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Dpate

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About Dpate

  • Birthday 05/26/1989

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  • Are You Human?
    Yes
  • Scale I Build
    1/24 1/25

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  • Location
    Laurinburg, NC
  • Full Name
    Dusty Pate

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  1. Well so far with my kit the side skirts only one fits properly, and the other fits but has a gap. So i'm not going to use them at all. I test fitted the front and rear bumper too, but there kinda iffy. Probably will fit better once i dechrome them and clean them up - than do another test fit. When i first opened the box i knew this was gonna be a iffy kit to begin with lol. I mean there is like 5 ejector pin makes under the hood lol, and the chrome is so thick it took me a few mins to find the windshield wipers lol. There so issues here and there on the chrome too along with flash - so I'm glad i know how and love dechroming and rechroming parts. Yes except i wouldn't use it for Mr.color acrylic line up.
  2. Yeah you should see my stash lol i have a stash that would take some folks years to get. Also yeah the flash is pretty bad on the kit even though i've seen worse. I don't use a x acto blade though for most flash or mold lines. Have you seen SMS ceramic scrapper? https://www.scalemodeller.com.au/products/ceramic-scraper its pricey, but it's amazing. Impossible to gauge the plastic when cleaning or any mistake you can make with a X-acto blade. Best part is you can't cut yourself even though it's super sharp. Was you able to fix the roll bar?
  3. Micro mark sells some and AK has some. You could get some TCP global paper paint strainers and just take out the filter part and put on the bottle of paint under the cap.
  4. Oh I'm still learning too man. I haven't been in the hobby that long like less than a year, and i watch, read, and learn as much as i can. I turned my old bedroom at my parents house into a hobby room - like literally remodeled the whole room new flooring etc lol. Dang room looks like a store with kits and paint and legos lol. Anyways this is my next project I'll be doing sometime soon - the 62 ford thunderbird "flash" galore haha. I have the photo etch set for the kit too as i do with every kit i own just about lol.
  5. Yeah there pretty fragile, and with thin coats yeah you'll burn through pretty fast especially if your clear coats are thin too. But if you burnt through the clear too the color coat than that tells you your clear coats where too thin. You can burn through clear coat fast too, but not that fast unless you're really giving it the grit lol.
  6. Yeah those checkerboard seats would of been done with this top part
  7. That's beautiful. I just wanna jump in the picture and go for a ride bro.
  8. Yeah that looks great man. I can tell a big difference from your last picture.
  9. Yeah stuff is amazing. It's almost exclusively the only thinner i use lol. I do also have mr hobbys rapid thinner which is great for metallic paints and flat paints.
  10. You should ditch the rubbing alcohol and get some mr hobby leveling thinner. https://spraygunner.com/gsi-creos-mr-color-leveling-thinner/?sku=T108&gclid=Cj0KCQiAuP-OBhDqARIsAD4XHpf9mUZVLEco-G7H5ziXyf6gBHGJodkjyuQHTojDbsQ5mWD-jBPT0Y4aApQdEALw_wcB
  11. Yeah Mr hobby leveling thinner is amazing. I got 2 big bottles of it lol last a long time. There rapid thinner is good too its for flats, and metallic paints.
  12. You should primer because Mr. Hobby is a lacquer and especially gray to check for anything body related that you may of missed from clean up. I don't know have that color so I'm not sure if it's a light or dark green, but the basecoat color of the primer will affect the shade of the color coat. White primer will make the green brighter and pop more so than a gray or black primer those will just make the green darker. Can't speak on there clear coat stuff, but there primer and paint are fantastic stuff.
  13. I do know with say tamiya X series paints pretty sure the same with there LP range anything gloss color wise needs to be thinned properly and sprayed at low PSI. I remember when i did some side view mirror after the 3 pass with Tamiya X-1 black the gloss just appeared smooth as a babys bottom and mirror finish no orange peel nothing show room quality gloss on side view mirrors LOL. But i mainly use basecoats like scalefinishes on bodies, and never have orange peel. The orange peel will come from the gloss coat 2K or whatever you like to use, because if 2K especially isn't thinned right or sprayed too low of a PSI and heavy coats you will get orange peel. I do all body painting and gloss coats with a procon PS-290 with fan pattern cap, and everything else i do with iwata eclipse i upgraded too a .5 needle setup. There is one trick i read about for lacquer paint like mr hobby is if you get any orange peel just spray lacquer thinner over the base coat and it'll self level the orange peel out.
  14. Seen this kit at michaels and seen it was molded in red and instantly put it back on the shelf lol
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