention and closed a mold on an insert that wasn't centered. You wouldn't think a solid steel die like that could be damaged, but it certainly can. Sometimes quite severely!
  8. I don't see how it could be low injection pressure. But I could certainly see it happening with low clamping pressure. I used to work at an injection molding facility. But I will admit it has been a while and my memory may not be too clear. There's normally no reason to turn down the injection speed unless it was mistaeknly set too low to begin with. Low clamping pressure would lead to a gap in the mold surfaces that wouldn't normally be there. Well, it would always be there but the gap would be wider due to the loss of clamping pressure. I've seen it where the material would sloosh out of the mold halves like frosting being squeezed from a piping bag! We would often turn up the injection speed to clear a plugged head in the press but once things were flowing the way they were supposed to be it was set back to the proper setting. But, people are people and mistakes do happen.
  9. It's not just that, but sometimes the kit can be molded well enough but include the wrong parts. I just got a couple of Ford pickup kits not too long ago, a Moebius '65 F100 and an AMT Ford Lightning. The Lighting came with the Flareside tailgate. Obviously too narrow for the Styleside bed on the Lightning. I'm wondering which EFI setup that new release of the Sonoma has now.
  10. I got to see this one in person earlier this evening. I have to say it's just as janky in person as it is in photos. Which I hope was the point, lol!
  11. I like it! I had the Saturn Sky version at one point. I used to have it displayed next to a Testors Chrysler Crossfire. So weird that just a few years ago everybody had a roadster in the lineup and now they're ditching even mainstream cars to build more crossovers.
  12. LOVE it! A plastic kit is one way to find a rust-free 620, lol! For some reason the grille of these trucks always remind me of a '64 Mercury.
  13. I have three suggestions. These are all things I've done to lower this particular kit. 1. De-arch the springs. This used to be done quite a bit in real vehicles so it works just as well on models. I use some heat to flatten the springs. You may need to notch the rear chassis for axle clearance. To deal with the metal front wire axle, I would just cut it and leave just enough to mount the wheels to the axle. 2. Replace the front axle with the one from teh Revell '56 F100. I think the stock version with the red model on the box still has the dropped front axle. Rear would also be de-arched, or you could put the axle on top of the springs. 3. Use the front axle from the Flip Nose street machine F100. If I remember I had to widen the axle for use on the stock truck chassis. This route was the biggest pain and the Flip Noxe axle is a bit on the spindly side anyway, so I'd try something like 1 and 2 before going this route. It was one of those seemed like a good idea at t he time kind of things!
  14. I love it! I just got this kit myself. First kit I've bought in about five years!
  15. Thanks! Maybe if I ever get around to actually building again I can build one even nicer
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