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About Kevinch

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  • Birthday January 22

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    Kevin Howard

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  1. Local - I like it, thanks for the tip!
  2. Thanks David - I will buy what I can from the local HL & even "not-so"-local hobby stores - but I really do want to stick with Tamiya across the board where possible as I know I won't have any compatibility issues. Next choice is Testors, but only for detail items where I can't find a Tamiya color. I have MCW bookmarked; I have a couple of builds planned as "tribute" builds - one a '68 Charger R/T that my dad had for a while (I have that kit); another a '63 Impala SS that my brother-in-law is currently working on to bring back to a primo as stock daily driver (I have yet to buy that kit). I'll want both of those to be sprayed in factory correct colors & will do so after I buy an air brush & do a build or 2 with it.
  3. Hello again, with another "returning to the hobby question". Since coming back from a long, long absence I had no supplies for scale model building - all the way down to glue & brushes. I'm working on AMT's 1:25 1968 Shelby GT500 kit - the one with the green car on the box. I'm not really concerned with 100% realism to the original car; things like painting with the actual colors available aren't really important to me. But I do, within reason, want to do a quality build - something that will look good on a shelf - & this is my "1st attempt" build. So I've purchased a couple of hobby knifes & a bunch of blades, 2 sets of side cutters, a half dozen various tweezers, some cheap clamps, etc. I don't have a local mom & pop hobby shop, the ones that are within 10 miles or so don't really emphasize scale modeling. I do have a Hobby Lobby close to home, that is where I buy most of my stuff. It's a slow process, the money isn't really a problem if I go shopping every 2 weeks or so but I don't want to break the bank in one shot. This brings me to paint. After reading a bunch of posts, I've decided to go with all Tamiya paints for primer, color, & clear - with a possible dab of Testors here & there if I can't find quite the right color in Tamiya's line. I know it's not the most economical solution, but I see vey few complaints on the performance on the product. I don't have an air brush yet, the paint will be rattle cans & brush bottles. I fully intend to buy what I can locally - but if I can't get what I want, what are the good on-line sources to use? "Good" means to me reliable, fast shipping after receipt of order, reasonable shipping costs, etc. - not necessarily the cheapest price. I've started a list & it looks like I'm going to need about a dozen different paints & primers to do what I want to do. I'll want to buy the paint all at one time if I can. Thanks.....
  4. Mark - never mind. I found it & how to use it. I'll blame age & a long, long day.....🥱
  5. Thanks Mark. If I might ask: what is "Purple Power", & where can I find it? Do you just soak the parts & walk away until the chrome & lacquer are gone?
  6. I'm sure this has been asked before but I have looked through pages of search engine results without success. I'm working on an AMT; a bunch of parts are chrome that should be painted. I'm a returning modeler after an absence of more years I want to admit to. Will chrome plastic accept paint with a good bond & good results , or should it be stripped first? And if it should be stripped, what works well to do that?
  7. Thanks folks - I've actually used most all of the suggestions here - except for 1 yet to come. I have the bucket to the point where I get a narrow, straight gap on each side of the bucket that is about equal on each side. I'm going to purchase some thin styrene strips - maybe .015" thick - & shim up each side of the bucket or body - whichever seems to work best - as suggested until the gaps are closed. The help is much appreciated.
  8. Hello all - new member's first post here. I'm returning to scale model building after many years as a mature adult after leaving the hobby in my mid-teens. I picked up the AMT #634M/12 1968 Shelby GT-500 kit to be reintroduced to the hobby. This is the kit with the green Shelby on the box. While test fitting the body/interior bucket/chassis I came upon a fit issue. This kit has a fully molded interior bucket - floor, front & rear, & side panels are all molded as a single unit. When I test fit the bucket into the body (it has 2 holes in the rear that slide over pins in the body behind the rear window), there is a large gap between the top edge of the bucket on the driver's side & the edge of the door where it should mate up. There exists a little play where I can close it up slightly, but not enough the close it completely. Anyone have any ideas on how I might be able to close it up? It looks to be about 1/16" wide. Appreciate any comments - other than scrap the kit.... 😎
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