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Rick L

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About Rick L

  • Birthday 09/04/1954

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  • Location
    Tampa Bay
  • Full Name
    Rick Lemay

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  1. Not that it’s a favorite but I probably use my #11 xacto blade more than any other tool.
  2. That is a great tip. Be careful to test your hot glue first. There’s many varieties. Some are made to hold on extremely well and are a pain in the butt to remove.
  3. Very pretty! I have that kit waiting on a shelf and you have have just convinced me what my next build will be. I did notice a warp issue on the interior bucket on my kit. Could you give me a heads up on any issues you had? Thank you for sharing Asmir.
  4. Jerry I’m sure your wife will appreciate that wrecker model you picked up for her.😆
  5. We used to go trout fishing every year on the Connecticut lakes in New Hampshire and jump over the Canadian border for Laurentide Biere. That, a couple of loaves of bread and a bunch of bologna and we were all set. Unfortunately, Molson stopped brewing it years ago. Coincidentally, that’s around the same time we stopped going trout fishing on the Connecticut lakes in New Hanpshire.
  6. I thought it was one of those soap dispensers you see in restrooms.
  7. The solvents in the “stinky” paints help it adhere to the solvent sensitive styrene where water base obviously doesn’t have that feature. I would suggest solvent based primer for water based paint as example for a two tone paint job. Some tapes may pull the water base paint up from bare plastic.
  8. To prevent orange peel you need better atomization. If using rattle cans, keep them stored at a higher room temperature. Not in a cold basement. Or place them in a hot tap water bath for 15 minutes and be sure to shake it well before painting. Some manufacturers suggest shaking for one minute. The higher temp will increase the pressure and lay the paint down smoother. Do not use boiling water 💦. Also be sure the outside of the can is free of water before painting. One drop of water will ruin the paint job. If airbrushing, either add more thinner, increase air pressure or do both. You need to experiment to get it just right but the idea is to get finer particles of paint onto your model.
  9. I agree with MEK. I use it often. But for the folks who are not familiar with straight MEK, keep in mind, it is pretty hot and can dissolve small styrene parts quickly if not applied carefully. Still cost effective, it also evaporates very quickly and sales are becoming regulated in some states due to the environmental bla,bla,bla. Keep it well sealed and If you’re lucky enough to have a spare refrigerator, it will keep the evaporation process and your wife’s temper down.
  10. That is beautiful. I like the foil work. As far as foils go, nothing beats BMF. The closest thing I have found to it is from Uline that is .001 thick. It works very well for flat and large radius surfaces but any tight corners and fine details will eventually come up. I have not tried the new BMF. I’ve read quite a few complaints about it and hopefully they will go back to their original supplier.
  11. You may want to check with SfanGoch before posting any further.
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