Rbray47

Garwood body is painted and mostly assembled. Weathering started.

I mix Tamiya paints for Chevy orange and Detroit green. I don't even measure. I add the colors into a bottle lid a little at a time until it looks close enough.

That's an awesome build

The wheels are mounted, along with exhaust. I used Vallejo washes and Tamiya weathering powders. I purchased these 3d print wheels on ebay. There were no "inner" rims. All 8 drive wheels had lug nut detail molded in. At first I was a little disappointed but then I realized that's actually a feature. I only used them on the "outer" wheels and used a couple unchromed 10 holes on the inside. The brake drums and the mounted tires hide what they are. Now I have more for other builds. Not sure these trucks were offered with a Cat 1160, but it's all I had that would fit. I did take off the Allison automatic and attach a 5 speed. Speaking of shifting, I may redo the shifter. Its a bent piece of .030 styrene rod. It wont stay in shape well and interferes with the cab closing. Hopefully metal wire will work out better.

Thanks everyone. Yes, I tend to get a build done pretty fast. I took a leave from work to take care of my mom. She has advanced alzheimers, so I build all day while I keep an eye on her. This Kenworth will be build #20 or 21 so far this year.

It closes about as good as my 1:1. Don't remember any issues.

Finally got the cab ready for paint, I think. The frame is shortened and the packer body is started. I left enough room to mount a single exhaust stack and air cleaner. I modified some Freightliner springs and a parts box axle into a single drive rear.

Fallout 4, 76, New Vegas, and a couple of the older Civilization games.

Thanks! It was on the chrome sprue.

Busy morning. I was wet sanding the cab, hoping to get a little primer on today. But, I realized that even though I made the outside of the windshield gasket, there was nothing behind it to hold the glass in. I cut some .010 sheet, glued it in from behind, then cut the center out. It's a little deep, but that's ok, because I don't know what I'll be using for glass yet. I can always add another layer later on. Also did some more fitting with the interior. The seats, pedals, and dash are from a K123. The seats and their frames had to be filed on the sides to fit. The dash had to be cut in a few places and pieced back together.

Those Revell tractors are nice. I just wish someone would market north American sold tractors. Id love to have a Kubota or newer JD. I'd even settle for a RK lol

This is my last finished build. The kit is aptly named, because it was a challenge lol I changed over the front end to the Alaskan Hauler kit's severe service steel nose. The steer floats are a pair Moebius super single rears on widened kit rims. Even though they're engraved 22.5, they fit the Amt 20 inch rims. I added brake lines, hydraulic lines and fittings. Some are accurate, others I just made up. I kept the kit turbo, but swapped the intercooler out to depict a 290 Cummins.

Thanks everyone. Windshield gasket, cab steps, and fenders attached. It's almost ready for some primer. Frame will have to get chopped quite a bit. Also, I bought a set of 3d print 2 hole Budds, and ordered a 5 hole set. Either of those would be accurate and appropriate, as this truck represents a 74-76 era truck.

I got a pretty good deal on the new Amt Ford Garwood kit. After looking over the parts, I decided to do something different. I haven't seen a kit or resin body of a Kenworth L700 Hustler, and it looked fairly easy to scratchbuild. It's mostly square. I found some rough cab size estimates from a brochure scan, converted them into 1/25 scale, and drew them the correct size onto copy paper. Then I cut the pieces out and traced them onto styrene sheet. The cab is layered in places because of the rounded corners, and there's some bracing that the 1:1 probably doesn't have, but I think it'll do. After a lot of super glue and filing, along with a modified Amt Kenworth W series grill, it started to look like a truck. The chassis is from the Alaskan Hauler. I used a few parts from a K123 kit. The interior tub is a mixture of 2 White Freightliner tub extensions and sleeper parts. Not everything is accurate, but at least they work well together.

The body is pretty much spot on. The hood trim is molded as part of the grill, but it's easy enough to cut away.

As long as the steering wheel isn't touching the seat, and auto shifter is in park, I'm good.

That's a pretty good idea.

I like having an engine to mess around with, but I also like the old Amt kits with the simplified chassis. Sometimes all I want to do is spray the frame black and forget about it. Japanese kits tend to be the opposite of what I want, but I still build them because I like the subject matter. I have scratchbuilt entire engines, but it's time consuming and no one will know since the hoods are usually shut. So I get it, especially with modern vehicles, skip that step and still be able to offer a nice kit.

Like I said above, I wait 2 days for Tamiya. However, on the rare occasion I use Testors, I wait at least 10 days. So I guess just test out your different paints and make notes.

My Tamiya tape is about a year old, so maybe I got a good batch. Anyway, I usually use Tamiya sprays, and I wait at least 2 days before taping, and take it off as soon as possible.

I'm curious as well. I use it all the time with no issues.

I use paper towels. Split a towel width wise and twist it into a rope. Works well enough. These logs are heavy, but they're keeping a bead.

I have a couple pics from 2 years ago during the build process. After the black paint, it's hard to get a decent shot.

I've driven them, but never owned one. In case anyone is looking for different ways to build MPC's gmc and c10 pickups, my uncle bought one new in 85 or 86. It had 3 on the tree and a 4.3 V6. 2wd, short bed, no options.