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PHPaul

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Everything posted by PHPaul

  1. Thanks for the link to the wheels. The front ones would probably work, but a bit spendy, I'd need two sets just for the front wheels. LOVE the buzz saw! What scale is that? Did you scratch-build the saw?
  2. I tried the 12 spoke approach. Drilling the holes in the perimeter of the wheel went well, but there's just not enough room at the hub for 12 spokes of that size. Actually, it looks pretty crowded with 8.
  3. Valid questions, peteski. 1. The model is being built out of plastic so strength is something of an issue. Not critical as there's not much weight involved, but a consideration. 2. That's the smallest plastic rod I have on hand. 3. The wheel rims are only 1/2" in diameter, not sure spoke holes every 30° would leave much structural integrity. 4. I'm lazy and "close enough" is okay most of the time. However, you bring up good points and I may try a 12 spoke version just as an excuse to play with my toys.
  4. I've been noodling how to make the spoked wheels for the thresher for a while. To be in scale, or nearly so, they need to be made out of half inch tubing and have 8 spokes equally spaced around the circumference - i.e. every 45°. The spokes themselves would be .063 diameter. I have a 3" rotary table for my Grizzly benchtop mill, but no way to hold the tubing. I took that as an excuse to buy a 3" 3 jaw chuck that fits my rotary table. Got it on Amazon, and with various discounts it was just a hair over $45. High precision it's not, but plenty accurate enough for model work. Next problem? How to hold the tubing in the chuck without crushing it and still be tight enough to work with. Solution? Turn down a piece of wooden dowel to a snug fit and chuck that up and slip the tubing over it: Then just crank the rotary table around in 45° increments and drill through the tubing and the dowel. Drilling all the way through both sides makes alignment pretty accurate and means I only need to drill 4 holes. Worked pretty darn well after a couple of adjustments to get things lined up. Next problem? How to cut 1/8" wide rings off the tubing after the spoke holes are drilled and have them come out reasonably square and centered. Solution: Another piece of dowel chucked up in my mini-lathe and an Xacto knife in a boring bar holder to part them off. Wicked cool. And the finished products. Now all I gotta do is figure out how to glue them up. I have an idea, if it works, I'll post back with the results.
  5. Pretty much the last of the available real estate was taken up by this sawmill. Good opportunity for some detail work around that.
  6. I'm still adding little details here and there to the farm diorama. I decided some time back that a derelict thresher would look good behind the combine shed along with the dead tractor and the old hay loader. I asked around on a couple of ag boards for someone to give me some basic dimensions of a thresher as I've never seen one in person. A guy from Kansas runs one every year at the local tractor show and was kind enough to hook me up with some numbers and pictures of an Allis Chalmers thresher. As an extra bonus, that fits with the AC theme of the combine and tractor. I used this picture and the 1:1 measurements he provided and used my scale rule to interpolate things down to "S" scale (1:64) I used those measurements to produce this scale drawing with several reference lines. That was transferred to some plastic sheet and cut out with an Xacto knife. Those parts were glued together with liquid Testors, using my 1-2-3 blocks and various magnets to hold things square and in position. I have to use VERY thin sheet to get the curve in the rear housing so I glued some forms on the inside. At this point the whole thing is a hair over 3" long and about an inch wide. I bent up the straw blower pipe by inserting some #12 copper inside a suitably sized plastic tube, heating it up with a blow dryer and bending it to shape. I have tubing in various sizes to do the blower housings, and square tubing for the elevators. The spoked wheels are going to be interesting. Not sure how I'm going to do that yet. The various pulleys I can turn on my mini lathe.
  7. Nice! Creative jigs are a big part of scratch building, always glad to see new ideas.
  8. Thanks for letting me know.
  9. I like the TP tube/paint mixer idea. I too am too cheap to leave a drop or two of paint on the mixer. Besides, it makes it easier to clean.
  10. I don't know how applicable this would be to building vehicle models, but for dioramas and especially structures, it's handier than a pocket on a shirt. You can buy various clamping systems from places like Micromark, but they're way spendy and besides, where's the fun in buying something you can make? Grab a bunch of 10mm round neodymium magnets from Amazon and a few pieces of bed angle cut to various lengths. Drill some 5/16ths holes in the angle, deburr them and press the magnets into the holes. Swipe a cookie sheet from the Cook's stash (you might want to buy her some nice new ones by way of obtaining forgiveness...) et voila', magnetic clamping system for a couple of bucks!
  11. Question - Is the rest of the garage (walls and floor) going to be weathered to match the equipment?
  12. Thanks. Be careful what you wish for... The original plan was a 2x2 foot diorama. That quickly got upgraded to a 2x4 and now it's 4x4. With late Spring here and Summer on the way, I likely won't be doing much until cold weather comes back. I'm hoping to stay at 4x4 and just add more detail and maybe some animation (I saw an arc welding animation that was REALLY cool!) but I ain't making any promises. The thing that attracts me to dioramas is the variety and the "blank canvas" aspect - I can create whatever I can imagine, and there are no plans.
  13. Thanks to the lovely weather (near white-out snow squalls earlier today) I'm spending a little more time on the diorama. I built a shed to store my scratch-built 1/64th combine in and have slowly been detailing around it. The idea well was running pretty dry so I posted on a farming/tractor site about needing ideas for "stuff" to put around the shed. Got a lot of goods ones, many of which I'll act on but the best was to add some weathered signs to the building. Original shed Shed with signs. I snagged the images off the internet, tweaked them to suit and printed them on decal paper. Wasn't sure decals would adhere to wood, but they seem to be fine. Makes a huge difference IMHO.
  14. I'd already ordered the kit, figuring there'd be plenty of generally useful stuff anyway. You were right about the 4wd parts, they aren't much but I can work with them. Transfer case isn't bad, front diff is crude but some fiddling will make it acceptable. The springs are a flat-out joke but I can use the ones from the 50 Chevy kit as it has the straight front axle.
  15. I ordered tires and wheels from Scenes Unlimited. I can probably scratch build or kitbash the diffs.
  16. Well, I'm a couple of wheels short compared to most of you guys, but it satisfies my Need for Speed. 2016 Yamaha FJ09 with a few updates. Suspension upgrade and ECU flash plus various cosmetic farkles. I love the look I get when I roll up to gas up or whatever and peel off my helmet and this gray-bearded bald-headed old fart climbs off that bike...
  17. Yup, that's what I'm modeling. I guess I'll grab the kit and see if it's easier to swap chassis or suspension. I want to stay with the stovebolt 6 and relatively narrow tires that would be reasonably correct for the early 50's.
  18. Has anybody built this truck: Deserter ? I'm thinking of grabbing one to pirate the 4 wheel drive parts from - differentials, transfer case, drive shafts and suspension bits. Hoping to use them on the 50 Chevy project. Don't mind modifying things to fit as long as they are reasonably close.
  19. Has anybody built this truck: Deserter ? I'm thinking of grabbing one to pirate the 4 wheel drive parts from - differentials, transfer case, drive shafts and suspension bits. Hoping to use them on the 50 Chevy project. Don't mind modifying things to fit as long as they are reasonably close.
  20. Gathering parts for my NEAPCO/50 Chevy idea. I'm thinking "military surplus" bar-style tires would be appropriate. Anybody got a source for such a thing? Open to suggestions as to size, but thinking 16/17 inch. I've looked on line, but my google-foo is weak.
  21. Somewhat off the wall question: I see a lot of purple marks on the cage build, both on your example and others. What is that? Primer for the glue? Marks for joint location?
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