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Everything posted by Dpate

  1. I wouldn't pay that kind of money for any car lol.
  2. I always cut off parts from the tree before priming or painting. Most folks usually start with the body because it's what usually takes the longest because that's your bread and butter of the whole build honestly besides interior. I usually work on the body while working on the chrome trees like dechroming etc.
  3. Sweet! I've been keeping a eye out on this topic for awhile. I'll eventually make me a order directly from BMF themselves instead of ordering from random places with old stock.
  4. If you want "cheapest" you would have to do ebay and get lucky finds or bids. Model round up isn't the cheapest. Hobby lobby isn't either unless they have the 40% off sale. Plaza japan is the best for tamiya, aoshima, etc cheapest but shipping can be killer. Hobbylinc isn't the cheapest per say either. Hobby town if you have one isn't the cheapest either lol. Megahobby is better than model round up when it comes to getting product faster and cheaper. There is no BEST paint it's all subjective. Everyone can give you brand names of paint, but you'll have to ultimately see what line of paint works for you. Unless you wanna be like most of us and have tons of paint from tons of different brands.
  5. Yeah i was gonna tell you that it could be adjusted but he beat me to it lol.
  6. Oh i wont. I ordered quite a bit off the site along with the Moebius prostar & lonestar PE sets. Love big rigs. That's why i play the PC game american truck simulator. It's the realest and closest I'll get to driving a big rig lol.
  7. I own the regular tamiya cement and both extra thin and quick setting version of tamiya. The glue isn't meant to replace CA glue for everything. It's suppose to be used on parts like engine halves for example that allow capillary action or any regular part that can easily allow capillary action It's not a one & 4 all type glue. If you're putting it on two separate parts and than putting both parts together? It'll work, but not to it's fullest. By the time you put the brush back into the bottle most of it will have evaporated off the parts lol. It has it's place for certain situations just like thin, medium, thick CA glue, epoxy, etc. I wouldn't use extra thin cement to glue down seats into a chassis, but i would use medium CA glue like zap-a-gap or starbound for example to do that. Everybody should have multiple types of glue on there workbench, because they all have there place and time. Tamiya extra thin quick setting cement is especially useful to use on broken small parts instead of CA glue. I've had kits come in with tiny broken parts and after holding the tiny part with a good set of tweezers and while holding it where it broke and than just a touch of quick setting cement it'll look like it was never broken. Capillary action is the key and even regular thin CA glue will work the same way and using a glue looper for a cleaner job.
  8. I recently just picked up this kit from AMT. Beautiful PE, and thanks to you I've spend $120 on there site lol.
  9. Maybe i just get unlucky with alot of kits and get lemons lol. I'm not trying to sound whiny or anything like that cause trust me i LOVE this hobby (Can easily show proof of that). It's just i expect good detail and fitment etc if i'm paying $35+ for a kit. I don't mind little clean up here and there or cutting here and there or filling and sanding etc - but if the kit has horrible fitment issues, and hardly any details, and more flash than parts than yes I'm gonna be annoyed and probably trash it. I know every company has there amazing kits, good, and bad kits. Like this one tractor kit i own. Beautifully detailed etc worth all $90 i paid for it. But than you have this trash lol that i went into with high expectations and was disgusted with. Misaligned parts, fitment issues, etc maybe i got a lemon? But for $36 there shouldn't be ANY issues at all far as fitment goes. Drive shafts were either to long or too short, and had some parts molded wrong.
  10. I don't do tanks from tamiya just there cars and bikes. I do a bit of everything from every company. Just I'm not gonna spend days and weeks and waist my time and materials if i know a kit is gonna be barely subpar or janky. I understand subject matter, but quality is important to me too. I don't like wasting money on trash. Subpar is fine too because there are great subpar kits, but the price doesn't reflect the product regardless of subject matter. I've spent over $100 dollars on alot of kits, but there fantastic kits especially alot of the big rigs i own. Like i hesitate when i buy a AMT kit, but i don't hesitate when i buy a tamiya, hasegawa, aoshima, mobies, trumperter, meng, and few others. Like i just bought the atlantis release of the 57 chevy bel air, but i heard it was complete trash. So i'm currently trying to sell it because i don't wanna open it and waste my time with it when i already know it's bad because of what i've been told. I guess my expectations are higher than most in the hobby, but if you go into it with low expectations it wouldn't be so bad i suppose lol.
  11. Yeah i know it's just fruitful thinking. But i do know my hobby will change no so much with paint, but with kits. I'm not gonna $45-$50 for basic AMT kits that are sub par. Regardless if I'm one in a million. But i continue to buy hasagawa, tamiya, and the like because quality reflects the price.
  12. What you want for painting inside for the best color is 5000K 95CRI or higher. As an example down below. But kelvin doesn't matter if your CRI is horrible. https://store.waveformlighting.com/products/d50-5000k-t5-led-linear-light-fixture-for-color-matching-iso3664-2000
  13. Hobby or not it does matter on all fronts. Same thing happened with wood and people still bought all the trash and said nothing about the crazy price increase. If no one speaks up every company out there will continue to charge what they want because" gas prices, covid, yada yada".
  14. I had spare filters for one of those paintbooth dunno if i still have them. I ended up building my own booth and i use 12x24 filters you get from lowes. You can also buy pinky filters from amazon etc and it does the same as the blue filters. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018UWQVR0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B018UWQVR0&pd_rd_w=Bh01l&pf_rd_p=49ce9e12-f1ff-4df5-8538-a749372f4064&pd_rd_wg=n7mqF&pf_rd_r=RESRSMNV4N8CQ288Y3W7&pd_rd_r=1653f6a9-a6fa-4414-a181-3488717c86e5&s=lawn-garden&smid=A1ZBBCYRG2UEM8&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjgxNk9LSlkzODVQJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzE5MzUyMU1YWk9YVTZQSkE3NCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTQ1MzI1MzJMTkZEQ1hURDVDSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= This on ebay is the blue 15 ft roll for $16 free shipping https://www.ebay.com/itm/254854132822?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1eInzdNCrTqm092Q0Y4r4Mg7&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=254854132822&targetid=1599090334937&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9010039&poi=&campaignid=15275224983&mkgroupid=131097072938&rlsatarget=pla-1599090334937&abcId=9300697&merchantid=115331122&gclid=CjwKCAjwjtOTBhAvEiwASG4bCGZyR_wmuSd8MOvqOGlEJWk8G5rFT4WucG6IghxZGPetUEZDStscBRoCkCYQAvD_BwE
  15. I just checked scale finishes and most are still $9.99 for basecoat and $11 for enamel. Most are gone up to $11.99 for basecoat, even though before all this most were that price anyways depending on the the year make. Even if all of the basecoats go up too $11.99 that's not that big of a increase for 2 oz of paint - especially considering gravity colors is $5-$6 for 1 oz and MCW always costed more than scale finishes. I'd gladly pay $12 for 2 oz of factory color airbrush ready paint than pay for a cr@p can of rust o at wally world lol. EDIT: Def depends on make and year. 1960 chevy colors are $12.99 instead of $11.99 All engine colors are $12.49 and basecoats $12.49
  16. https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/tamiya-enamel-paint/ https://www.super-hobby.com/catalog/Tamiya-100818.html I had ordered mine from sunwardhobbies while back. I can't speak on super-hobby, but you got ebay too even though there super over priced on there. He's how i found out where to order them from. On sunwardhobbies make sure to change from CAD to USD dollars to see actual price you'll be paying. They have low stock too.
  17. Yes 20 PSI is a good starting point. My range is from 15-30PSI. It all depends on your setup, and what i mean is what type of brush and paint you're using. Most common brushes are gravity fed and siphon. Siphons usually use higher PSI because you're pulling paint from a jar so you'll see PSI from 30-35 on those. Most ready to spray paints like MRP, Scalefinishes, MCW, etc typical starting point is 20PSI. Tamiya paint in the jars properly thinned can be shot at 20PSI no problem. Usually paints like your metals like chrome almost any chrome paint will be shot at around 10-15PSI or higher depends on setup. There is no set it and forget it number unless you know your setup and what PSI works for you.
  18. I have a few bottles of those. Semi gloss black, chrome silver, etc
  19. Sprue goo would work good too. I would def practice on a salvage kit before attempting on a good kit.
  20. This is super dope. He makes it look so easy, but this may be a new skill to learn in the hobby.
  21. They should of just sold 2 versions like my favorite company CRC does with brakleen. The red can = The BEST and the green can = Hot garbage so it can be sold like in Cali.
  22. Might have to try one of these out. I still have some pic-n-sticks from micro mark that i paid $15 for lol.
  23. Nice thank you! Gonna have to go grab a pack or two from ol wally world.
  24. Word! That's all i use really is MCW, Scale finishes, tamiya, mr color, and some others. I actually own a can of testors that i got cheap but never used lol.
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