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MarkJ

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About MarkJ

  • Birthday 05/29/1951

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  • Scale I Build
    1/25

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    http://smg.photobucket.com/user/texwardfan/library/?sort=3&page=1

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    Texas
  • Full Name
    Mark

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  1. Pierre, if that 1:1 Grand Sport in the ref pictures is your target then you have it right. I would go ahead and complete this baby. It's going to be awesome.
  2. Wow, Bill. Thanks for the info on parafilm. It did a fine job on your excellent hauler build. Do you have a link or can you tell me where you purchased it. As you can tell I'm yet to find a good masking system.
  3. Totally agree with the one coat of future at the end to seal the decals. I'm really going to try harder to get thinner coats and less viscosity on my next build.
  4. Thanks, Pierre. all I lack is installing the hood and trunk pins, which on this car the ferrules are oval shaped. Why, I don't know. Then I need to future the decal sheets, something I should have done earlier than this. Then I need to decal the model and finally future the model. I see a lot of glaring mistakes that I won't share, but overall, from a distance, I think it will be an okay build. Especially since It's not what it says it is on the box. Watch AMT release a 66 comet as a round 2 kit with nascar goodies in it.
  5. Pierre, the fine and finish tamiya sounds like a good way to polish the clear after the sanding. The compound is much more forgiving then the sandpaper. Will you finish it up finally with some future after the polishing? That hood looks amazing like the body as far as no brush marks. I wish I could get those kinds of results with a brush.
  6. Wow, that color looks perfect and like you said no brush marks. Did you use more reducer? Polishing will be tough with all those nooks and crannys. Have you thought about using one of the polishing compounds out there?
  7. Pierre, whatever you choose for your mix, I'm sure it will look awesome.
  8. Great links. Thanks for those. The car you posted seems lighter in color then the photo of the car in the link. But you know it's the same car, so how does one choose what to use? Thats a great shot of the interior in the link.
  9. Liked the way you fixed that fender flare and I'm glad the #005 car I did, did not have any louvers in the hood bubble. I guess they were added after the Nassau races.
  10. Thanks, Tim and Pierre. Just got through putting the blue streak decals on the tires. Talk about a scary process. You're trying to get this tiny blue circular decal in a ridge on the tire. somehow, I got all 4 tires done without trashing the decals. One of those hold your breath and pray jobs.
  11. No more wips. I finally attached the Body to the frame so just a few more things to do. I'm not going to do some of the detailing under the hood I had originally planned. I just want to finish this thing and move on to the next project, which will have the hood shut and a molded chassis with exhausts removed. I don't want to use my 60 Ford kit as a donor for the chassis. It's going to be a simple build. As they like to say, a shelfer.
  12. Here are some pictures taken back in 1964 at Nassau which was before Sebring but the cars should have been the same color. The second one is from the dock where they were unloaded and still didn't have any numbers or any graphics at all on them yet but its kind ok a dark picture taken in the shade.
  13. Sometimes it's not good to go by a reproduction version of the real car but it's very hard to find good color pictures from back in 1964. But I'm sure whatever you come up with, it will look awesome.
  14. Pierre, it is .25-inch black crepe art tape. The same stuff I use for the seat belts, but it is 1/8 inch wide. hobby Lobby sells it. Thanks for the question.
  15. Chassis looks Awesome Pierre. Engine looks very authentic too. Love the aluminum you used and how you plumbed it. Even has the Traco decal on the valve cover. Perfect job decaling the tires. Those stripes are hard to get on there in a perfect circle. Now comes the best part. Body painting. Can't wait.
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