62SY4

I believe this is the honest deal. The fall/winter time specials were all March to July 2020 UPC dates. This go around they all looked to be January 2021 UPC dates. My most local store had all the kits shown in the recent posts, where the last blowout we got limited cars (late model 300Ms and curbside Corvettes), even less big trucks but gobs of Lindberg Civil War kits and SNARK kits.

I can't attest to how it will react with either your chrome or the top coat, all you can do is try... Kleen-strip Bulldog adhesion promoter is clear and helps automotive paint stick to just about anything.

Your Fiat dealer may or may not mix on site. Likely not if they don't have a large collision center attached. Assuming no, the can you buy from them is mixed in a big vat, sampled and adjusted, then packaged. Your local jobber doesn't have the tools or time and probably lacks the desire to make it exact, the paint supply shops around here don't guarantee color match. The bigger collision shops all mix on site so they can adjust as they go. These points have nothing to do with 'quality' per se, just without complex automated dispensing equipment any mixing is subject to errors and the smaller the mixed quantity, the worse it gets. It's impossible to get good repeatability and reproducibility 'by hand' and with little volume and no where to put it, it's tough. If I need less than a gallon, my guy mixes in gallon can so he can 'tune' the mix to my standards. Unfortunately unless you are a high volume buyer or have a good personal relationship with the jobber, there is no incentive to improve.

When your local shop packages an aerosol of paint, it's a very small volume of paint that is mixed. Any error, such a one extra drop of one color toner, will have a huge impact on final color. Going into an aerosol, there isn't enough room to correct either. My experience is some guys can mix any color in any volume and get you what you want, other guys will give you a quart of light blue or light yellow when you wanted white. It's partly art, partly science.

Every headlamp restoration kit I have ever seen is just some type abrasive compound. Really expensive for the volume you receive. I was thinking along these lines though, might be worth trying some fine or finishing compound.

According to the listing, it's the original TD painting. It is also listed, i.e. asking for $1995, not sold... It's listed from a zip code that 2Gs is chump change

That makes sense given the oil filter and starter locations, but darn the intake and heads look sbc.

The Revell '37 Ford Convertible as well.. It's nicer than the one I mentioned in the '34 kit above. There is an LT1 in the Boyds Smoothster and Vantastic as well

There is one in the Revell Monogram Thom Taylor '34 Ford Cabriolet, however the starter and oil filters are transposed.

I had that one! Also, not strictly a game, but also had the original Port-a-tree Eliminator for practice.

I wish there was a '98+ ranger... My guess is the market isn't there. I see the '95-'97 explorer, '97 expedition and '97 F-150 selling on the auction site for half of what a typical new kit goes for... That's including shipping in some cases. As other people have suggested the '73-'79 series makes a ton of sense, they were popular their day and popular now and I could see the resin aftermarket supporting them much like in the 1:1 world.

For the rivet counters; the frames are different. '73-'79 2wd frames are 38" wide from the cab back, verses the earlier SAE standard 34". The 4x4 frames get trickier, F100 went wide in '73 but F250 went to 38" wide about half way through the '77 model year run.

Aside from the original AMT issues, there have been several resin re-casters doing the 'unibody' big back window and the standard small window. The 64-66 cabs not only have the relief in the center but there is also a prominent ridge about 1-1/4" above the gutter. The 61-63 roof is a low crown from the gutter to the center.

First factory Ford with a pickup bed and DRW was 1980.

Looks good! The only thing I can think of is the heater box you offer in your conversion is correct for '65-'66... The '61-'64 ones were different, but easy enough to scratch build.