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StanGlover

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Everything posted by StanGlover

  1. Found some time to get the rest of my spray painting done. I got the white Tamiya primer and Pure White paint laid down on the hardtop. Miraculously no paint bleed under my masking job! Just a few tiny spots will need touch up. I decided it wasn’t worth the time to drag out my airbrush for only the interior color and the axles, so I used Krylon Matte Summer Wheat spray for the interior instead of my planned XF-93, and rattle can semigloss black for the axles. The summer wheat color is not quite as yellow in person as my screen shows, but it’s definitely more yellow than the XF-93 “Dark Tan”. I think it’s still a good saddle/tan color so I’m happy with it. I got my wheel and tire package done, along with the grille and bumper details. Tires were painted Krylon Flat black, with a white Sharpie oil paint pen for the letters. I blackwashed the grille, and filled in the negative space with a Molotow black liner pen. Headlights are Molotow chrome, which will get a dab of clear school glue to simulate lenses. Next up will be detail hand painting for the interior and exterior.
  2. Glad to see you’re still working on it! Made progress on my own ‘75 Blazer Snap, although mine is just box stock.
  3. Decals arrived! I got the panels trimmed out. Will still need some fine tuning but I’m pretty happy with them. I was also able to get some color laid down! Base color came out pretty well. Once it cures for several days, I’ll tape the body off and get the roof primed and painted white. Here’s a taste of how it’s going to look!
  4. Agreed! Round 2 is supposedly reissuing the ‘78 Bronco Wild Hoss kit, which will definitely be a hit thanks to the new 1:1 Bronco. Maybe after that one sells out they’ll reissue the square body Blazer. The recent issue 1st gen Blazer and Jimmy kits are already getting scarce and pricey on eBay!
  5. Thanks for the info! That Testors Bronze caught my eye as a plausible factory ‘70s color so I picked it. I just assumed bronze = bronze 😂
  6. Quick update: I have the spotlight and antenna holes filled. I started off by whittling down some scrap sprue and cementing the pieces into the holes. Once it dried, I trimmed the nubs off, sanded, and then filled with some Mr. White Putty. I sanded all of that down and now have the body ready for some primer! I used some tracing paper and a pencil to make a template for the Gopher Racing wood grain decals. The decals haven’t been delivered yet so I’m not sure how they’re going to look in person. I’ll decide then if I’ll actually use the decals or try hand painting the wood panels. The tires and seats are now permanently glued together and the rest of the parts are prepped for primer. Hopefully I’ll find the time this weekend to get some color laid down.
  7. Upon a second read through, I found the wood grain option! I must have missed it. Looks like it was available without the Cheyenne package, so my initial plan of a Custom Deluxe with the wood grain is a factory possible combination! Definitely moving forward with that scheme.
  8. While researching factory interior and exterior color schemes, I came across the following site with a PDF of the original model configurator for the ‘75 Blazer: https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Blazer/1975-Chevrolet-Blazer_RV_Full-Size.pdf This model kit appears to depict a base model Custom Deluxe trim. My plan is paint my truck as a Custom deluxe with white bumpers and wheels, and the optional white top and two tone body. This option sheet doesn’t mention the wood grain body sides package, or if it was available as an option for the CD trim, but I think I will add it anyway. I’ve settled on my color scheme. Body will be Testors Bronze to depict the “Grecian Bronze” color. Top, bumpers, wheels will be TS-26 Pure White. Grille, mirrors and tailgate accent panel will be TS-30 Silver Leaf. Interior will be XF-93 Light Brown to depict the “Saddle” color. XF-55 Deck Tan will be used for the plaid seat centers, along with Scale Motorsports black/clear Plaid decals. I’ve ordered Gopher Racing wood grain decals for the body sides, but I may try hand painting those panels.
  9. I finally have the paint stripped off! It took several days of soaking in Super Clean and three scrubbing sessions to get the parts clean, or at least as clean as my patience allows. Some light sanding and primer should cover everything that’s left. My next steps are to fill the antenna and spot light holes since I won’t be reusing them (too toylike IMO). I’ll also have to putty several sprue attachment points.
  10. As far as color scheme, I haven’t decided what I want to do yet. Back in high school, my family’s ‘86 K5 was my daily driver so my first thought is a color scheme tribute to that truck. It looked almost exactly like this 1:1 (swiped photo from Wikipedia):However, I’ve already built a few silver and gray models, so I kind of want to do something more colorful, like this 1:1 that sold on BaT recently:I love the white and bright-color two tone schemes earlier Blazers came in so I might do that. Probably not red though, maybe orange or light blue. I’ve also built several red models to date, I want more variety in my display case. Speaking of variety: I love this Woody Cheyenne trim Blazer 1:1 I found online. It has to be a rare option (if it was even factory) and certainly unique. Any thoughts or suggestions for color schemes let me know!
  11. This is my first restoration or rebuild project I’ve done, so I thought I might as well make it my first WIP documented build too! A little background: I was an avid model car builder back in my tween-teen years (early to mid/late ‘00s) but I gave it up once I hit college and started my career. About a year ago now I picked modeling back up as a pandemic hobby and I’ve been fully hooked! This AMT snap kit was one of the last kits I built as a kid. It must have been the 2007 re-issue because I only bought kits off the shelf from Walmart and HL back then, before I had a credit card to destroy on eBay. 😂 Today, I have a growing collection of classic 70s-90s SUV kits, so I decided to rebuild this one to go with them. Since it’s a snap kit, it’s a great candidate for rebuilding, plus these kits are kind of rare and expensive now.Back then, I was exclusively brush painting my builds with Testors enamels. I never used primer, I always used model cement and CA to glue painted, clear and chrome parts (with expected terrible results) and just did basic hand painted details. I’ve definitely come a long way today thanks to YouTube tutorials and model sites like this one! The body paint on my original build was surprisingly smooth and glossy for brush painting, but it definitely looks sloppy compared to my current adult builds. I apparently hastily “twisted” all of these parts from the sprue trees instead of using a knife so I’ll have to clean them up and probably putty the worst spots. So far, I have disassembled everything and the parts are soaking in Super Clean. I broke a few mounting pegs from the suspension and the driveshaft broke from the differential, nothing some model cement can’t fix. Unfortunately, the passenger side taillight lens is missing so I’ll have to come up with a fix for it. Thanks for reading, and I’ll try to keep updates coming regularly!
  12. Ok I am jealous of your shop! All of that natural light is awesome. My basement workspace feels like a black hole no matter how many lights I set up down there 😂
  13. Tony, what do you use for a lighting source for your photos? Both the Mustang and your photography looks great!
  14. Oh wow that’s a major improvement. Have you just discovered the new Pledge floor gloss??? Definitely going to have to get me some of that ceramic coating.
  15. Haha she is in the parts box not assembled. Figurines not really my thing, but if I ever do a diorama I’ll add her to it.
  16. Before I chucked the box, I ran it through Google Translate. Pretty cool technology!
  17. Here’s my build of Academy’s 1975 Hyundai Pony. My daily driver is a 2020 Hyundai Ioniq Hybrid, so when I discovered this kit I absolutely had to paint it to match my 1:1 car! The kit is designed to assemble without any painting so I left everything but the body and seats/door cards in bare plastic. I did zero prep work to the body, just a coat of Tamiya Fine gray primer and two coats of TS-13 Gloss Aluminum. Seats and door cards are just Tamiya Fine Gray primer. This was a super fun quick build, everything fit perfectly with zero flash or fiddling. Hyundai sure has come a long way in the past 45+ years!
  18. Beautiful build! I just finished the same kit literally yesterday! You definitely took yours further than I did with the details, but I agree it was a fun easy build. I’ll post mine once I get some good pictures.
  19. Thanks! I have most of the kits I need already, just need the time to build them. I’m only missing the current generation (not sure if I want the Tamiya GT4 race version or that too-simple Revell snap kit) and a couple facelift years if I decide to get that granular.
  20. Here’s my build of the ‘94 Mustang Cobra Indy Pace car. Overall this is a very well designed kit and it goes together very nicely. The body is painted Tamiya TS-8 Italian Red over red oxide primer. It was polished with Tamiya Finish compound, followed by a coat of Pledge floor gloss. Interior and top are Tamiya XF-93 Light Brown, along with semigloss black accents, with a single coat of floor gloss on the vinyl and leather surfaces. Wheels are TS-30 Silver Leaf. The decals were very thin and fragile but I managed to get them down without any tears, applied before the floor gloss coat. I’m very pleased with this one, and I’m one model closer to my collection of every Mustang generation!
  21. Yeah window sticker decal came with the kit. I had another early 90s kit that came with one, I think it was a Revell/Monogram thing at the time.
  22. Here’s my newly finished Revell 40th Anniversary Corvette convertible! This kit fought me for hours during final assembly but overall I think it turned out ok. The windshield did not fit at all so I had to sand down the dashboard a LOT to get the windshield to sit at the right angle. Also, the hood didn’t want to close all the way because I think I glued the radiator and shroud in wrong. So I had to shave down the under hood structure some. The hood has a slight warp to it as well, solved by some sticky tack to hold one corner of the hood down. The actual 40th Anniversary car is more of a plum color (like the box shows) but this kit is molded in a lovely metallic red that I thought would be a shame to cover up with paint. This is the first molded-in-metallic-color kit I’ve seen without molding flow lines so it was a great candidate for bare plastic. I polished the body with Tamiya Fine and Finish compounds, followed by a single heavy coat of Pledge Floor Gloss. The body is slightly transparent in thinner areas but it’s not that noticeable once it’s together. For the movable body panel lines, I used a .05 Molotow Blackliner pen. I think it’s too thick for scale panel lines but overall I like the effect. The chrome trees in this kit were really badly finished so I stripped it all off and used Molotow chrome where appropriate. The wheels are painted Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf, which is my new favorite color for polished aluminum wheels. Overall I’m happy with this one. I’m probably in the minority here, but the C4 is my absolute favorite Corvette gen as far as looks go so I’m excited to have one on my shelf!
  23. Thanks @polybius for your headlight process! I did a ‘92 Monogram convertible a while back and just painted the buckets flat aluminum, done before I had tried out Molotow chrome. I used Swarovski crystals to simulate bulbs which I think would look amazing with your method. My body clear coat ended up cracking so I’ll have to redo the paint at some point anyway, I’ll definitely try out your method then!
  24. What did you use to paint the headlight buckets? I’ve not had much luck getting 80’s/90’s aero headlights to look realistic but yours look very good!
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