Casey

Hart's Parts does: https://hartspartsresin.com/product/duster-dart-hood-scoop/

The official Revell instruction sheets pages (uploaded in .PDF format) are still viewable, but you need to manually change the four digit suffix in the part number in the url as needed. For example, here's the instruction sheet link for the Revell '72 Olds Cutlass Supreme Custom 2'n'1, kit number 85-4275: http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-4275.pdf For the '85 Oldsmobile 442/FE3-X Show Car, kit #85-4446: http://manuals.hobbico.com/rmx/85-4446.pdf

There are multiple sources for instruction sheets, and there has been a post pinned in the Links, Advertisers and Web Sites section for almost five years now:

I'd suggest you do some online research if you haven't already, and find out which material the supercharger case and front and rear covers were made from. That way, you know which metal finish to paint it, and you can apply weathering techniques afterward. Use this to find all of the posts on weathering techniques, as there are quite a few which should provide helpful information:

Look here: http://modelkitreviews.proboards.com/thread/125/amt-6563-1957-chevrolet-bel If you want the actual instruction sheet to have in hand, PM me your address, please.

Why haven't you gone through the effort yourself to find that info?

Only if the stock wheel covers/hubcaps you desire are on their own, dedicated runners, could it be done . These new wheel sets are in effect all-new mini molds, with their own separate runners surrounding all four wheels, and not an insert nor an integral part of a larger mold base. Below are the new parts which Round2 created for the mot recent reissue of the (now-ex) Lindberg Dodge 330 Sedan kit, showing how the dog dish hubcaps and steel wheels are paired together, as are the chrome "mag" wheels and wheel backs. The wheels sets would be easy to separated from the runners by cutting the fan gates, making them viable as a separate parts pack offering:

Good reference for the various terms involved with injection molded parts: http://www.nttd-es.co.jp/products/e-learning/e-trainer/trial/en/mold/kiso/sample/step3/runner.htm The below top image shows: 1) The sprue is only the channel into which molten plastic flows and enters the mold 2) The runners are what distributes the molten plastic to each individual part after it enters the mold 3) The gate is the entry point from a runner to each individual part Below you can see what remains of the sprue, circled in red:

How do you know "he's" a man? The seller (and many buyers) may not be aware this kit is going to be reissued at this point, too. Folks here have the ability to be more aware of what's coming down the pipeline if they wish to be, but the general model buying public, not so much. There might be things about an original issue kit which is more desirable to a buyer than a reissue, so even if a reissue is available for $30, it may not matter to a buyer seeking an original kit. Not everyone buys a kit to build it.

Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks for the clarification, Tim. Hopefully the images of this kit's mold posted on Instagram last year by Round2 was a hint of things to come.

It's a "refreshment bar", according to the instruction sheet, shown here: I don't recall if this was posted earlier in this topic, but the refreshment bars are mentioned in this 1961 AMT ad::

For a vintage, annual AMT '67 Impala, or the '90s era modern AMT '67 Impala? If it's the latter, PM me your address, please.

I think Gary means the original, '60s issue Revell '57 Chevy Bel Air, the kit with the opening doors. Here are the wheel parts in kits H-1284 (1963) and H-1371 (1973):

That makes sense. I know the overly thick wheel discs are a snug fit on the wheels and stay in place without a need for any adhesive, but it does makes sense to glue the sub-assemblies together, then change them as as desired. The blunt end of the trans tailhousing and molded in driveshaft would've made swapping engines much simpler, too.