MarkJ

I hear with the 2k clear you really don't need to polish but also that it is very dangerous to inhale so make sure you are wearing the proper safety equipment when using it.

Kevin, yes, I like them very much. But I only use them on Tamiya clear. I never polish a pigment paint with them. Tamiya clear is a very tough clear, so it is hard to burn through it unless you are using a very course grit like 1500 or 2400. I usually start with 3200 grit and then up from there. You really don't see the magic until you go from 8000 to 12000. Then suddenly it gets mirror like, but you have to be patient with the process.

Congrats on fixing your computer issues and you are right about detailing. Sometimes too much is just that, too much. Just need enough to add some interest. Mark J.

Looking better and better, Kevin. So much better than what out of the box would have been.

That's awesome. The thought of making your own kit is every modelers dream and now you have accomplished it. Can't wait to see your next creation.

Wow, Andrew. You are definitely the king of the very small parts makers. Those parts are so small but yet so accurate. Amazing.

Thanks, Donato. Always appreciate you stopping by.

Sounds good to me. Mark J.

Didn't want to make more work for you, David. But maybe a touch darker wouldn't hurt? Mark J.

Who knew a six banger could look so good? You have your work cut out for you, Andrew.

Just follow your ref pics and you can't go wrong. Just do some work then check the pic, then do some more work and check the pic until they match. Easy, peasy.

Got the upper surfaces polished. Pretty happy with it. You can see the reflection of the desk lamp in the hood and the trunk. The gold is a hint better looking too and the decals should adhere better as well. I painted a bunch of black stuff with a spray can I found in the garage. I believe it got the job done. I still need to polish the sides of the model. I'm using polishing pads dry because they tend to come apart when you wet them. I start with 3200 grit and work my way up to 12000.

Good moves there Kevin. I agree. That nose needed some aero work done to it and what you've done will help immensely.

Thanks, David. That clears that up nicely. Wonder why they used grey. You'd think they would have used a black rubber seal. I'm sure they had a good reason for using the grey. Mark J.

David, you are making great progress. One thing I'm not sure of is the back glass molding around it. Will this be chrome or something else. I must have missed something earlier in the discussion. Model on, I'm liking what I'm seeing. Mark J.

So, Ken. You made your own kit and built it. Very impressed with your results as always. Beautiful race car.

Made places where the huge tires can be mounted to the build and have the correct stance. Trying to make the suspension like the real car would have taken so much time and effort it would not have been worth it. So, I just went for the easy route instead as the photos below will show. I will have no views of the bottom of the car when I post the final photos. They are not necessary. This is a pure shelfer and that's it.

Thanks, Kevin for the advice. I will give a bigger brush a try and see if my results are better.

I think you will have the results you are looking for. Great idea.

Thanks, D.W. for stopping by and sharing your thoughts about the build. Appreciate it very much.

David, Sorry to hear that. Keep us informed the best you can. I'm sure you will come up with a solution for this unforeseen problem. Mark J.

Thanks, David.

Thanks D.W. Sounds like a good idea but I'm never going to have any views of the build from below because there is no engine or anything else under the car except places to hold the tire assembly's and two exhaust pipes so the treads will stay perfect on this model.

David, excellent job on the foglamps. Your attention to detail is evident in every step you take, So the fog lamp's act as fog lamps as well as turn signals? Do I understand this correctly? Mark J.