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Dpate

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Posts posted by Dpate

  1. On 6/22/2022 at 11:33 AM, DanR said:

    I've seen the Mr. Surfacer primer around, but I was hoping to find a larger can of something that is maybe less expensive, or costs the same but goes a lot farther.

    Than I'd give hobby titan a try.  400ML can for around $16 and it dries and self levels and sands beautifully.  I love there matt black primer i will usually use that for chassis and such because the finish is that nice.  It's more expensive than Mr hobby and tamiya primers, but you get 400ML compared to 170ml or less for a couple more bucks.

  2. Never used those clears before as i use 2K clear.  Unless you lay down 3 coats of perfect clear you'll have to sand.  How much sanding you have to do depends on how many imperfections you have in the clear.  If you lay down a perfect clear coat you could go straight too polish and wax and be done.  I would use micro mesh starting at 6000 because below that is basically 1500grit and below.  You could start with 2K grit from 3M, than 3K grit, and than 5K grit if needed.  Good quality compound, polish, wax, and you're golden.  Even with clear in rattle cans the methods are still the same though.  The finer grit you start with though is less work you got to do.  Start at 2K grit(Go to 1500 if needed), 3K grit, 5K grit, and if you want you could than go 6K, and 8K from micro mesh, and by that time you could probably skip compound and go straight to polish and wax.  

    • Like 1
  3. 2 hours ago, Classicgas said:

    Here we go again. That Chevy is a very old tool. There is no comparison to modern revell kits. And for what it's worth, with patience and tlc, that kit can be done quite nicely. No one seems to want anything but shake and bake. Might as well just buy a diecast if you don't want to invest a little time into building a miniature.

    I don't mind little work here and there, and for what i paid for the kit it should of been much better molding than what i got old or not.  The worst flash I've ever seen on a kit so far, dents in the body,  even the hood had major gaps etc etc.  It's not worth the effort when there are better versions of the same model lol.  I'll use the kit for testing paint on and etc.    Also saying saying "invest a little time" is a understatement lol.  I'm just not going to torture myself like that and if that doesn't make me a skilled modeler than so be it.  I rather invest my time in other skills in the hobby than waste my limited time on a box full of badly molded plastic that they even had the audacity to release.  

    • Like 1
  4. 2 hours ago, Dave G. said:

    I don't care about tons of detail etc but how bad do those body side panels actually fit ? My very serious lady friend ( probably gonna end up marrying her) believe it or not wants a "first build" pink 1950's era Caddy hardtop to build and I don't know of any other from 53-57. I'll buy the kit for her if it's not outrageously terrible to fit. And of course help her with it.

    I barely remember this kit in Revell that I did myself decades ago.

    Don't know about that one but i can tell you DON'T BUY the 57 chevy bel air that just brought out recently.  It's the worst excuse of a kit I've ever seen lol they should be ashamed of even releasing it.  I'll never buy anything else from them even if it is a re release.  

    • Like 1
    • Sad 1
  5. 10 hours ago, olddude55 said:

    I've used several bottles of Super Primer before the batch that arrived about 10 days ago.  It always smelled and acted like a lacquer primer.  Worked really well.

    I've also had great success with Scale Finishes Super Clear enamel.  It dries hard enough to polish the day after it goes on.  

    Right now, I'm working on an old Revell '62 Lancer, decided to try Scale Finish enamel instead of lacquer.  The paint dried to the touch faster than, say, Testor's enamel.  Whenever I work with enamel paints,  other than the Super Clear, I let the model sit for a few weeks before I mess with it again.  The Scale Finish enamel color is harder than Testor's would be at this point.  Not tacky in the least, but still not ready for the polishing kit.  Dunno, I consider this normal for most enamels.

    The latest batch of Super Primer is another animal entirely.  It went on sticky and stayed sticky.  It was almost like what I'd get if I tried to use Testor's enamel to paint whitewalls on a tire.  Didn't smell like lacquer, didn't act like lacquer.

    Later on today, I'm going to shoot an email to Scale Finishes and ask about this.  I don't want a refund, I've done so well with SF product over the last year, just want to alert SF to the problem.

     

    Update:  Got a reply from Jason at Scale Finishes.  He recommends very thin, light coats with ample drying time in between.  At some point, I'll give it another try.  Nothing to lose since it strips off easily.

    There's better primers available than have to do all that.  

  6. 5 hours ago, landman said:

    Gravity colors appears to be temporarily out of business. Anywhere else someone can look for accurate color paints?

    I think you're talking about the USA version of gravity colours and if they are than it's about time.  Gravity colours spain is the one you want. 

    • Thanks 2
  7. So the kit I'm working on is a "Test" kit that I'm trying alot of different products on.  This product I've had for awhile and i think it is fantastic.  Basically lay it down put your clear or photo etch down and it'll dry clear in 6 hours.  I usually let it dry for awhile and than start using water to clean up around the edges.  If you wait full 6 hours its a little tougher to remove, but all it takes is water to remove and can be thinned.  Here's a few pics and yeah i need to clean up my desk lol.  Yes i know there is canopy glue and other great products out there, but i figure i'd mentioned this one.

     

    IMG_0451.jpg

    IMG_0448.jpg

    IMG_0447.jpg

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    IMG_0450.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. I  own it but haven't used it yet had got it free with a order.  I love there paint, but i wont be buying the enamel base again. The base coats are fantastic though perfect for 2K clear coat.  Bought chevy engine orange enamel, and it was still tacky after 3 weeks and that's even after being baked for few hours after first painting. It's actually still tacky as of today too so i don't know what went wrong.  Maybe i sprayed it wrong?  About your question though  never had that issue with any primer I've ever used.

  9. 11 minutes ago, Bill Eh? said:

    With kits of this vintage, you have to ask yourself which is more important to you, the journey, or the destination. For me it's the journey or the process of building. For others it is all about the destination or final product. These are not always mutually exclusive. Sometimes you have both, sometimes not. LOL

    That's what i was gonna say lol.  Sometimes the journey and destination wont be good at all.  Sometimes the journey is good until you realize you hit a roadblock and no matter you do trash is trash, and sometimes the the journey is awesome along with the destination when it all comes alive. Especially when your 1/24 or 25 scale car has a better clear coat than your 1:1 haha.  

    But seriously though i love this hobby and what it's all about, but if something is trash it is what it is i keep some parts and trash the rest or use for test dummies for paint.  I wont ever let a kit make me quit the hobby.

    • Like 1
  10. On 5/27/2022 at 4:04 PM, iamsuperdan said:

    Stopped by a buddy's shop today to drop off our e-Transit van for some graphics.

     

    As always, he had a couple of interesting things in for some work.

    20220527_111509.jpg

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    The shop does normal mechanical repairs, but also does full on customization and restoration on anything, plus graphics & wraps, plus detailing, plus classic vehicle sales. I enjoy visiting. :)

     

    That stang is nice but that charger is BEAUTIFUL!!!!!!!! 

  11. Got to love kits like this and the folks that support kits like this cause that's what makes them "real" modelers in there in head.  $15-$20 kit sure acceptable for its age etc and not this specific kit, but when they reissue junk and slap a $35-$40 tag on it than yes the complaints are valid and justified.  Like saying the OP might be in the wrong hobby cause he says the kit is junk is crazy.  But to each there own if you if you wanna take the time to modify or retool a kit to build it as its suppose to be than you do you.  Lot of us aren't going to waste that kind of time or effort or paint or materials to do so cause at the end of the day it's just plastic, and there's better kits to put all said materials and effort into.  It's not that alot of kits are old and or bad, but the prices aren't reflecting the quality we're getting.  But i guess be happy and except what you get long as we're still getting kits as old as half the members here, and this is why I've never gotten this kit even when its at hobby lobby with 40% off sale.  

    But classicgas you did do the kit justice and i respect that so hats off to ya.

    • Like 1
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