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Everything posted by Metalbeast

  1. Well... Kinda. The Longhorn bed was longer overall. The Ford Super Camper bed was still 8' but the wheel opening was about 10 inches further back than on a regular 8' bed.
  2. I spent 15 years as a forklift operator and let me tell you, you got the aging perfect. Where I worked a brand new machine would look like that in about six months.
  3. Great resto! A buddy of mine had one in the same colors as your model but his was a GMC. it was also a lot less shiny and a lot more rough, lol!
  4. I don't have experience with this seller but I've seen something similar with resin parts whrew the resin is mixed with metal filing. I want to say Model Car garage used to sell things like carbs cast with real metal filing. A somebody who's never gotten the hang of simulating rust with paint I'm intrigued!
  5. Love them all, especially the Firebird. I think I went to high school with that guy, lol.
  6. It is much closer to 1/20 scale than 24. That is a beautiful buildup! Probably better than that kit deserves, lol! You're making me regret giving away the one I had in the 90s.
  7. AMT kits run the full spectrum. Just depends on what era. 90s era AMT was about as good as things got. The older stuff takes a little more effort but you have to consider the origin, the model kit market at that time, and such. I'll say that if an old tool AMT big rig gives you fits then you definitely do t want to try an early Revell or Lindberg either.
  8. All I did was take off the chrome and use a file and sanding to remove the rub strip from the front bumper. I think I used Testors silver enamel with a dull clear coat.
  9. Wow... seamless combination! Everything looks exactly like it belongs. I really like the weathered tone you got on the exhaust system. I may have to take a crack at this combination.
  10. I knew a guy with a Sky and he put all the Opel trim on it. He also had a GTO with all the Holden badges on it. That got sold traded in on a Chevrolet SS which, you guessed it, ended up with Holden badges because I guess an SS alone wasn't obscure enough. I told him he could have at least tried some Vauxhall markings on the SS, lol.
  11. May be a simple model but trucks were simple things back then, too. I love it! The photos look like ones of a real truck!
  12. I love everything about it except the name. Sheila is my ex-wife's name, lol! I passed on this at the hobby shop thinking it was a rebox of the old '56 with opening doors but I might need to check it out.
  13. Thank you! Yeah. I always thought it was odd she ordered it with stuff like the running lights, but not the hitch. The hitch was an aftermarket Reese that didn't look like it had been on the truck very long when I got it. Thanks! I won't drive anything but a lower trimmed truck. I see trucks as work vehicls first and foremost. Maybe I'm old school. I just don't get why you'd want to spend 60 grand on a truck with all the trimmings of a Lincoln when it's just going to get used up and dirty. I still might try that crazy intake, lol! I'd really like to do a model of my '93 with an engine some day. There was no 4.9 six in a model when I built this, but a couple of the Moebius kits have a 240/300 that could be updated to what I'd need. Theoretically at least, lol!
  14. I've worked around rubber and plastic, in some cases rubber/plastic/or silicone with an insert. For example, a rubber donut isolator with a steel tube molded into it. I'm more familiar with rubber as I worked in that side of the industry longer. I've only ever seen the repairs to the molds after the fact. Never saw it while it was being done. Unless you were the diesetter you pretty much weren't allowed into the machine shop. Unless he was OK with you being in there or he was training you. Even the tools for the parts without inserts would wear, but if the operator wasn't paying attention and closed a mold on an insert that wasn't centered. You wouldn't think a solid steel die like that could be damaged, but it certainly can. Sometimes quite severely!
  15. I don't see how it could be low injection pressure. But I could certainly see it happening with low clamping pressure. I used to work at an injection molding facility. But I will admit it has been a while and my memory may not be too clear. There's normally no reason to turn down the injection speed unless it was mistaeknly set too low to begin with. Low clamping pressure would lead to a gap in the mold surfaces that wouldn't normally be there. Well, it would always be there but the gap would be wider due to the loss of clamping pressure. I've seen it where the material would sloosh out of the mold halves like frosting being squeezed from a piping bag! We would often turn up the injection speed to clear a plugged head in the press but once things were flowing the way they were supposed to be it was set back to the proper setting. But, people are people and mistakes do happen.
  16. It's not just that, but sometimes the kit can be molded well enough but include the wrong parts. I just got a couple of Ford pickup kits not too long ago, a Moebius '65 F100 and an AMT Ford Lightning. The Lighting came with the Flareside tailgate. Obviously too narrow for the Styleside bed on the Lightning. I'm wondering which EFI setup that new release of the Sonoma has now.
  17. I got to see this one in person earlier this evening. I have to say it's just as janky in person as it is in photos. Which I hope was the point, lol!
  18. I like it! I had the Saturn Sky version at one point. I used to have it displayed next to a Testors Chrysler Crossfire. So weird that just a few years ago everybody had a roadster in the lineup and now they're ditching even mainstream cars to build more crossovers.
  19. LOVE it! A plastic kit is one way to find a rust-free 620, lol! For some reason the grille of these trucks always remind me of a '64 Mercury.
  20. I have three suggestions. These are all things I've done to lower this particular kit. 1. De-arch the springs. This used to be done quite a bit in real vehicles so it works just as well on models. I use some heat to flatten the springs. You may need to notch the rear chassis for axle clearance. To deal with the metal front wire axle, I would just cut it and leave just enough to mount the wheels to the axle. 2. Replace the front axle with the one from teh Revell '56 F100. I think the stock version with the red model on the box still has the dropped front axle. Rear would also be de-arched, or you could put the axle on top of the springs. 3. Use the front axle from the Flip Nose street machine F100. If I remember I had to widen the axle for use on the stock truck chassis. This route was the biggest pain and the Flip Noxe axle is a bit on the spindly side anyway, so I'd try something like 1 and 2 before going this route. It was one of those seemed like a good idea at t he time kind of things!
  21. I love it! I just got this kit myself. First kit I've bought in about five years!
  22. Thanks! Maybe if I ever get around to actually building again I can build one even nicer
  23. Hello everyone! My personal saga of unboxing and going through my old models continues! This is sort of a replica of the 1993 Ford F150 XL I used to own. I think I built it around 2007. I bought the real truck from Vanderhyde Brothers Ford in 1999 and drove it until 2012. It was a special order, bought new by a little old lady and it had 95,000 on it. I think she traded it in on a Taurus because it was getting too hard for her to climb in and out of a truck. I remember that but I can't think of the salesman's name now. I went through many sets of tires and tuneups, one clutch, a set of front suspension bushings, the rear fuel tank rusted and was replaced, same story for the rear spring shackles. But in all honesty for the amount of time I had it the truck never owed me a dime. The air conditioner still blew cold right up to the very end. Probably the most useful and trouble free vehicle I've ever owned. And this is a former Toyota Camry owner talking! And one of the few I wish I hadn't sold even though it was pretty beat by the time I sold it. Mine had a 4.9 straight six and a five speed stick. Really should have kept it but it was really getting rough. That truck alone pretty much made me a Ford devotee. I said its sort of a replica because its a combination of two looks. Original it had the silver steel wheels and small hub caps. Later on it had some XLT alloy wheels I ran in summer, and a set of Winterforce tires went on the XL steel wheels for winter driving. Before I had those tires put on I had the steel wheels blasted and powdercoated black. I'd use the chrome lug nuts for the alloy wheels and leave the caps of because I thought the truck actually looked pretty good that way! But I've never seen a good set of '90's F150 steel wheels and dog dishes for a kit and just using the nice AMT kit's XLT wheels would have been too easy I guess. but the truck was getting rusty by the end and the powdercoat was getting scuffed. I eventually sold off the alloys and put a set of '92 Crow Vic wheel covers on the original steel wheels just to snazz it up a bit. I used a set from the Linberg cop car. The truck also had a Penda bed liner and plastic covers over the bed rails, along with tie-down eyes in the stake pocket holes. I ended up removing those a year or two after purchase. It also had a set o those lovely Yosemite Sam back off mud flaps. Those got pulled off within a week of me taking it homw. So here is how the truck would have looked in 1999 if it had those covers on it at the time but didn't have the bed liner or covers. I think the color was called Twilight Blue and I'm certain I used Plastikote from a ratlle can. It's the snap together AMT kit with a shortened chassis some parts from the glue kit short bed mixed in where needed. I'm so glad AMT included the cab running lights like my truck had! I also modified the height because I always thought the AMT kits don't sit right compared to the real ones. I had to add the cargo light, and that might have been my first use of a photoeched part. I think it's an old Accupro part. It came on a rubber sheet with no skeleton to cut. Just peel if off and place it on. Nice! I filed off teh side trim and dechromed a lot of the parts as mine was an XL and not an XLT like all the kits are. I think the cab corners and rockers were rusting when I built the model but I'm not much good at making things look rusted, and I wanted the truck to look as good as the day I bought it. Even though it probably only looked that good for roughly a week, lol! No engine or trans but I added a floor shifter from a Ranger and did some slight of hand with a paint brush to make it look like it has a clutch pedal. I couldn't find any 4.9 straight six engines in scale so I decided not to add an engine. I think the interior is the blue plastic from the snap together kit with some dash and door details painted black. I do remember being pretty impressed how close the blue plastic in the kit was to the blue plastic in my real interior. Except this has a metallic tint to it which the real truck did not. I added a tail pipe I made from plastic rod with one end drilled open. The real trck had a Reece hitch so I eventually made one from Plastruct a few years after I built the rest of the model. No idea where I got the Michigan plate but I was still living there when I got the truck so it needed one. Someday I might build another version with an engine this time. Sorry for the word soup here. I have an awful lot to say about this very simple model I guess! I still remember working on this for a few late nights after work, while It's Always Sunny or reruns of Hill Street Blues played on the TV by my work table. This model is one of my personal favorites too. Maybe it's the memories of the real truck?
  24. Hello everyone! First I need to apologize for my photos. I'm an averae modeler and a below average photographer! I'm getting settled into new digs and taking photos of my interesting kits as I come across them. This is my most recent completed model. This was built five or six years ago when the Revell Ford Raptor first came out. So yeah, it's been a while! When the Raptor came out I was hoping for a kit of one. I wasn't holding out hope. I always thought it was weird that in 1997 all the kit manufacturers were tripping over each other to put out kits of the new F150 and the modern pickup truck kits seemed to dry up after that. But anyway. All I remember is that I didn't care for any of the factory colors, so I went with the loudest shade of green I could find. Turned out that was Duplicolor Grabber Green engine enamel. It ended up looing more like Mopar sublime to me but I like it. If I had lots of money and no brains I'd totally buy a brand new Raptor and get it repainted some crazy color. Unfortunately I'm short on the 'lots of money' part. The other part I have in spades! The stickers instead of decals were a letdown but they look good enough on the model I suppose. I really don't understand why Revell does that because the rest of the kit is pretty good even if it is snap together. On the day I bought this kit I bought another with the plan to make one into a standard F150 but so far that other kit is still in its original shrink wrap. I'm no master at bodywork so that one may never get done. The fact it has no engine is fine with me. It looks just as good sitting on a shelf with or without one. It's not perfect. None of my models are. But I'm pleased with how it came out and that's what matters.
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