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Mcpesq817

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About Mcpesq817

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  1. Yeah, the hobby paints are a lot more expensive. The Hpiguy on youtube seems to get good results, but I'm not sure how his models look closer up.
  2. Sorry to resurrect this one. I have been finishing up some other builds before turning back to these. I was just looking at the youtube channel for hpiguy, and noticed that he predominantly uses Rustoleum and Krylon rattle cans to paint his cars. Made me thing - would Rustoleum primer be a better barrier for the Zero paints? I never thought about using the rattle cans you can get in Home Depot to paint model cars. I figured the paints and primers would be too coarse, but it looks like that hpiguy was able to get very nice results. Any downside to using those rattle cans? Makes me wonder what I'm doing spending the money I'm spending on Tamiya, Vallejo, Zero, etc. when a couple of bucks at Home Depot might do the trick and I don't have to worry about cleaning the airbrush. Aside from getting the particular colors one might want, do you guys see any issues using Rustoleum and Krylon?
  3. Thanks guys. I read that link and came to the same understanding about the white box version - seems like there should be nothing worrisome about getting the white one? Also, I assume the MCG PE set should work on the white one? There were some comments in the various posts here that made it not particularly clear to me whether the PE set applies across all versions. I'm a little new to this PE thing for cars - much easier with planes and ships where the sets are typically marketed for a particular kit and you don't generally have multiple versions of the kit subject from the same manufacturer.
  4. Hi everyone, I was on Model Car Garage the other day to pick up the PE set for the Accurate Miniatures M8 McLaren, and saw they had a PE set for AM's Corvette Grand Sport. So, did some quick picture shopping and picked up the PE set. Now that I had some time, I was looking the various boxes (the white and blue AM kits, and the Revell blue kit) and the builds on here, and was wondering if any of the three are better than the others? People mentioned fit issues, but I couldn't tell if that referred to any of the particular AM versions or whether Revell cleaned those up. For what it's worth, I was mostly thinking about getting the white version, though the blue one with the hood louvres is growing on me. Also, this might be a shot in the dark, but if anyone has an HRM transkit they are looking to part with, I'd be interested Thanks in advance!
  5. Pipettes are ordered, thanks for the tip! Also asked my wife to pick up some plastic spoons while she was out shopping Dave, what kind of acrylic barrier coat are you using? So if I put down Mr. Surfacer as the primer, what would I put on as an acrylic coat next? I'm assuming you are saying primer, acrylic coat, and then Zero paint?
  6. Bill, really appreciate you taking the time to help me on all this. You and others here have been incredible. Hope I can repay the favor in the future. After watching the videos, those pipettes were exactly what I thought I needed to get. I've been pouring from the paint container into the airbrush cup which can get messy and wasteful as you can imagine.
  7. It just occurred to me that maybe another issue I had is maybe I didn't stir the paint enough, and so I was shooting more thinner than had I properly mixed the paint in the bottle? I'm going to have to find a bunch of plastic spoons and practice it seems...
  8. Sorry, I meant melting/crazing the plastic, which happened with me. Unfortunately, it looks like I can only get small bottles from Hobbyworld USA, so I might try the Mr. Surfacer as primer and go much lighter on the Zero paints base color. I had ordered a bunch of the Zero Paints from Hiroboy, but the shipping was pretty pricey. Don't want to pay that kind of price to just ship a bottle or two of primer. It looks like others have used Tamiya primer which i have so I can always try that out. So I randomly found a video of a guy comparing Gravity and Zero paints. At 22 minutes in, he starts spraying the Zero paints. His first coat seems very light, and then the second he goes heavier than I went - but only waits like 30 seconds to add the second coat. In the span of a total of 3 or so minutes, he applies four coats. Then at 27 minutes he complains about the rough texture. It's hard to tell from the video if he experienced what I experienced, but my guess is probably so. I waited 5 minutes between coats, and I'd say I probably went a little less heavy than his second coat. He calls is orange peel, but I think it's plastic crazing. Then at 30 minutes in, he says he couldn't sand out the orange peel using 2000 wet grit. The video seems a bit misleading in that he clearly isn't following the directions. When you shoot, do you just do light coats as his first coat and wait the 5-10 minutes between coats? EDIT: I just found this guy's video, and don't think I sprayed it any heavier than he did, but maybe I did. Very confusing!
  9. Thanks for that info Bill, really appreciate it! I'm going to buy some Zero primer and try that out. It's possible that the Mr. Surfacer was fine and I just oversprayed, but not worth taking the chance again. I use those spring loaded body stands (I think I have the one from Tamiya), and have a spray booth that I vent to a window. The window has a screen so I've been cracking the window open and venting to the screen, but I might start popping the screen out and extending the venting hose out of the house. I didn't realize how toxic these paints are. I haven't used newspaper, but have used cardboard to line the bottom of the booth to keep things somewhat cleaner. Here's another question if you don't mind. Does the Zero primer run hot? I was thinking of using the Mr. Surfacer to prime and fill, which I would then sand down, and repeat to get as smooth a finish as possible. The Mr. Surfacer is designed to fill minor imperfections, so I figure I can go with that and then spray the Zero primer on top as the base for the Zero paint. Unfortunately, seems like domestically there isn't much Zero primer available except for smaller containers of the micro fill, so I figure maybe I can get away with doing the prime/fill job with Mr. Surfacer and not use a full container of the Zero primer.
  10. Bill, many thanks for outlining your steps, this is very helpful! I did everything you did through step 4 except with I didn't use the Zero primer, I used Mr. Surfacer. Have you used any other primers with the Zero paints? Their website says all primers should be fine, and Mr. Surfacer is a pretty good one in my experience. Another question if you don't mind. When you spray, how far away do you keep the airbrush? And do you do one quick pass per section per coat? I think my issue might have been putting down the first pass, then seeing that I missed a spot, and respraying on top to get that spot. My guess is that was the big problem. Those car bodies are beautiful by the way, I'm hoping to get bodies half that nice!
  11. Fantastic, thank you and everyone else for all the help and guidance with this!
  12. So the first one, which was the worst, finally came out of the bath a few minutes ago (work has been killing me the last two days). The plastic is crazed like everyone thought - the bumps are in the plastic. It's almost feels like a textured finish now, and you can see the effect on the hood. Does it look like I stripped enough paint off? Since I'll have to sand, I didn't think I needed to get it perfect, but given this is the first time I've stripped a body, I wasn't sure if I need to get it stark white or there will naturally be some paint/staining. I used a kitchen sponge and Q-tips to get the paint off, and interestingly, I couldn't get that much off on the underside (which won't be shown anyway given that these are curbside). I guess what I'll try doing is sanding the body down, and then using Mr. Surfacer 1200 primer again which helps fill minor imperfections (actually, I just ordered some of the heavier Mr. Surfacer to get a little help on the filling of the imperfections). We'll see how that goes. And of course, I'll practice on some spoons. In the meantime, I just put the second body (from the earlier pics) in the bath and will let that soak a few days too. This green body may not be salvageable, but the blue one isn't nearly as bad.
  13. Thanks Peter, I've seen that approach used by others and should have thought to do it. The Zero Paint FAQs made it seem like shooting the paint was fairly easy, but apparently not for me!
  14. Thanks Geoff! That's very helpful! Really appreciate all the help guys, thank you! I had picked up a number of Zero Paints from Hiroboy, so would love to be able to figure out how to use them properly. Looks like I should try dropping the PSI on my airbrush, and using very light coats - lighter than I might be used to with Vallejo and Tamiya. I still haven't had a chance to take the one body out of the bath, but hopefully later tonight I can do so.
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